Big Bend for a Noob

4,732 Views | 51 Replies | Last: 2 yr ago by Slim Isle
EFE
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AG
Headed to Big Bend middle of April. Flying into Midland and driving to Terlingua. Just a weekend trip. I want to see stars and the GF wants to hike. Both like to eat well. If you had a weekend trip like such, what are the must sees while in/around and on the way to and from Big Bend?
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EFE
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AG
Hiking- I've gained the Covid-19 over the last year, but am hardheaded enough to gut it out and need to start getting back in shape for Colorado Elk in Sept, and she crossfits/runs/etc, so somewhere in between, so my fat ass doesn't have to get drug off or left behind.

Food/Shopping- I was thinking about hitting up Marfa on the to and or from legs.

I'm a lets find and make fun when we get there person, she likes a bit more of an itinerary. Trying to have some good options so I appear to have done more research than she's expecting.
stamper
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AG
One of the best restaurants in the area is the 12 Gage in Marathon. A bit of a hike from Terlingua but worth it in my opinion. Also there is a BBQ joint and brewery there that is really good.

I think for hiking you may want to stick to trails around the Chisos Mountain Lodge. The Santa Elena Canyon Trail is good and not very hard also. The trailhead is pretty near the entrance to the park you will come into from Terlingua.
stamper
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AG
stamper said:

One of the best restaurants in the area is the 12 Gage in Marathon. A bit of a hike from Terlingua but worth it in my opinion. Also there is a BBQ joint and brewery there that is really good called Brick Vault

I think for hiking you may want to stick to trails around the Chisos Mountain Lodge. The Santa Elena Canyon Trail is good and not very hard also. The trailhead is pretty near the entrance to the park you will come into from Terlingua.
Sorry - I was trying to edit my original post to add the name of the brewery and quoted it instead
dave99ag
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AG
A few quick thoughts. We're down there all the time since we have a place north of the Park. I expect AggieOO to chime in since that's his world too.

Hiking - With only a weekend, you don't have lots of time to explore the park, so these are the most popular and can get "busy," but Spring Break is over, so that helps with the crowds. All of these hikes are around the Basin.

Lost Mine Trail - ~4-5 miles roundtrip gives you a view of South Rim and Mexico without the long hike. Very popular, get there early for a parking spot.

The Window - ~4 miles roundtrip, down and then up. Great view and a popular one too.

South Rim - ~11-13 miles. The hike to do in the Basin, but it's a full day.

Emory Peak - ~7 miles, highest peak in BIBE.

Dining

Alpine - Reata ($$$), Magoo's or Judy's Bread & Breakfast for breakfast ($)
Marathon - 12 Gage ($$$) or Brick Vault BBQ & Brewery ($$)
Terlingua - Starlight with a beer on the porch ($$), DB BBQ ($$)
Lajitas - Candelilla Cafe ($$$)

Depending on time, the drive down 170 from Terlingua to Lajitas / State Park is awesome.

BSD
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AG
We did some horseback riding at sunset outside the park. That was pretty. I wish Santa Elena Canyon was open when we were there (Govt shutdown of '19) as that is on my list. The Window trail was nice. Also, the State Park was cool. Closed Canyon was a fun easy hike.

And if Starlight is too crowded, I like the taco place just down the road.

AgRyan04
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On a weekend trip if you're trying to get a taste of the park, Lost Mine and Santa Elena Canyon are your biggest bang for your buck.....those two give you the mountains, desert, and the Rio
Head Ninja In Charge
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AG
AgRyan04 said:

On a weekend trip if you're trying to get a taste of the park, Lost Mine and Santa Elena Canyon are your biggest bang for your buck.....those two give you the mountains, desert, and the Rio
^This. Lost Mine hike will take you about three hours round trip. Good thing too is it's close to the visitor center so clean bathrooms and the general store are right there. Go to Santa Elena Canyon after that, the drive takes about an hour. If you decide to hike that trail, it's a short one, just a mile. Then on the way out, stop by Sotol Vista for an overlook because my guess is all of that will take up the day and you'll catch a decent sunset view since it's on the road out.
Head Ninja In Charge
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AG
If going for stars, there really isn't a bad place to see them. It's pretty breathtaking how clear the sky is out there; they're big and bright AF. But if you want to make it a thing, I'd highly recommend signing up for a star party reservation at McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis. Pretty cool.

https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/visitors/evening-programs
Dr.Rumack
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Spend one night in either Marathon, Alpine, or Marfa. Super cool hotels and surprisingly good food. Marfa will surprise you with how small and quirky it is.

Second the McDonald Observatory. Saw Haley's Comet there as a kid.
AggieOO
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5-6 hours for south rim would be on the fast side for most folks.

Staying in terlingua, don't drive to marathon for food. Eat at the Starlight. And as Dave said, start with beers on the front porch.
EFE
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AG
Head Ninja In Charge said:

If going for stars, there really isn't a bad place to see them. It's pretty breathtaking how clear the sky is out there; they're big and bright AF. But if you want to make it a thing, I'd highly recommend signing up for a star party reservation at McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis. Pretty cool.

https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/visitors/evening-programs
Sold out
Head Ninja In Charge
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AG
Damn. I mean I get it, it's awesome so that's why it's sold out. But damn (for your trip).
BSD
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The observatory is awesome, but it's also 2 hours away. It's hard to do on a weekend trip so definitely go back. It was so cool to see star clusters forming in a gas cloud at a distance that I couldn't comprehend. Unreal....

Damn, now I'm itching to get out there.
EFE
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Definitely going back at some point to play Lajitas, and catch the observatory, but even I'm smart enough to know that ditching my non golfing and wants to go hiking GF on a getaway like this is big dumb.
AggieOO
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Check the moon phase. You want to be there during a new moon (or close to it) if you are going for stars.
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BSD
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That is not the experience I would want to have. Thanks for the heads up.
Yesterday
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Just FYI they're doing road work at the Chisos Basin and the only road up or down is closed from 8-11 and 2-5. At least it was last week when we where there. And the times you can go up was packed due to Spring Break. May be easier now.

Must see's are Santa Elena(short hike with great scenery), window view (not really a hike at all but awesome and quick) and lost mine trail. (Good hike and awesome views.).

So so much to do but if you only have one day this is what I would do.
From top to bottom. My oldest illegally crossing into Mexico in Santa Elena, Boquillas Canyon, Earnst Tinaja trail.




AgRyan04
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NPS website is indicating the updated road construction schedule for getting to Chisos Basin should be completed early-April....we'll see

https://www.nps.gov/bibe/learn/news/road-repair-project-to-begin-11-20.htm
Head Ninja In Charge
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AG
That third pic is fiyahhhhhhhh.
bufrilla
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We've gone twice for Star Parties using one of the big telescopes. Great briefings and you get to actually use the "biggie". I think youngest age was like 9 years to get in. We scheduled almost a year in advance. Each session restricted to 15-20 people. Last anout 4 hours. includes dinner if you want. McDonald Observatory well worth the visit.
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Motot
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AG
Off thread topic
CastleRock, I posted on your classified Garmin ad from a few days back. Didn't want that to fall off radar
Wicked Good Ag
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What is the best time to go to Big Bend in your opinion? I have always thought next time to go early November for chili cookoff and to have nice weather and avoid crowds during non school time

dave99ag
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AG
All the time!

The busiest times are around the normal holidays: Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Spring Break. It's not too hot then, but can get below freezing during Christmas. Once you get past May the temps are going to be in the high 90s - low 100s. There are less crowds then too though.

Ideally you'd go during the week and not on a holiday and you'll have plenty of room to roam.

Win At Life
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AG
Isn't the Kiva back open? If so, should stop by. Pretty unique place.
Wicked Good Ag
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dave99ag said:

All the time!

The busiest times are around the normal holidays: Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Spring Break. It's not too hot then, but can get below freezing during Christmas. Once you get past May the temps are going to be in the high 90s - low 100s. There are less crowds then too though.

Ideally you'd go during the week and not on a holiday and you'll have plenty of room to roam.




What month was that picture take Dave??
Reason is I have about five days in mid April and I just want to get away somewhere solo if need be. Palo Duro and Big Bend are possibilities

What trail was that by the way ?? Love taking pics of the blue bonnets which could in and of itself be done over those few days in Hill Country also
dave99ag
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AG
That was taken 2 years ago in March along Ross Maxwell Drive. They're not as good this year. Most photos I've seen of bluebonnets have been in the state park this year.

Weather will be perfect in mid-April. Probably mid-80s and lows in the 50s. Could get a few rain storms as the monsoon season will be kicking in around then.

You could easily spend 5 days around the Park. Camp up in the basin a few nights, hike South Rim, etc.
Yesterday
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Wicked Good Ag said:

dave99ag said:

All the time!

The busiest times are around the normal holidays: Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Spring Break. It's not too hot then, but can get below freezing during Christmas. Once you get past May the temps are going to be in the high 90s - low 100s. There are less crowds then too though.

Ideally you'd go during the week and not on a holiday and you'll have plenty of room to roam.




What month was that picture take Dave??
Reason is I have about five days in mid April and I just want to get away somewhere solo if need be. Palo Duro and Big Bend are possibilities

What trail was that by the way ?? Love taking pics of the blue bonnets which could in and of itself be done over those few days in Hill Country also


I'd go to Big Ben if your goal is to get away. Palo Duro is awesome but it's not as big and a lot closer to civilization
AgRyan04
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Warning....everything in Chisis Basin and Mountains are closed due to a wildfire (lodge, campground, all trails).

It started at 15 acres on Thursday and has reached +700 acres. It has been reported that it is not an intense fire so long term damage will not be an issue.

https://twitter.com/BigBendNPS/status/1381600569463238657/photo/1

My reservations were supposed to start this coming Sunday but they have canceled all reservations through Sunday (as of now). Will continue to monitor to see if that extends further than Sunday.
CanyonAg77
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Quote:

I'd go to Big Ben if your goal is to get away. Palo Duro is awesome but it's not as big and a lot closer to civilization
Caprock Canyons gets you into the PD type terrain, but more isolated.

But yes, Big Bend Country is way more away from people.
Southlake
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We've gone 3 times to coincide with Tolberts Chili Cook off.

We hike during the day and hang at the cook off all night.

2 or 3 bands every night in an open pavilion.

We know the Tolberts and got to be Chili judges a few years back. Awesome.

Nov. 4th this year. Reserve a place now. You can camp right on the Chili Cook off grounds...
AggieOO
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Win At Life said:

Isn't the Kiva back open? If so, should stop by. Pretty unique place.
It was opened back up several years ago by a British couple from Wisconsin, as weird as that sounds. Closed during covid and was very recently put up for sale. So likely not going to be open for a while.
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