Hi All,
I need to add one receptacle to an existing circuit for a projector. The projector is rated at 3.1A / 272W, and our house was built this year (in Houston). The run will be no more than 20 feet (hoping closer to 10 depending on layout in attic).

Is romex ideal for this situation or is there something better?
Do I need 12/2, 14/2, 14/3, or something else? (sorry, not familiar with this)

I will be taking several precautions when installing for my safety and others.
TIA

14/3 Romex is fine for an additional outlet, but I'm slightly worried about you doing this work since you're asking this type of question.

Adding an outlet is fairly easy, but the consequences to not doing this correct are huge. If you're not comfortable with this, hire a qualified electrician to do the work for you.

If you decide to do this yourself and need some tips, check out the Black and Decker type electrical books that they sell at HD and Lowes.

Romex, i.e. NM or NM-B cable. It's what your house already has. Check the loadcenter/panelboard in your house. If you have 20A circuit breakers (feeding the circuit you're tapping), you need 12-2 with ground. If you have 15A circuit breakers, 14-2 with ground.

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I'm slightly worried about you doing this work since you're asking this type of question.

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hence the XX number of views before someone replied. Hell, I thought twice.

OP, where are you planning on hitting the existing circuit.

And 14/3 has black, red, and white. You only need XX/2 with ground.

What Underroos said (the first time) the breaker size determines the wire size needed. Power consumptionwise you should have no problem

Make sure the splice is done right and contained in an appropriate box.

Does your city code allow 14-2 for a power circuit? I would use 12-2w/g just to be safe.

There are no code issues using 14-2 if it is on a 15 amp breaker. You shouldnt use 14-2 if it is on a 20amp circuit.

All city codes allow 14-2 if it is a 15amp breaker. As said the breaker amperage determines the wire minimum size. So if you are not sure, just use 12-2, then you are good either way.

Where are you planning to tie in for power?

I'd like to tie into another receptacle. Basically I need a receptacle up high for a projector and wanted to either move the plug (as in tie in through the box and put a cover plate on it where the plug was) or just add a receptacle.

I don't feel like the work is over my head, but if I don't feel comfortable in any way, I'll hire someone to tie it in. If I could do the rest of the work myself, I will (and let an electrician do the final hookups).

I'm not trying to put anyone or anything at risk, just looking for the best way to go about this. I appreciate the responses.

Edit: it is a 15A breaker for the room, but I'll feel more comfortable by using 12/2 with ground.

[This message has been edited by pnut02 (edited 10/16/2011 7:40a).]

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Does your city code allow 14-2 for a power circuit? I would use 12-2w/g just to be safe.

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If the circuit is already 12/2, depending on where you tie into it and if you tie anything else off of it, you may need to keep it 12/2. If the circuit is 14 ga, DO NOT up it to 12/2 because you would "Feel better" -- you need to keep it 14ga.

Nthnig the "should you be doing this if you have to ask this question?" question. DIY Electrical with no prior knowledge = easy way to make your new house burn down.

[This message has been edited by superspeck (edited 10/16/2011 12:59p).]

So there is an outlet up there nearby?

Making your connections in an existing box (assuming you have space) is fine. You can even leave that outlet working it you want. Then just run wire over to the location you want the projector outlet, use a retrofit box and install your new outlet. You just do not want to do a splice and leave it uncovered in the attic.

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If the circuit is already 12/2, depending on where you tie into it and if you tie anything else off of it, you may need to keep it 12/2. If the circuit is 14 ga, DO NOT up it to 12/2 because you would "Feel better" -- you need to keep it 14ga.

Nthnig the "should you be doing this if you have to ask this question?" question. DIY Electrical with no prior knowledge = easy way to make your new house burn down.

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Good to know - I will keep it consistent. I have done electrical in the past, but not messed with wire gauges.

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So there is an outlet up there nearby?

Making your connections in an existing box (assuming you have space) is fine. You can even leave that outlet working it you want. Then just run wire over to the location you want the projector outlet, use a retrofit box and install your new outlet. You just do not want to do a splice and leave it uncovered in the attic.

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Ok, that was my plan - I want to use an existing box, and if I can leave the receptacle, even better.

I'm not trying to sound cocky or like I know everything, but I did graduate with an electrical engineering degree, so I do have a little knowledge. I do respect your opinions, and that's why I ask you all.

[This message has been edited by pnut02 (edited 10/17/2011 7:59a).]

This is what I used when I ran into a similar issue with cords for my wall mounted tv.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2

edited for link

[This message has been edited by AgFan247 (edited 10/18/2011 12:11p).]

Thanks AgFan. I have seen those, but it really doesn't fit my needs - mainly surge protection. I would have to run it across the room, which I would prefer not to do. I found a Leviton receptacle that has a built in surge protector in the decora style. I just need to add a box and run romex it to it (again thanks to all those who replied).

Out of curiosity Speck.

What exactly is the danger in using a larger gauge wire with proper approved connectors?

Wire sizing is base on load and heat build up in wires. I fail to see a danger is using 12 gauge wire.

I am not a specific expert in the NEC, but nothing in the reference books I commonly use says anything about that (not that it is something I would normally be able to see on an inspection unless it was run from the actual breaker box.)

I would not normally call it out as wrong if a 15amp breaker in a panel had 12 gauge wire - because the breaker would trip well before the heat limit of the wire. While obviously, I would call it out as wrong in the opposite situation - a 20amp breaker with 14 gauge wire.

Always interested in learning something new....

[This message has been edited by Absolute (edited 10/18/2011 4:36p).]

There isn't anything wrong with using #12 on a 15A circuit breaker or an extension of a branch circuit, provided, as Absolute mentioned, you have the right size wire nuts, terminals, etc. In some cases, you'd have to use #12 on a 15A circuit to overcome voltage drop.

You could theoretically have someone see the #12 and incorrectly assume it was a 20A circuit, but that's on the installer.

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While obviously, I would call it out as wrong in the opposite situation - a 20amp breaker with 14 gauge wire.

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Interesting part is that the rated ampacity for #14 (using the standard 75 deg C table) is 20A**. The 15A circuit breaker restriction comes from a footnote in the ampacity tables in Article 310, and is based on overcurrent protection requirements.

** #14 would physically handle 20A, but it's still a no-no to use with a 20A breaker.

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All city codes allow 14-2 if it is a 15amp breaker.

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Fuzzyfan asked if you could use #14 on a "power circuit." Nobody would argue that #14 works on a 15A, but some municipalities don't allow the use of #14 in residential applicatons. Others, in commercial applicatons. City of San Antonio, for example, requires #12 period. From the Chapter 10 amendments,

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Sec. 10-1403.1 General exceptions (all types of use and occupancy classifications).

1. No conductor smaller than 12 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum shall be used for individual branch circuits and feeder wiring.

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The blanket all types of use/occupancy covers the R-1, R-2, etc. occupancies for single family houses and apartments/condos.

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As said the breaker amperage determines the wire minimum size.

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For 15 and 20A branch circuits feeding multiple receptacles, yes. In other cases, not necessarily. Say for example you had a condensing unit with a minimum circuit ampacity of 62A. A #6 copper wire is good for 65A. Since there is no 62 or 65 amp circuit breaker (ignoring the European and adjustable trip stuff), it may be fed with a 70A circuit breaker.

Now let's really bake the OP's noodle and ask about running and attaching the wire and where the nailguards go.

Back to the original question, pnut have you ID'd your source recep? Your house is new enough that you should have a light in the attic. That is a potential source to tap, but I'd be conscious of what else is on the circuit. Getting in existing walls sucks, but a fish tape can be your friend.

I have it narrowed down to 2-3 receptacles. Luckily I have 1 1/2 walls that are open to the attic, so it'll be easy to tie in once I move the insulation out of the way. I'm hoping to secure the wire to the stud to be consistent with the existing wiring. This will also help me in identifying the gauge of wire used.

Edit: ideally I would like to try and use the closest receptacle which is either directly below where I'd like to run the new receptacle or a stud or two over.

[This message has been edited by pnut02 (edited 10/19/2011 7:04a).]

Let's see if this works...

The projector will be just over the right part of the sectional. The problem I run into is that the roof line behind the wall goes from the bottom left to the top about where the projector will be placed, making it a little more challenging to feed straight down. I do have access above the ceiling (and will have to run HDMI that way). I will be mounting the projector from the angled ceiling that is barely visible.

[This message has been edited by pnut02 (edited 10/19/2011 7:18a).]

Thanks for the clarification Roos. I know that sizing gets more complicated on larger circuits. As a home inspector I keep it pretty general - I am not doing voltage drops or anything. If I call something out and a licensed sparky comes behind and says it is okay - I am okay with that.

I kind of like the cities I see that do not have 15 amp circuits anymore, seems appropriate for all of our electronics.

Do you really think he will secure the wires???? Cannot remember the last time I saw retrofit wiring secured properly.

OP - that angled ceiling / roof will making fishing the wire down that right wall a real pain. You may want to consider Roos suggestion of the attic light. It does not really matter where you get the power nearby. I would look for something easily accessible.