I have a 2019 Jeep JL and bought a new rear bumper with provisions for auxiliary reverse lights (Motobilt Crusher). The Jeep factory reverse lights are a misery. I'd like to wire these to come on with the reverse lights as well as at least one demand switch. Maybe one demand switch front and one rear. I'd like to use them as area lighting behind the Jeep occasionally.

I'd like to avoid cutting any factory wiring to do this. To support that I have a Mopar trailer light kit that I installed. Wanted the factory package but it didn't work out with what was on the lot in 2019. The Mopar kit is a 7pin/4pin setup that is hardwired to the battery (with zero fuse protection, BTW. I have a 12v breaker picked out to fix that near the battery) and taps the signals at factory plugs behind the tail lights. The kit has a control module in the space behind the passenger tail light that may have some internal fusing? Don't know, not specified in the paperwork.

The Mopar kit's 7 pin reverse light wire is rated for 2x21W reverse lights. I've ordered 2x26W Baja Designs Squadron Sports. Nevermind if I wanted to drag a trailer with reverse lights.

I'm thinking I'll run a tap off the Mopar kit's hot/trailer battery charge wire (180W/15A rated) to a positive bus bar in the rear storage tub and then into a relay/fuse box I've got for battery power to my cube lights. Then tap the Mopar kit's reverse wire to switch the relay.

To get on demand switching and to limit any feedback into the rest of the Jeep's wiring through the reverse tap I think I need a diode on the tap coming from the Mopar kit's reverse wire. Am I correct here?

The best way I've dreamed up to wire two independent demand switches and the reverse power is a bus bar that all three attach to after each passing through an appropriate diode to isolate them from one another. Then take a single wire from that bus bar to the switch input on the relay. Activate any of the three and the Bajas come on.

Am I on track/way off base? Do I need all three switch inputs to have a diode? If I'm on track....what is the appropriate type of diode for this? Got a link?

Thanks for reading through my TED talk.

Extra internet points if you can detail how to make one or either of the demand switches also function as an override that turns off the transmission switching of the reverse lights.

Rule 1

Same as wiring a backup camera. Just tap into the black/purple wire on the light fixture side of the plug that the taillights attach to.

I'd use a relay to power the bumper lights to accommodate the increased wattage. Tap into the trailer backup light circuit to activate it and provide dedicated fused power to the auxiliary lights. Then to be able to turn them on independent of the reverse circuit it seems you could feed the relay from a switch on your dash, but I'd be concerned about that feed backfeeding your car's reverse light circuit. Is there a relay with two independent coil inputs?

Now if anybody can find me a momentary rocker switch that stays on when activated (and can be deactivated by rocking down) but resets to off when power to the switch is cut, I'll buy you a beer

Charismatic Megafauna said:

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I'd use a relay to power the bumper lights to accommodate the increased wattage. Tap into the trailer backup light circuit to activate it and provide dedicated fused power to the auxiliary lights. Then to be able to turn them on independent of the reverse circuit it seems you could feed the relay from a switch on your dash, but I'd be concerned about that feed backfeeding your car's reverse light circuit. Is there a relay with two independent coil inputs?

Now if anybody can find me a momentary rocker switch that stays on when activated (and can be deactivated by rocking down) but resets to off when power to the switch is cut, I'll buy you a beer

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I think you'd use two relays in parallel, both NO outputs wired to the positive on the bumper lights. You could also switch the ground circuit. 12V from the interior switch to one relay, throw side. The 12V to OEM reverse lights to the other relay, throw side. Either would activate the lights, but would keep the circuits separate with one of them off.

Boom. Normal you should do that

Diode Dynamics has an interesting kit.

https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-flush-mount-reverse-light-kit.html#trustspot-widget-wrapper

Thanks magnum! It's definitely between your idea and mookie's idea of cut the factory harness and carry a fire extinguisher.

normaleagle05 said:

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Thanks magnum! It's definitely between your idea and mookie's idea of cut the factory harness and carry a fire extinguisher.

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Awesome, glad to help.

*Carry a fire extinguisher anyway.

I've wired my aux reverse lights up on a double throw switch. One way engages during reverse, middle is off, and other way turn on manually. Those led pods are bright. I don't use them in town so being able to change how they function is nice.

silverado_lover said:

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Let's see if my translator works....

I'd go with the double throw switch. Alternatively tap into your reverse wire & for an on demand switch run that from a always on hot wire to a switch to a diode(electronic check valve) to your light. That will eliminate sack feed into your reverse circuit.

Does it matter if it feeds voltage to your reverse circuit? I mean you want light right?