...and doesn't stop unless you run out of water and/or gas...

~egon

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One thing I learned is to never try to hand-nail Hardie products. I used the exact nails specified by Hardie, and the soffit panel is too hard for the nails to be hand-nailed. I ended up using siding nails on it so I could use the nail gun.

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What nail gun did you use a framer? Or a finisher? What size siding nail? My gun is a plastic collated, seems the only siding nails I see are coil.

I'm considering using hardie on my shed build, to match the house. But it's pricey and was wondering how easy it is to work with. I notice you have the little spacer/guager tools to align and hold the next row. I was hoping to do without them as I saw they are like $70 for the pair... But it seems it would be a PITA to level, space and nail without a helper. How much do they overlap?

I only have two walls that are 7W x 8H and the other two are 8W x 8H, one having a 36" door.

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One thing I learned is to never try to hand-nail Hardie products. I used the exact nails specified by Hardie, and the soffit panel is too hard for the nails to be hand-nailed. I ended up using siding nails on it so I could use the nail gun.

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What nail gun did you use a framer? Or a finisher? What size siding nail? My gun is a plastic collated, seems the only siding nails I see are coil.

I'm considering using hardie on my shed build, to match the house. But it's pricey and was wondering how easy it is to work with. I notice you have the little spacer/guager tools to align and hold the next row. I was hoping to do without them as I saw they are like $70 for the pair... But it seems it would be a PITA to level, space and nail without a helper. How much do they overlap?

I only have two walls that are 7W x 8H and the other two are 8W x 8H, one having a 36" door.

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Framing nailer with .113 ring shank nails. I would prefer 2" nails, but my nailer has a minimum of 2-3/8".

I find Hardie very easy to work with, but the circular saw blade is $50. I use a masonry jigsaw blade for finer cuts, where necessary, like notching. The Gecko Gauges are worth every penny because they make it SO EASY. When I re-sided the front of my house, I did three rows before stopping to go buy them. The overlap is adjustable with them, but I use the Custom Colonial with a 6-3/4" reveal and 1-1/4" overlap.

Your project is easily a one-day project that could be done by yourself with the right tools.

Just finished my spray foam insulation. The best control over temperature of the product and the surface is in the middle of the night, so I started spraying at 4:30 am. It took a little over an hour. I still have some product left in the cans, but tried to use as much as possible on the ceiling.

I found the Foam it Green DIY system to be a lot more difficult to use than I expected. The spray nozzles clog and sputter relatively quickly, which makes the whole thing a hot damn mess. I would also recommend a full face mask if you have a beard, but soap and water cleanup with hot water is more effective than I thought it would be.

Here are the pics. I will post more commentary after I've had some sleep.

A $50 blade to cut hardie? Will a regular blade not work?

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A $50 blade to cut hardie? Will a regular blade not work?

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They could, but they will dull quickly.

Would you recommend it for DIY insulating a large garage - mainly the ceiling?

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Would you recommend it for DIY insulating a large garage - mainly the ceiling?

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Fife, I definitely would!
But like I informed RTT on the other foam insulation thread, be sure to follow the video directions for overhead spraying to eliminate the issues RTT noted that he had:

http://texags.com/forums/61/topics/2633644

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Oh crap RTT, didn't realize you were going to be spraying overhead and evidently you didn't watch the video specifically for overhead spraying.

For overhead spraying, you do not use the a fan spray tips, just the mixing tips, or they clod up quickly as you appear to have experienced. Plus when ever you are using the fan spray tips, be sure to squeeze the handle fully engaged as you're spraying and if you stop spraying for more than 30 seconds, you're supposed to replace the fan spray tip for proper operation. Mind you, I've exceeded he 30 seconds a few times with no problem.

It's times like this when you are having issues, you should call the 800 number they provide to answer any questions or concerns you may have. See the video below:

https://www.sprayfoamkit.com/videos-a-how-tos/overhead-project

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You guys that have used the spray foam kit, how thick does one pass of foam expand to?

I used that same kit 2 years ago to insulate a vaulted ceiling in my den and after 2 coats it seems the final thickness ended up being about 2.5 inches. I was hoping that doing 2 coats would fill the depth of a 2x4 bay.

I have been wondering since then if I did it wrong, it seems to be doing it's job though.

No, that's about right if you're using the fan spray tips, but it all depends on how fast you're moving the spray wand. More so, if you're just using the mixing tubes only.

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You guys that have used the spray foam kit, how thick does one pass of foam expand to?

I used that same kit 2 years ago to insulate a vaulted ceiling in my den and after 2 coats it seems the final thickness ended up being about 2.5 inches. I was hoping that doing 2 coats would fill the depth of a 2x4 bay.

I have been wondering since then if I did it wrong, it seems to be doing it's job though.

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I didn't get anywhere near this yield, but that's probably because the temperature of the surface was probably close to or at 80 degrees. My only alternative would have been to wait six months.

Are you done yet?!?!? I want to see how it turned out.

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Are you done yet?!?!? I want to see how it turned out.

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Ditto!

No, not yet, but it's getting there. I just haven't gotten around to taking some pics recently.

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Are you done yet?!?!? I want to see how it turned out.

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I got around to taking some pics today. Life has been in the way, so it's not done, but close. I hate that I started putting up trim before it was taped & floated, but I had to do that for the appraisal for construction funding. It had to look mostly finished.

Before closing up the laundry room:

After:


Now onto the pantry:



I have free-standing racks in there now, but eventually I am going to install a better shelving system.


The last thing you saw in the mudroom/laundry was insulation. I've got everything closed up now.






Another look at the floor. I did interlocking vinyl tile.


I'm going to put base cap on after I texture and paint, and the trim around the one window and door has to be custom cut from a single piece since they are close together and the style I'm going for doesn't normally allow for overlap.

You're brave for putting up the trim and flooring before doing the drywall work. I'm nowhere near that neat.

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You're brave for putting up the trim and flooring before doing the drywall work. I'm nowhere near that neat.

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It just means lots of tape, paper, and plastic.

Ditto Fife's comment...I don't have the patience to go that route!

Looks great...looks like we're running neck and neck on progress with our jobs...I'm trying to get mine done to be able to move into the house before the end of the year. Shooting for Christmas if at all possible.

What baseboard material are you using? Looks like what I'm wanting to use...where'd you get it? What are the dimensions?

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What baseboard material are you using? Looks like what I'm wanting to use...where'd you get it? What are the dimensions?

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I'm using 1X6 primed finger joint boards from HD. You have to be careful not to grab MDF boards, though. Employees often stock them in the wrong bin. Finger joint boards have squared edges; MDF is rounded on two sides.

HD also sells 1X5 finger joint boards if you want something a little lower profile. The 1X5 is great for door/arch jambs.

Made some more forward progress today by starting the cabinets for the laundry room. I did that thing where I forget to take pictures at various stages of the process, so the pics get right to business,

I started by removing some of the floor. I don't want flooring going under the cabinets because it makes it more difficult to remove at a later date if I decide to change the floor.


I built a pedestal for the cabinets so the base moulding can wrap around it.


I'm using off-the-rack wall cabinets because I lack the patience and skill to build my own. There will be another row above these.




One piece of advice if you ever have electrical installed in a place you think you might possibly want cabinets in the future, use adjustable boxes. They will make life a lot easier.

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One piece of advice if you ever have electrical installed in a place you think you might possibly want cabinets in the future, use adjustable boxes. They will make life a lot easier.

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These also works great where you plan to install back splash!

Thanks for reminding me to add that to my project notes for the kitchen.

Never seen adjustable boxes before. Guess I learned something today!

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Never seen adjustable boxes before. Guess I learned something today!

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They've been around for years at Lowe's and HD as I've used them in my renovations since early 2000's. They come in real handy when installing outlet cover plates on walls where your wall texture finishes very significantly and you want the cover plates to fit snug against the wall.

They cost a bit more as I recall them costing about $2-$2.20 versus the regular type that cost about $.30-.$50 but are well worth it in certain situations...

The saga continues ... gutting the kitchen has been added to the scope.

Might be easier to just list which parts of your home aren't currently under construction.

The house is a total disaster zone right now ...

Started demo on the dining room side:




Existing configuration on the kitchen side of that same wall:

I almost forgot about this gloriously beautiful wallpaper.





I'm sure it was nice and period-appropriate when it was installed 79 years ago; however, it completely disintegrates when you touch it.

This is the general plan. The design app won't let me put the pony wall behind the cabinets in or the countertop overhang. It will be a peninsula with the range.

Got the framing in yesterday for the new wall and peninsula.



It should be sheetrocked tonight so I can start installing cabinets and get the plywood on for the counter. Once all that is situated, we will begin demo on the other side.