2013 F150. I'm fairly certain it has the electric power steering system due to the lack of power steering reservoir ha.

I'm not so good at diagnosis but when I looked at the back side of the wheel I don't see anything that sticks out to me, but I've never been the best at diagnosis. The steering is still smooth as the day I bought it. Any ideas? No sound when turning right or going straight. Maybe y'all's collective experience spots something obvious I can't. Maybe just hit any zirc fittings with some grease and see how that goes? Although I only see a couple down there. Can post more pointed photos of necessary.

Maybe it's just me but it looks like the boots on several of the ball joints and sway bar links are totally shot? That's a lot of rust...

Lived on the bay for several years and truck is parked on pelican Island half the year now so that's no shocker to me ok the rust.

Ok I assume you're talking about the below etc.. Seems like an easy enough fix, although not sure if addresses the problem, but I can still take care of it.

When I'm driving and turning left. It's intermittent as the car is moving forward as if it's something rotational. But not fast enough to be something rubbing on a tire, if you know what I mean.

Will do, appreciate the tips.

I assume you're talking about a kit like this. I assume I will need a spring compression tool for this evolution like I needed when I put on the Bilsteins.

Yes on the kit. Can't speak to the need for a spring tool since I've never worked on an F150 suspension but guessing the answer is yes.

Are there any brands people recommend or any in should absolutely stay away from?

Gonna be studying YouTube like a mofo before I get started.

You're essentially doing a "front end rebuild"

Ball joints
Control arms
Inner tie rods
Outer tie rods

General tools I can think of
Impact wrench
Big pry bar
Don't need a spring compressor unless your doing shocks also I don't think
Air chisel
Presses (can rent)
Torque wrench

Pretty straightforward job
Will need an alignment after

As far as brands… looks like OEM/motorcraft is all that's really reputable

Really? Nothing from rockauto? This place swears by rock auto.

Check for a rock or pebble between your rotors. I had the tiniest of rocks stuck and it made the most awful noise

Redoing the brakes in a couple days so will give it all a once over.

Weird, when I searched for the stuff it didn't pop up. Only mevotech and some other brand. I'll double back and look again.

You won't be able to find a motorcraft kit on rock auto, will have to piece everything together

Sea Speed said:

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Weird, when I searched for the stuff it didn't pop up. Only mevotech and some other brand. I'll double back and look again.

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Mevotech TTX with the green boots is decent. Their lower lines are ok if you don't plan on keeping forever.

If you want to buy a "kit" look for the Detroit Axle stuff on amazon. Better than other kit options but not as good as you piecing it together yourself

Damn they are proud of these motorcraft parts

Damn I just bought some motorcraft spark plugs on eBay.

Sea Speed said:

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Damn I just bought some motorcraft spark plugs on eBay.

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This is a few years old, but I'd check them when they come in.

Thank you, will do.

i wouldn't even waste your time, if they were "cheap" send em back.

That's my plan. I'm not risking it. I can't believe they fake freaking spark plugs.

eBay vs motorcraft.

Anyone who has done this replacement, how much time should I budget? Also bought new wheel hubs just because I may as well knock those out while I am under there. Appreciate yalls insight.

Sea Speed said:

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Anyone who has done this replacement, how much time should I budget? Also bought new wheel hubs just because I may as well knock those out while I am under there. Appreciate yalls insight.

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Bump. Anyone?

Sea Speed said:

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Anyone who has done this replacement, how much time should I budget? Also bought new wheel hubs just because I may as well knock those out while I am under there. Appreciate yalls insight.

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Twice as long as you think you need and then add 2 hours due to all that rust. Stuff won't come loose easy. If I were doing this I would try to have 8 hours free and a backup car so I don't strand myself if I couldn't get it done in a day.

You can get the shocks off without a spring compressor. It's a little sketchy but you put a jack at the very bottom of the shock and raise it just enough to compress the spring a bit. Then you can remove the top nut and when you lower the jack the shock and spring will be free.

Have done this on a tundra and F150 to install 5100s and it worked great.

I did the 5100s myself and compressing the spring with the hand turn compressor was the sketchiest job I've ever done myself. Need to get some PB blaster and start hitting it up a couple days in advance as mentioned.

Yeah, life's too short to mess with those janky spring compressors imho. I just take them to a shop and pay them a small fee to do the swap for me.

That's my way forward for sure should I need to do it again

The bellows for the inner tie rod replacement does not fit over the rack housing I am very very annoyed.