Moscow

5,083 Views | 36 Replies | Last: 12 yr ago by defroach
FHKPLEX03
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AG
Going to try and make it over there for a long weekend before it gets too cold / before the end of September. Will be going solo but have an acquaintance who lives there who offered to show me around.

Any must dos / must don't's?
defroach
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I found Moscow a fairly underwhelming city. The obvious must do's are:

Red Square
Loop Subway station tour

That really is all that I found as must do's.

A couple of other things - when I was there (in January, it was f'n cold), we found a tourguide on tripadvisor that does a free four hour tour every day. You just have to email him before and he will take you around on a standard tour, give you some history, and show you the main sites (as well as giving you rec's on what else to do). Great tour to get to know the Red Square area and a bit of the surrounding areas. I can get you his info if you would like - it obviously was in English. On a day that it was -5F as a high, we did it for 4 hours with 2 english people, 3 people form Seattle, and a Canadian guy. We all had a good time. So I am assuming it is a bit bigger over summertime.

I had some good Uzbek food as well as Georgian food (but in St. P). Georgian food is a must if you are in Russia...that is to me though.

Edit: I believe this was the tour...

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298484-d2196855-Reviews-Moscow_Free_Tour-Moscow_Central_Russia.html

[This message has been edited by defroach (edited 7/10/2012 12:44p).]
defroach
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I should also say that I may have found it underwhelming because it was so damn brutally cold and you just were drained from walking outside. My wife had been there before and felt the same way as I did though (on her first trip). I just mainly wanted to see the red square and 3 days were more than enough for me.

Granted, it does have good nightlife...but your friend should know that.
bthotugigem05
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AG
Start the visa process now, it's an incredibly time-consuming visa process from what I've heard.
FHKPLEX03
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AG
Thanks defroach. Good info and that MFT link looks spot on. Saw reference to some other interesting looking tours as well. Hoping to get there before the weather turns too cold. Will also try to make it to St P on another trip since it's supposed to be nicer than Moscow. I figure a Thurs or Fri thru Sun would be all I'd need to see the city without wearing out my welcome with my host. Probably do some tour type stuff during the week days when she's in the office and then do some partying on the weekend.

Looked into the visa thing and found a place here in Scotland that can handle it in a week or 2 standard lead time. But it is a fairly extensive & expensive application.
defroach
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The visa did take some time but it is mainly just filling it out. You can get an invite letter online for something like $20...(I can give you the service that I have used twice).

It isnt too complicated, just get it in and be exact on your dates (extending a day before and two days after worked for me...just in case).

Where it asks for hotels, I just googled one and put it in.

If you are only there for 3 days, I do not believe you have to get your visa registered - it is something like 5 business days in one city (used to be 3). Since you are staying with a friend, that could be a pain in teh ass to do if you had to get it done (pain in the ass for her, not for you). I tend to just get the hostel to register it for me when I am there - some do it for free, others don't. Either way, I do not think you will have to have it done since your stay is short (verify that before).

St P is a lot better...but that is just my opinion. I like the people and the city better...
FHKPLEX03
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AG
From everything I read I'll have to have a hotel or other entity sponsor me regardless of the short trip duration. I could technically have her do it but don't want her to have to deal with the hassle. There's a company here who can handle it for me so that'll be the route I take at least for my first voyage into Rusky territory.
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Spore Ag
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I liked Moscow agree with the above particularly the market. Gorkys house was great. We went over Thanksgiving(best time for international travel) and St. Pet. was crowded then I cannot imagine what it would be like with 5-6 cruise ships docked.
amercer
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AG
We really liked Moscow, but it was the hardest place we've ever had to travel. It is very crowded, there is no way to fake your way through Russian like you might be able to in Spanish or German, and the city is a sprawling mess.

That being said, we did have a great time. Just leave a LOT of extra time for getting around. It took us 3 hours to get to the airport--2 of those hours were stuck on a two lane road at a broken train crossing, and no one seemed to think this was unusual.

We used this company:

http://www.gotorussia.com/index.htm

The website seems a little sketchy (as do lots of things in Russia), but we had no problems with getting our Visas, train tickets, and hotels.
defroach
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Why would you take a car to the airport? There is an express train that takes 30 min or so to get into Moscow with no stops and free wifi (and I believe it was no more than $15...)

Yeah, the subways are crowded, the ticketing booth was confusing at first...and people always seemed depressed.

Yet again, it was winter, so I would be depressed.
amercer
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AG
If I remember correctly, the train wasn't done, or was under construction or something. Or maybe we were going to the wrong airport. This was 2009 I think. Plus in this particular instance we were flying to Minsk, so we were leaving from Sheremetyevo I, which I guess is technically a terminal of the newer Sheremetyevo II, but is actually miles from the international terminal.
defroach
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We had that problem in St P...our taxi driver asked us if we were flying international and we were...so he dropped us off at one airport only to find out we were in the other...a couple of miles away.

I am guessing they probably have a bus connection between the train and the other terminal. But...it is Russia, so they probably dont.
texas.aggie.2010
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i really enjoyed going to the Russian Underground launch control bunker. it was only a shadow of its former self but it was very interesting to see the Russian point of view during a short film and seeing some of the equipment they used. they do english tours, contact in advance.

http://www.bunker42.com/index.php?lang=en

i stayed at godzilla hostel. http://godzillashostel.com/moscow/

Talk to your friend about Visa, if she's russian i think she can invite you as a friend or something.

Finally, I used Arthur as a driver/translator/guide and would do so again. http://www.moscow-driver.com/I was able to see more things in 2 days than i probably would have in 4 days by myself (plus i was there during protests this past December). but since you know someone in Moscow transportation/language shouldnt be too big of a deal.



ETA:+1 on georgian food (I ate in St.Petersburg and Tyumen though). Thanks to defroach and others that had posted about.


You must eat khachapuri and some georgian style porkchops that i randomly ordered off the menu after seeing someone else that had it. it was presented on a hot skillet similar to fajitas. no idea of the name sorry.


[This message has been edited by texas.aggie.2010 (edited 7/20/2012 7:55p).]
defroach
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Heh in stayed in Godzilla in January. Took us a bit to find it but it was a good clean hostel.

Dammit, now I want some khatapura or whatever the hell that cheese pie is called.
defroach
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And, JMO, it's not worth using her as an invite because it's easier just to get it online
texas.aggie.2010
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also, if youre willing to burn money. there are tank rides south of Moscow at a Tank Museum. I was looking into it but didnt have the time or the money.
texas.aggie.2010
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mmmmmmmmhhhhhh khachapuri



ETA: ill defer to defroach's advice on it being eaiser to have visa request processed online. I just know that when i got my business visa i saw that you could do business, hotel/online, worker, or friend of russian visas.

[This message has been edited by texas.aggie.2010 (edited 7/21/2012 12:34a).]
kloveless09
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AG
quote:

Why would you take a car to the airport? There is an express train that takes 30 min or so to get into Moscow with no stops and free wifi (and I believe it was no more than $15...)



If you mean the train to DME, then it's around 330 Rubles (<$10), and it's infinitely better than taking a cab. A friend of mine took over 4 hours to get there and missed his flight!

Trying to figure out why Texas.Aggie was in Tyumen, though. There's not exactly a lot there.
texas.aggie.2010
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oil service company MWD training school. The Sugar Land School was full so I got to visit Russia.
FHKPLEX03
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AG
well that settles it. I'm definitely going to have to visit a cold war bunker and go on a tank ride. now I'm excited about the food as well. half the reason i take vacations is to go somewhere with better food than they have here in scotland.
kloveless09
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AG
Texas.Aggie, that was my guess. Oddly enough, I'm working in Russia and going to Sugar Land in August.
texas.aggie.2010
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what segment are you in?
kloveless09
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AG
D&M, same as you. Look me up on MOC/lync. My ldap is kloveless.
PetroAg87
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AG
In addition to a tour of Red Square, make sure that you also set aside time to go through the Armoury Museum which is located inside the Kremlin. This is where you can see all of the ancient religious and political artifacts from Russia, crown jewels and throne, Faberge eggs, etc. Well worth the visit.

When I went, my company hired a local tour guide for me. I'm sure that there are plenty of English speaking guides that you can find if you ask around. One of the key benefits to such a tour guide is that they should know how to avoid the lines to get in to the Kremlin, Armoury, etc. I'm sure I paid extra for the "Express" ticket but, after having seen the line to get in, it was well worth it.

While it will indeed be brutally cold in Moscow, nothing beats the experience of standing in the middle of Red Square during a snow storm, with ice skaters on an outdoor rink in front of GUM, with St. Peter's onion shaped spires covered in snow, etc.

Definitely hit Arbat Street if you get a chance. Plenty of places selling souvenirs (I found Aggie nesting dolls as well), old military patches and pins, and such.

The Metro, especially during Winter time, is your friend. Make sure that you have a copy of the subway map and that you can at least match the Russian Cyrillic on the map with the signs on the stations. The lines each have a different color and shouldn't be too hard to figure out which is which. Just make sure that you are heading the proper direction on the line and count the number of stops until your destination. Worse comes to worse, get off, and get back on a train heading the other direction. The ticket you bought gives you unlimited admission throughout the Metro as long as you don't go out the surface exit.

Buying tickets for Metro can be a bit intimidating as the ticket seller always seems to be a gruff old woman who yells at you if you aren't fast enough. But all you have to do is hold up a single finger as you lay your cash down and she should understand that you want a single ride ticket.

Watch out for the cars when you are crossing streets or walking on the sidewalk. They won't hesitate to run you over and, if it has been snowing or icy which it will be, they seem to take special pleasure in hitting the puddles and trying to drench you as they go by.

Also be careful in the evening or in isolated areas. There are underground passages at most major intersections so that you don't have to fight traffic to get across. Again, during winter time, these are nice but later at night, they are probably best avoided because you can find a wide variety of low lifes down there once the working crowd clears out.

If you are out late (or up early) and get a little homesick, visit Starlite Diner. It is an American Diner, maltshop type of place that servers burgers, shakes, fries, etc. Can't tell you exactly where it is except that it is in a small park near the center of town and across the street from the Peking Hotel. Besides the taste of home, it is always fun watching the other groups who show up there, typically after a night of boozing at the nightclubs.

Can't say much about the restaurants. Goodman's is a nice (and expensive steak house) but I don't really go to Moscow for steaks. I have been to several smaller restaurants and had some great meals. Don't leave without having at least one meal of Stroganoff. And if you find yourself hungry while walking around, you can always find a "Krap Dog" hot dog stand for a quick snack. They have a few different types of buns and franks to choose from but you can just point at which you want and you will be ok.
FHKPLEX03
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AG
Thanks PetroAG for taking the time to post your experiences.

I firmed up the weekend I'll be going in early September and am getting ready to submit my visa application. Somehow I've managed to convince my company to set me up with a multiple entry business visa so I may be spending more days than I had planned for my first trip. Allowing me to make some client visits while I'm there.
FHKPLEX03
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AG
Well today I finally got my visa in. Was a bit more complex than originally anticipated but I'm good to go for 1 year worth of visits.

Departing tomorrow afternoon. I have a full day for touring Friday, dinner with a local friend Friday night, full day for touring Saturday, and local friend back again to hang out Sunday. Early Monday morning flight then back at the office Monday afternoon.

Planning to print some metro and street maps and make contact with that tour group defroach recommended.

Thanks for all y'alls input so far.

[This message has been edited by FHKPLEX03 (edited 9/5/2012 2:20p).]
defroach
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Hopefully you "booked" it online for the tour group - I believe they take them until the night before.

Have a great time. Eat some Georgian food
FHKPLEX03
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AG
Yep. Dropped them an e-mail last night. Will probably sign up for some of their pay tours once I get there since those you supposedly don't have to book in advance.
FHKPLEX03
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AG
Yep. Dropped them an e-mail last night. Will probably sign up for some of their pay tours once I get there since those you supposedly don't have to book in advance.
defroach
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Yeah, they'll mention those throughout. A guy booked one at the end and they seemed quite easy to schedule...granted, it was winter.
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FHKPLEX03
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AG
Arrived at DME and took the AeroExpress non-stop train into station Paveletskaya. Got on the Circle Line and fours stops later was walking to my hotel.

Rested up a bit then met the one person I knew in Moscow for some drinks Friday afternoon and evening.

Early evening then up Saturday morning to meet the Moscow Free Tour people at 10:45am. They specify on their website to e-mail them and pre-book so they can tell you the exact time to meet up. I e-mailed them via their website once on Thursday and then directly on Friday and Saturday morning. Never got a response.

Arrived at the meeting point 10:50am and nobody was around so I figured I missed them. Saw another tour group and kinda snuck up and joined them. I asked one of the ‘tourists’ who I heard speaking accent-less English what type of tour this was and it turned out she was the PR director for the Moscow tourism board and I had snuck into a private tour for guests of the British embassy. After she promised not to kick me out we got to talking and 20 minutes later decided to ditch the tour group and go out on our own.

We spent the next few hours just walking around all the tourist sites, seeing the shops, ate lunch, then she had to go to Gorky Park to meet some people and brought me along. There were about 100 or so volunteers who were learning how to better help tourists in the city center area with the usual types of questions tourists ask. The volunteers received t-shirts that said “Ask Me, I’m Local”. And since I just happened to be an actual tourist they had a camera crew follow me around as I asked random passers by how to get to different places, use the subway, etc. I was acting but also legitimately had no idea how to get to the places I was asking about.

After that we walked around a bit more and then had a few drinks at Bar Strelka until the sun went down and the outdoor terrace started getting a bit cold. Great view and place to just relax over a cold one when the weather’s nice. At some point the topic of dinner came up and it’s here I’d like to thank those who recommended Georgian food. When I said I wanted to try it out this girl’s eyes lit up and she said she knew just the place. 7 courses later we could hardly move. And dessert was not one of those courses. Now I know why she was excited when I said Georgian. That was an awesome meal. Then we were just out walking off dinner a bit and I mentioned the nuclear bunker place so we looked around and found it but of course this was late and there were no tours. Next time. We eventually met up with a group of her friends and bar hopped a bit until the wee hours of the morning.

Sunday was spent recuperating and, sadly, working a bit. Was back in the office 11:00am today.

Will definitely be back and am also looking forward to St. Petersburgh in the spring.

Stuff I wish I had known before I got there:

The subway system was confusing the first few minutes as I tried to decipher the Cyrillic but once you realise everything is colour coded and numbered it’s pretty straight forward. I think it’s the best way to get around. But don’t expect to smile and say hi and meet people on the metro. They aren’t happy to be there. At all.

The subway is closed about 1am to 5am. In my case this meant that to get to the airport for my return flight I had to take a taxi which is a bit more expensive and less reliable due to potential traffic congestion.

I wouldn’t recommend having a rental car without the maximum insurance. I saw more traffic accidents this weekend than in the past 11 months in the UK.

Every car is a potential taxi. Just stick your arm out from your side and someone will stop within a minute or less.

Same as with many countries, you need to specify your destination and agree to a price before stepping foot in the taxi. Anything within the Circle Line should be 200-300 rubles ($5-£10) max. They will try to charge a tourist more like 500-800 rubles ( $15-$25).


[This message has been edited by FHKPLEX03 (edited 9/10/2012 11:09a).]
defroach
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Well that sucks but it sounds like your trip was successful anyways
FHKPLEX03
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AG
not good at the picture posting thing but here goes...

Georgian food below. This was a phenomenal meal.



Russian space shuttle in Gorsky Park



they had a setup for park our



new friends i made during my tv appearance




one of the subway stations







karl marx













inside a pretty neat store




we happened across the entrance to the nuclear launch control bunker





this is the church where the band ***** riot performed and subsequently got thrown in jail for 2 years

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