Sold my house and the inspector had to find something wrong so he "recommended" a pan under our water heater. Since our heater is located in the garage, by code, it does not need a drip pan. That said they want one, but just the pan, no drain pipe attached, just the pan.

I know how to drain the heater, but is this a one man job? I figure I'll need to lit it 2 or 3" to be able to slide the pan underneath. Not sure If I could use some 2x4 scraps to rest the heater on while lifting it.

Do the pipes have enough give to move the heater this much?
gas line is flexible, but not sure how much flex the others have.

I've done it by myself but it would have been A LOT easier with an extra person. Hopefully the drain works or it just became exponentially more difficult.

I would go ahead and disconnect the water and gas lines for both ease of lifting and because Murphy's law always bites me in the butt.

How big is the water heater? That has a lot to do with how many people will be required to move it.

50 gal

You're looking at 150+ lbs for the water heater, completely dry and brand new. Add up to another 40lbs or so for sediment if you have hard water and haven't been cleaning it out.

You'll need at least one, probably more helpers.

Dude, do not do it. Let the new owner worry about. That is a negotiable "fix" that is not necessary to safety, especially if it is already okay with code.

BS inspector 'finding'. If it meets code, no need to do this plus it is useless with the drain pipe.

I agree. Not to mention the water will drain out the hole where a drain pipe would go anyway, just like it would if there were no pan.

Having the same issue. Where did you see that it is not required by code? Thanks.

You need to talk to the city/county where the home is located.

College Station code requires the pan and drain pipe.

pan and drain pipe even if it is located in the garage?

CITY OF DALLAS

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Is a drain pan required for the replacement of existing water heaters?

RP2801.5 Required pan. Where water heaters or hot water storage tanks are installed in locations where leakage of the tanks or connections will cause damage, the tank or water heater shall be installed in a galvanized steel pan having a minimum thickness of 24 gage (0.016 inch) (0.4 mm) or other pans listed for such use.

All new water heater installations require a drain pan and drain. Existing water heater installation that was approved under a previous code and does not have an existing drain pan and drain, which is installed in a location where leakage from the water heater will not cause structural damage, will not be required to have a drain pan and drain installed when replaced.

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I assume they are saying being in the garage it will not cause structural damage?

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I assume they are saying being in the garage it will not cause structural damage?

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Agreed. Leaking water will just flow to the street.

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pan and drain pipe even if it is located in the garage?

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Yes, City of College Station requires this on any hot water heater even if in the garage which is stupid!

Plus is must be vented to outside. So my mom recently got a new one and it cost $1,100 for the plumber because of the code requirements.

So would you guys agree that these codes only pertain to newly installed units? In other words, I shouldn't have to add a pan to an existing heater that is in the garage.

New installs must be retrofitted.

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So would you guys agree that these codes only pertain to newly installed units? In other words, I shouldn't have to add a pan to an existing heater that is in the garage.

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I believe that's correct, but if you replace it I think you will have to have a pan.

It is required by many cities depending on the age of the house/water heater.

When I inspect I generally find other things to "call out something" (j/k) and will tell clients not to have a pan put under an old wh. I don't like the idea of manhandling an older tank around and possibly causing stress and leaks. I tell them to make sure a pan get installed when the unit is replaced. I have seen people fixate and insist though. It is also a TREC SoP required call out, so the inspector has to call it.

If I were selling right now, I would say no, email the potential damage issue and offer a 100 or 200 toward a new one whenever it happens.

For those that said a pan without drain is worthless, I disagree.

Last weekend the hot water was no longer hot one evening. Upon checking the heater, the pan was half full of water and had covered the air intakes for the burner. The leak was from the outlet pipe on top of the heater.

Therefore, the pan without the drain actually helped me identify and repair the leak sooner than it would have with a drain.

If the pan has a pre-drilled hole in it, it will be useless without a drain pipe.

So i was about to start doing this fix it this weekend but discovered the water pipes didn't have an give in them so I am going to have to disconnect them in order to lift the water heater.

When I re-attach the water pipes is it just plumbers tape and turn until snug?

Is it a copper connection? If so yes, using counter torque to make sure the lines survive removal and disconnection.

yes copper

Just sold my home; inspector found the same thing. Google search led me here.

Should have just started looking in TexAgs to begin with.