Recently married and just bought a house built in 1971. It's been awesome to do small things here and there to make it ours and build "the nest" my wife wants for our future family.

My question is what should top my priority list as a new homeowner? I want to add value to my house, but i also know my limits on what I can do and what I can try.

Any wise thoughts out there?

Here's my current project list:
-Convert guest tub to be a shower
-Re-tile mast shower (looks old, nasty, and seems to leak a bit)
-Sod the back yard
-Eliminate moles and gophers (they're everywhere)
-Install stone walkway from front door to driveway/street
-Build pergola on back concrete slab for entertaining
-Update windows (they're original to the house and are paper thin and let out heat/cold AC)
-convert wood fireplace to gas
-remove dying tree in backyard (probably 40 feet tall)

Hope that helps

IMO, this should be your priorities (I am also a fairly new homeowner):

-Convert guest tub to be a shower - not a huge job, but might involve a plumber. this doesn't sound too urgent
-Re-tile mast shower (looks old, nasty, and seems to leak a bit) - this is important, don't let water damage get out of control
-Sod the back yard - wait till the spring
-Eliminate moles and gophers (they're everywhere) - this is important
-Install stone walkway from front door to driveway/street - this isn't super important, unless you're tracking dirt into your house or something. this is a quick 2-day project
-Build pergola on back concrete slab for entertaining - easy to do with help but how much will you be using the house until it gets cold? maybe this will be a spring project too
-Update windows (they're original to the house and are paper thin and let out heat/cold AC) - this is very expensive
-convert wood fireplace to gas - this could be pretty expensive. how often are you going to use a fireplace in TX?
-remove dying tree in backyard (probably 40 feet tall) - probably not super important, unless it's going to fall over. this will be expensive too.

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-Update windows (they're original to the house and are paper thin and let out heat/cold AC) - this is very expensive

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It's expensive, but pays for itself pretty quickly. (Before fixing ventilation in my attic, re-insulating one half of the house, and replacing the windows, my summer electric bill would be > $200 for a 1600 sq ft house built in 1980. Now they're $115, despite how hot it has been.) It's also a huge quality of life difference... you can sleep at night without hearing EVERYTHING outside.

If your house is 100% brick, it's a pain in the butt to do... have someone do it. If the house is wood sided in the back, you can probably do it yourself and save yourself a ton of money by using flanged new construction windows.

[This message has been edited by superspeck (edited 7/14/2011 10:38a).]

super - how much did all that work cost? how long will it take for you to recoup it?

I think with the windows we are going to do them room by room. I've heard the savings that come with new windows despite the huge upfront cost.

What kind of windows would y'all recommend?

Drumma -

It's hard to say. There's two different projects in play here; there's a complete gut and reinsulation/redrywalling of my living room, which ran about $5-7.5k and doesn't really have a payoff except for all the leaks, mold issues, bug eaten areas, and other stench I fixed.



For instance: See that metal strip running below the clerestory windows? That's a piece of flashing that runs from behind the siding to the roof deck. You could see daylight in it, and rain was getting driven back up beneath it.

The back-of-house windows and doors were $2500. Siding, trim, housewrap, sheathing, insulation, paint was $1000, give or take -- I lost track since we ended up adding some stuff, had to re-roof part of the house, etc. The labor was as free as I am. Call it $4k for the entire project, and it took me about three weekends.





So far, my electric bill is down by $80 compared to this month last year, and it's actually been warmer than last year. We'll average that and say I'll get six months of benefits from it, so that's $480 a year between my electric bill and my gas bill. For a $10k job, that's a 20 year payoff. However, I also got a discount on my homewowner's insurance by replacing the wood siding with Hardi (and adding hard-wired smoke alarms throughout), and that totals another $100/yr. The value of the house EASILY went up by $5k from the work I've done; probably quite a bit more, and the standard of living increase from not having to hear my !@#$ing neighbor's dog barking all night thanks to the additional sound absorbing properties of the dual-paned windows is PRICELESS.

Oh, and the windows I got are Burris Tectview windows sold through Enercon in College Station. They're fine for basic windows. I would like nicer hardware on them, but for the value of the house, it didn't make sense to spend more.

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For a $10k job, that's a 20 year payoff.

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I guess since maybe you're older, married, whatever, that you're planning to live in your house for that long. Me, I'm 26, I would like to have bought and flipped at least 10 houses in that amount of time.

For me, it's all about the resale. I'm not going to put that kind of money into a house that I want to sell in 3 years. You won't get your money back at closing.

I know the benefits are there and I applaud you for taking it on yourself. I'm impressed!

Actually, I plan to sell within 5 years. In my area, houses that do not have these improvements do not sell, period. I got a deal on it, and even if I just break even, I'll be fine with it. This house was actually practice for a lot of things I wanted to do to the house that I will live in... I plan to rent it out for a few years since I'll be in Austin.

It would be completely another deal if I was "flipping" it, but a) I live here and my sanity and health is very important to me... And b) I can't stand doing a "flip" on this house because it had some engineering challenges and the much larger cost and challenge was rectifying those. Changing the windows out was a tiny "well, we're in here anyways with it all open..." issue... I'm spending more on flooring than I did on windows.

Depending on what the market looks like when I'm done, I reckon I'll have added about 20-35k in value to the price of the house. It won't be a great return from an investment point of view, but I can now walk into a gutted disaster house and put it back together right, which I couldn't before I'd started this one.

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If your house is 100% brick, it's a pain in the butt to do... have someone do it.

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Disagree. You can buy new construction windows, trim the flange and build a small wood casing around window just the size of the hole. Slide into place and screw into studs. Caulk and paint.

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1971

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Have you checked for aluminum wiring? It was very popular in new construction in the 1960s and early 1970s. I would guess your inspector would have looked for it, but it is definitely something you want to know about.

Windows are obvious pieces on a house and I would encourage you to go ahead and get all the front windows (or back or whatever) at the same time so that you get the 'same' windows. Manufacturing and fashions change. It would be a bummer to have mismatched windows... I've seen this on houses before when driving down a street.

If you think you might sell the house within four or five years, AND it's a 'family' house, you might reconsider converting the bathroom to a shower. Many people with children are not interested in a bathroom for the kids that doesn't have a tub. Just a thought.

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Have you checked for aluminum wiring? It was very popular in new construction in the 1960s and early 1970s. I would guess your inspector would have looked for it, but it is definitely something you want to know about.

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Ryan - my house was built in 1970 and has aluminum wiring. I'm 99% sure it was noted in the inspection report (I honestly don't remember). Is this a problem? I know the cost is exorbitant and it's not something that I'm willing to put into the house.

You need to check all the outlets and switches plus verify the load on the circuits.

If you have a heavy load on an outlet/circuit, you should drop a copper wire from a new circuit. If it was wired well it should keep on going.

The fires occur on overloaded outlets and the screw should not be tightened very tight on the side of the outlet/switch. The AL needs to have a bit of room to expand and contract.

Sounds like you have a list of necessary repairs/fixes already. Once those are done, and you are looking at "optional" upgrades...

If you are looking to add value to your house, typically the kitchen and master bath/bedroom are the two biggest sellers in a house. If those need updating, then I would focus on those first, and spend a little extra money to make them nice.

Flooring and paint are relatively inexpensive (especially paint), and are an easy value-add to your house.

After that, I would look to the backyard and build that pergola you mentioned, add some landscaping (maybe a water feature), some nice lighting, outdoor speakers, etc. A nice back patio where you can entertain, or just relax in the evenings, goes a long way.

take pictures right now and again with every change...look at them occasionally and see the difference subtle changes can make in both quality and appearance.

This pictorial history can be used when you decide to sell to document improvements you have made, changes someone else won't have to deal with.

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the screw should not be tightened very tight on the side of the outlet/switch. The AL needs to have a bit of room to expand and contract

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Um, no. Loose connections are what creates the arcing that can lead to fires. If you start out with a loose connection to begin with, you are encouraging the "cold creep" process. Part of the maintenance process of aluminum wiring is retightening to ensure you have a solid contact. There are benefits to doing so with copper conductors as well, but moreso with aluminum.

This article is for a newer alloy than the stuff from the 1970's, but gives you an idea.

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•What should the inspector look for when inspecting AA-8000 conductor installations?

Inspectors should verify the conductor is UL listed and is sized properly for the load. Table 310.16 in the NEC contains allowable ampacities for AA-8000 wire in most feeder and branch-circuit applications. Inspectors also should verify the lugs are rated for use with aluminum conductors, that mechanical screw-type connectors are torqued properly, and that the proper tool and method is used for compression connectors and pin connectors. If the inspector has any doubts about the proper torquing of a connection, he can ask that the connection's torque value be verified in his presence by a qualified electrician.

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http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_installing_aluminum_building/

One more from Alcan, a wire manufacturer

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Poor workmanship is generally recognized as the primary source of failed connections. Incorrect installation methods included incorrectly tightened connections, wires wrapped the wrong way around binding screws, and aluminum conductors used in push-in connections or with devices meant only for copper (see photo 1). Because the connections were often made incorrectly, a chain of events was initiated that sometimes led to failure at the connection. The connection was loose to begin with due to improper tightening torque, and the physical properties of the aluminum/steel interface tended to loosen the connection more over time. Aluminum and steel have significantly different rates of expansion. Because the two materials would expand and contract at different rates under varying load and temperature conditions, they would gradually develop a smaller contact area. Since the contact area was reduced, the resistance increased. As the resistance increased, the temperature also increased at the termination point.

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http://www.cable.alcan.com/CablePublic/en-US/Information+Center/Specifications+and+Standards/Installation+Specifications/Aluminum+Building+Wire+Installation+and+Terminations.htm

[This message has been edited by UnderoosAg (edited 7/15/2011 4:50p).]

Windows. They will give the greatest return for owning, or for resale. You can do it yourself, if tou are kind of handy, and have a few tools, even in brick walls (I mean replace existing, not put windows where once was a wall). I have done it, and it only cost $100-$400 a window if you use stock vinyl units.

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Ryan - my house was built in 1970 and has aluminum wiring. I'm 99% sure it was noted in the inspection report (I honestly don't remember). Is this a problem? I know the cost is exorbitant and it's not something that I'm willing to put into the house.

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Completely rewiring your house gets expensive quickly. A coworker did it, but it was during the process of a major gut remodel where he could get to most of it fairly easily. And he did all the work himself.

If you want to make it "better", there's a handful of things that can be done. Ensure connections are tight at the loadcenter, meter, outdoor gear, etc. Check the switches and receptacles to see if they are connected with the side screw terminals or the back stab ins. Currently, you can only use the back stab ins (which I hate /rant) if you have copper or copper clad AL wire. You get a better connection, in general, with the terminal screw. Look for oxidation at the connection.

Currently, you also have to use CO/ALR rated receptacles with AL wire. That wasn't always the case - see the article and picture from above. You can replace the receptacles you have now, if they aren't currently, with CO/ALR, but that also gets expensive in a hurry. You may also have a hard time finding a CO/ALR switch. One alternative is using pigtails. You use a regular receptacle with a short piece of copper NM cable (Romex) and then connect to the existing circuit using CO/ALR wirenuts (purple, and also pricey).

The issue with AL wire isn't so much the wire itself (the part in the walls), as it is the connections.

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You may also have a hard time finding a CO/ALR switch.

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Home Depot and Lowes both have CO/ALR outlets & switches. HD is cheaper. There are no CO/ALR gfi outlets--instead just get gfi breakers for the fuse box and project the entire circuit. We did this for kitchen and bathrooms.

As underoos stated, you can use the connectors, but at that point, it is cost neutral to replace the outlets and switches.

IN general, I would tell you to buy quality materials for the work you do. It might be cheap to go with lesser quality because you have a lot on your punch list, but trust me - if you skimp on quality, the improvements you make will end up being temporary, and you will have to go back and re-do/fix things.

Take the time. Spend the money. Do it right the first time.

The stock windows at Lowe's are Pella. Lots of 'wow' factor.

They're a cheaper run of Pella though... Apparent to anyone who knows what they're looking at and cheapens the main Pella brand IMHO.

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They're a cheaper run of Pella though... Apparent to anyone who knows what they're looking at and cheapens the main Pella brand IMHO.

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True, but they are economical, easy, available, and on resale, a buyer won't notice. So what you get is the direct value of a more efficient window and tighter house, while improving your resale and marketability.

*nod* The only problem I've seen with them is that they're really hard to install without twisting/warping because the vinyl is fairly wobbly. You've gotta be GOOD at installing things perfectly plumb and straight. (I know you are, I am to an extent, Pedro's usually not.) If you warp the frame even by accident, you lose the benefits of the dual pane/argon fill. This happened to one of the three windows that I bought from Lowe's/Pella ... probably before it even got into my hands. I didn't know until it was already installed and flashed into place, and had to tear all the siding off to replace it.

Thanks for all the advice! I talked to my wife and our first goal will be to update the windows one room at a time since it's so expensive.

On a side note, I boughta mole trap and haven't caught anything yet. Man I hate those critters

Don't forget to budget a portion of your money to unexpected maintenance or system replacement. On a 1971 house, you are bound to have some things waiting to break at the worst time possible. (Really not trying to be negative here - just realistic) Having a slush fund to help pay for a new AC unit if needed will really make you happy when you need it.

+1 on Absolute's statement on slush funds

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+1 on Absolute's statement on slush funds

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Really, we had allowed for this, and stayed fairly close, except for the $5,000 in labor overages!

Agree with the slush fund for big stuff. My AC went teats up in May of last year. I hated having to spend the money, but being able to spend cash outright and not put it on a card was very satisfying. Some contractors will also give you a cash discount.

I will also agree with the previous post about doing a full side of the house at a time on windows. I know they are an expensive investment, but in the long run, you will be wasting a ton of money doing them in a lot of seperate jobs. Remember - there is a trip charge built in to the cost every time a contractor has to come out (unless you plan to do them yourself). At the very least, do the front all at one time.

Finally, talk to your local code enforcement office and get a good handle on what does or does not require permits. You might be inclined to bootleg some stuff, and you could probably get away with some of it, but if you have nosey neighbors, they might report you. Some folks just have nothing better to do with their time.