Love the doors!

Remember this thread?

Yeah, I got way behind on things and this got put off for a while. I'm not sure what happened to the links on the rest of the photos and why they aren't showing up. I'm back at it and should have some new images up soon.

So far I've installed the valve assembly, dry-fitted the shiplap and drain pan assembly, and a few other things.

Got some work done, and will continue through the weekend.

The framing for the water lines has been installed. The actual lines will be put in in the next couple of weeks.


I test fitted the shiplap to make sure the penetrations are in the right places.


In case you were wondering why I put shiplap back up on the wall, since this room used to be the back porch and was enclosed at some point, the exterior siding extends behind one of the walls that enclosed it. It's easier for me to put shiplap back up to compensate for the thickness of the siding than it is to try to remove or trim the siding.


I spent a portion of my day today up on the roof getting ready for installation of the water heater vent stack. It started out like this, with the old water heater stack still in place.



The new vent stack will come up right where the eaves of the main roof are, so I opened up a portion of the roof to extend the main roof down to a seamless connection. One of the problem I have now is that water can get blown up under the eaves when it rains and leak into the house.


The framing should give you the general idea of how this is going to work. Decking will be added across the new framing, then felt and shingles will be laid continuously from one part of the roof to the next.



The old vent stack is gone - now to patch the shingles.

You're braver about patching shingles than I am... I still need to run the stack for the cooktop vent through the roof and dealing with two layers of shingles is what's keeping me from cutting a hole.

that looks like an awfully low pitched roof.

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that looks like an awfully low pitched roof.

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It is. I originally wanted to rebuild it with a steeper pitch, but that would involve having to open up the main roof to install new rafters and potentially re-engineer the foundation.

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You're braver about patching shingles than I am... I still need to run the stack for the cooktop vent through the roof and dealing with two layers of shingles is what's keeping me from cutting a hole.

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It's not that difficult. I ran a 7" rigid duct to a gooseneck in a couple of hours.

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that looks like an awfully low pitched roof.

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It is. I originally wanted to rebuild it with a steeper pitch, but that would involve having to open up the main roof to install new rafters and potentially re-engineer the foundation.

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I'm guessing that it's OK to use shingles on it?

The pitch is 2:12 - the minimum recommended for a shingle application.

I didn't have any lift issues with Hurricane Ike, and the water issues seemed to be from water infiltration at the connection to the rest of the house. The rest of the roof has about 5 years left on it, so I'm not worried about the long-haul with it. I suppose I could always seal each shingle with asphalt cement.

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The pitch is 2:12 - the minimum recommended for a shingle application.

I didn't have any lift issues with Hurricane Ike, and the water issues seemed to be from water infiltration at the connection to the rest of the house. The rest of the roof has about 5 years left on it, so I'm not worried about the long-haul with it. I suppose I could always seal each shingle with asphalt cement.

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Unless things have changed 3:12 used to be the minimum pitch for asphalt shingles. You may want to thinkabout an ice and water underlayment in the areas where it is that flat or at a minimum using it where the pitch transitions.

I did use 30# felt for the transition instead of 15#.

For ease of view -

Before & After:

my OCD would be going nuts at the different colors, but good job!

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my OCD would be going nuts at the different colors, but good job!

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Mine, too.

The new shingles are the same manufacturer and color as the shingles that were installed on the lower roof eight years ago.

I discovered today that the sidewalls of this room are not framed all the way from floor to ceiling. They are only framed about 6' up, then paneled the rest of the way. I'm going to have to completely remove and reframe the wall. It's going to be fun, since it is an exterior wall. At least it's not bearing the load of the roof. I should be able to build it then slide it into place.

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I discovered today that the sidewalls of this room are not framed all the way from floor to ceiling. They are only framed about 6' up, then paneled the rest of the way. I'm going to have to completely remove and reframe the wall. It's going to be fun, since it is an exterior wall. At least it's not bearing the load of the roof. I should be able to build it then slide it into place.

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That sucks!

Ordering all the parts I need is getting a little out of hand. Between HD, Lowe's, and Amazon, I think I will finally have everything I need to finish this. Right now I've got seven different parts coming from five different states. I actually had to get one of the parts from a brewery supplier.

I've also learned to compare HD prices to Amazon for parts I don't need on-the-spot. I went to HD last night for a gas supply connector. They had 35 in stock in the overhead, but the employee did not want to pull them down from stock to sell me one. Instead, he tried to sell me an undersized connector that I couldn't use. The same product was $14 cheaper on Amazon.

Overall, I don't mind Home Depot, but you are a nuisance as soon as you go looking for help in retrieving a product from their shelves.

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Overall, I don't mind Home Depot, but you are a nuisance as soon as you go looking for help in retrieving a product from their shelves.

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Pretty much. I recently had to replace my shower mixing valve cartridge and all nine of the packages on the rack had been opened and taped closed - obvious returns - and most of the packages contained a product that was different than what was supposed to be in it. Similar problem with the gas connector - all of the packages on the rack had been open and the fittings removed.

And don't get me started on plumbing fittings being in the wrong bins.

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I discovered today that the sidewalls of this room are not framed all the way from floor to ceiling. They are only framed about 6' up, then paneled the rest of the way. I'm going to have to completely remove and reframe the wall. It's going to be fun, since it is an exterior wall. At least it's not bearing the load of the roof. I should be able to build it then slide it into place.

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How can the wall not be bearing any load from the roof?

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How can the wall not be bearing any load from the roof?

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It's a shed-style roof. The outer wall that runs perpendicular to the rafters bears the weight of the roof.

This is similar in design to what I have:

I thought this might be a good place to ask a question with regards to a tankless water heater.

I think it's likely that the hookup that runs to the outside wall (and probably my washer/dryer aren't set up right. I'm not exactly sure what the issue is, but it looks like only hot water flows, not cold/room temp.

Any ideas on how to fix this that don't involve tearing the wall open?

I'm not sure I understand what you are describing. Do you have a hosebib outside that runs hot water? If so, that's the hot system drain.

Yeah..I didn't explain it all that well (it's kind of hard to).

When I walk in my back door, I have the washer/dryer to my right with the tankless heater above them. The wall where all this is, is on an outer wall.

On the exterior portion of the wall, there is a water faucet hook up as well, all in the same area.

What I'm finding is that the water to that faucet and to the washer are usually hot. Initially I chalked it up to temps being hot outside, but now I'm becoming convinced something wasn't hooked up right.

Clothes that come out of the washer are usually warm even when done on cold.

The outdoor faucet can start off cool, but will legitimately get hot after use (we don't use the hose much, so I never really noticed it.

So basically I think something wasn't hooked up right and is causing only hot water to flow (not sure how that's possible....)

Not exactly sure how to go about fixing this issue without tearing the wall open to see the connections.

Edit: And I'll add...all other outlets seem to be working right.

Do BOTH of your washer hookups run hot? If so, you're going to need to open up the wall to see what's wrong.

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Overall, I don't mind Home Depot, but you are a nuisance as soon as you go looking for help in retrieving a product from their shelves.

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This is the truth.

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Do BOTH of your washer hookups run hot? If so, you're going to need to open up the wall to see what's wrong.

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Sorry, meant to reply back yesterday but got busy.

Spent some time looking at it this weekend and here's what I "think" I know.

I know for certain my exterior faucet is hooked up to the hot water...I imagine that it would take a plumber to fix this. Probably will hold off if ever doing this.

My washer was doing hot water no matter what setting i had it on which is a problem.

I reversed the hoses on my washer to test to see what happened. On the hottest setting, I got cold water...so that's good I think. I reversed the hoses back, but didn't have time to test whether it was working now.

So I've figured out part of it, but not all of it.

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I know for certain my exterior faucet is hooked up to the hot water...I imagine that it would take a plumber to fix this. Probably will hold off if ever doing this.

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That's probably on purpose. Like I mentioned previously, I suspect it is the hot system drain. You have to have a means of draining the system, and that normally consists of a hosebib at the end of the line.

Interesting.

So conceivably at some point, it should turn not hot right?

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Interesting.

So conceivably at some point, it should turn not hot right?

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No. The only time it shouldn't run hot is when the head water in the line has cooled off, but it will be replaced by hot as the supply from the water heater flushes it out.

Perhaps I wasn't being clear - you have two systems - cold and hot. Each of those systems should have a drain at the end of the run.

Yeah ... this is going well ...

Recall as in, refund?

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Recall as in, refund?

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No, that means it's an order that was pulled up in the system. They "recall" the order so I can pay for it at the cash register.

More pics! I had myself a demo day today.

This is one of the walls once I got the paneling down. It's a hot mess.


Most of the studs vertical members are 30-32 inches apart.


That's cute - the vertical members don't go all the way up.


Oh, wait - They stop at the window sill.


Speaking of the window sill, yeah, it's in great shape.


Siding and windows are about to come out.


As seen here:



More of the window sill:



All gone, and providing a great view of the neighbor's pool.