Got ready to leave this morning and tried auto-starting my truck from the fob before walking out the door and it wouldn't start. None of the buttons worked on it so I unlocked my truck manually and tried starting it and the truck was dead.

Went inside to charge up my portable battery jumper and when I came back out I opened the driver door to pop the hood and the truck started honking. Hit the lock button on the fob and it stopped and then I was able to auto-start the truck without having to jump it off.

Two things I also noticed when I got in the truck to leave:

1. My HUD screen told me to roll the driver side window down and up.

2. My radio was set to the lowest FM station on the dial when I usually have it set to CarPlay

Tried calling the dealership to see if some kind of update was sent out that caused the truck to reset but they hadn't received any alerts about one being done.

I'm going to get my battery tested this afternoon but could it be something else?

This is a 2017 Chevrolet 1500 LT

TL;DR my truck wouldn't start, went inside to get my portable charger and the truck started but acted like it had been reset.

Here's an observation -- I've noticed on 'modern' vehicles that voltage issues can cause all manner of 'inexplicable' electrical problems.

I'd check not only the battery, but also the alternator's voltage output. The tough thing about testing alternator voltage is that is can vary while you are driving due to heat, speed, etc.

Have you ever put your vehicles instrument's panel in what Ford (I know you don't have a Ford) calls 'engineering test mode'? There's a setting on there that will show you the real-time charging voltage as you drive.

Entering this mode varies slightly among vehicles, but I found it helpful when I had an intermittently failing alternator on my wife's Ford. Everything was great until you drove around and hit a certain temp, and then, boom, failure. Shut off the car, and it went back to being fine.

Good luck. Electrical stuff can make a sane sober man turn to hard liquor.

Your battery is dying for sure. In my Mazda a low battery caused my A/C controls to go haywire and my transmission to go into limp mode. It's wild.

If that is the original battery on a 2017, just replace that ASAP and see if anything changes.

How old is the battery

Troy91 said:

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If that is the original battery on a 2017, just replace that ASAP and see if anything changes.

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It's for sure not the original 2017 battery…I should probably keep track of my battery changes but I would guess I'm coming up on four years since I swapped it.

Thanks I'll look into this!

bodaciousbood14 said:

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Troy91 said:

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If that is the original battery on a 2017, just replace that ASAP and see if anything changes.

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It's for sure not the original 2017 battery…I should probably keep track of my battery changes but I would guess I'm coming up on four years since I swapped it.

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4 years is likely enough. I would focus on that battery before doing anything else.

Troy91 said:

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bodaciousbood14 said:

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Troy91 said:

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If that is the original battery on a 2017, just replace that ASAP and see if anything changes.

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It's for sure not the original 2017 battery…I should probably keep track of my battery changes but I would guess I'm coming up on four years since I swapped it.

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4 years is likely enough. I would focus on that battery before doing anything else.

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Bro it's 2023. That battery is almost 7 years old

I'll reiterate what someone said above.

Modern electronics have a minimum voltage. If you got a weak battery can cause a lot of issues.

3 to 4 years is about all you can expect out of a battery. Longer than that and you running a risk.

Easiest thing to do is replace every 3 years and certainly every 4. Nobody wants to spend the money but that's probably the #1 thing you can to to prevent car trouble is keep the battery tip-top.

Extreme heat and extreme cold will cause batteries to fail.

So they wear out. If your battery 7-years for sure replace it before going further.

He said it's not original, maybe 4 years.

OP there is a sticker on the battery that will tell you month and year of manufacture.

Jack Cheese said:

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He said it's not original, maybe 4 years.

OP there is a sticker on the battery that will tell you month and year of manufacture.

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Reading comprehension fail on my
Part.

In Texas 3 or so years with rush hour driving and all bets are off.

Batteries like to take a dump on the hottest possible day, or the coldest possible day.

1agswitchin4lanes said:

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Jack Cheese said:

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He said it's not original, maybe 4 years.

OP there is a sticker on the battery that will tell you month and year of manufacture.

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Reading comprehension fail on my
Part.

In Texas 3 or so years with rush hour driving and all bets are off.

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I don't know how much they've changed, but I put 5 batteries in my '96 Tahoe that I traded in late '02. The first one, I believe, was the only one that lasted over 15-18 months. My '03 one, I swear, you could set your watch by it going out every 2.5 years -- not to the week but to the day. First through 4th ones. Then I got an Interstate and it went out in a year.

Anyway, GM trucks have notoriously been hard on batteries. ALWAYS know your battery interval. If you buy used and don't know, it really isn't a bad idea to go ahead and change it so you will know.