My wife has a 2015 RAV4 with around 130k miles which has developed a strange issue over the past 9 months or so which we have been unable to diagnose. During this past winter, the battery and spark plugs were both replaced at the dealer (Pat Lobb McKinney). Since around the time that this service was completed, we have noticed that the engine is occasionally slow to start, typically after being driven recently (running errands, etc.). It has never failed to start entirely, but sometimes takes 4-5 "clicks" from the starter to reach full power. Months ago, when the issue first appeared, Autozone tested the battery, starter, and alternator, and all came back clean per their scan tool. Additionally, we had the dealership run a test cycle on the battery and they were unable to reproduce the issue. Any ideas of what could be the culprit, or recommendations for a good shop around north DFW/Plano which would be helpful for diagnosing a mystery issue like this?

Did either place check to make sure the correct size battery was installed? Sounds like it doesn't have the cranking amps required.

This seems like a perfect way to use AI.

Cranks slow? Or cranks long?

1agswitchin4lanes said:

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Cranks slow? Or cranks long?

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I would describe it as more of a slow crank, but it's a bit hard to say 100% since my wife is the usual driver. In my experience, when the problem comes up, it sounds a bit similar to when the 12v battery is aging and there is insufficient power for the engine to start. In a couple of instances, when the key is turned, I have heard 2-3 relay-sounding clicks prior to the engine engaging and starting. Once through the initial start within a few seconds, the engine runs normally and does not seem to have any other performance-related issues or CEL codes, so my gut is that it is something electrical-related.

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Did either place check to make sure the correct size battery was installed? Sounds like it doesn't have the cranking amps required.

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I will definitely double check that, but I'm almost certain that the battery is the correct size as it was replaced at the dealership as part of a recall fix for the battery hold-down bracket.

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This seems like a perfect way to use AI.

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I've actually already done that and it's leaning towards the starter, but I wanted to get second opinions before moving further.

Dumb question, admittedly: could they have put in the wrong spark plugs? He said it seemed to start up right around the time of the service.

My wife has the same gen Rav4. Recently replaced spark plugs. Running well.

As far as the battery goes, I don't see this vehicle as needing a high output battery. It may be a small SUV, but the drive train is essentially that of a Camry. From 2013-, this model only has a 4 or, later, a hybrid of some sort.

I had a 2008 Sequoia that did something similar. Ultimately, the injectors were leaking onto the plugs and in turn took several seconds to start. It only happened when it was a warm start.

Starter heat soak?

Post a vid.

Old starters pull more amps when they are hot. My '18 f150 did this. The starter was right next to the exhaust manifold, so I put a heat shield between the two.

CactusThomas said:

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Old starters pull more amps when they are hot. My '18 f150 did this. The starter was right next to the exhaust manifold, so I put a heat shield between the two.

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First thing I would do is check all the battery connections and the connections from the battery to the starter. I have also seen a case in a much older car (78 olds) where the starter solenoid was not entirely disengaging when the car started and would overheat while driving. When they shut the car off it would take 30-60 minutes to cool down before it would operate the starter again unless you climbed under the car and whacked it with a hammer.

If all the connections are solid and not showing any signs of corrosion, it might be worth replacing the solenoid before you replace the whole starter.

txags92 said:

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CactusThomas said:

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Old starters pull more amps when they are hot. My '18 f150 did this. The starter was right next to the exhaust manifold, so I put a heat shield between the two.

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First thing I would do is check all the battery connections and the connections from the battery to the starter. I have also seen a case in a much older car (78 olds) where the starter solenoid was not entirely disengaging when the car started and would overheat while driving. When they shut the car off it would take 30-60 minutes to cool down before it would operate the starter again unless you climbed under the car and whacked it with a hammer.

If all the connections are solid and not showing any signs of corrosion, it might be worth replacing the solenoid before you replace the whole starter.

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A solenoid is over half the cost of the starter. The 2.5L starter is easy to access and new starters are 100-150 bucks.

1agswitchin4lanes said:

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txags92 said:

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CactusThomas said:

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Old starters pull more amps when they are hot. My '18 f150 did this. The starter was right next to the exhaust manifold, so I put a heat shield between the two.

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First thing I would do is check all the battery connections and the connections from the battery to the starter. I have also seen a case in a much older car (78 olds) where the starter solenoid was not entirely disengaging when the car started and would overheat while driving. When they shut the car off it would take 30-60 minutes to cool down before it would operate the starter again unless you climbed under the car and whacked it with a hammer.

If all the connections are solid and not showing any signs of corrosion, it might be worth replacing the solenoid before you replace the whole starter.

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A solenoid is over half the cost of the starter. The 2.5L starter is easy to access and new starters are 100-150 bucks.

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I didn't go look up the prices. Figured it was cheaper, but wasn't sure how much cheaper.