I have a '21 Gladiator Rubicon. Wanting to put 37's on it. What all does that entail for it to be done properly? Does it need a lift? Re-gearing? Is there a list somewhere that just says, "Buy these things, and you'll be good?"

There are guys that have actually thrown on 37's with no lift. Not gonna be usable off road though.

You could fit 37's with a 2" lift. I just traded my Gladiator, but it had I kept it, I was going to add this:

https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jt-2-5-dualsport-rt-suspension/

with 37" Nittos. Lots of debates around re-gearing, but if you are keeping the Jeep long term and plan to use it off road, probably need to re-gear with the 37's. Might add a steering damper too with the bigger tires.

That is the extent of my knowledge.

Brodozer

2" lift on a rubicon will fit 37s but personally I think the proportions are a little off. I got a fabtech 3" lift and 315/70/17 (34.5" +/-) and I think it still leaves a good amount of space for flex between the tire and fender flare. Originally I wanted 37s with closer to a 5-6" lift but didn't want to re gear and at that point the delta to get to 40" tires wasn't too much more so it just kept adding up price wise. Plus it's my daily driver and I have small kids hoping in and out so it would be a little impracticable

I have a 3.5" Clayton lift with 37s. It ran just fine without a regear, but ended up regearing anyhow for freeway driving.

JSKolache said:

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Brodozer

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I was going to buy a Raptor, but Ford said I would need to change my name to Brad or Chad.

I think google, youtube, or a jeep forum is probably a better place to ask this

found this via googletubesearchface

Presuming you currently have 4.10's, your gear ratio would effectively go down to something like a 3.63 with 37's.

A 4.56 gear would leave you with less mechanical advantage than the 4.10's & OE tire. A 4.88 gear will give you more mechanical advantage than OE. The 4.56 would be closer to the OE final drive ratio than the 4.88, but keep in mind that the 37's will be significantly heavier.

If you want a legitimate performance gain from gearing, get into the 5.xx range.

with the 8 speed transmission and 4:1 transfer case in the JL/JT, there's really not as much need to go that deep on gearing. with the old 5AT/6SP, 5.13s were the ticket for 37s and 5.38s for 40s.

but, 4.56/4.88 works very well in the new Rubicons.

what exactly are planning on doing with your JT? you can fit 37s by pulling the inner fenders and adding some wheel spacers or getting wheels with less backspace.

if you just want a little more room to flex or a lift for cosmetics, the Clayton 2.5 is a good value and ride.

gotta be able to park that bad boy on the grass at the t-ball fields, obvi

Furlock Bones said:

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with the 8 speed transmission and 4:1 transfer case in the JL/JT, there's really not as much need to go that deep on gearing. with the old 5AT/6SP, 5.13s were the ticket for 37s and 5.38s for 40s.

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I don't know the transmission ratios, but the additional speeds will only help in terms of performance. Keep in mind that ol boy has spent the coin for a Maggie so I'd imagine performance is high on his list of priorities.

Hell, with a .67 overdrive, I see no reason to not run 5.13s

Some of it's for aesthetics. Next, I'll use for some rock crawling in Mason about once a month.

vmiaptetr said:

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Some of it's for aesthetics. Next, I'll use for some rock crawling in Mason about once a month.

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if you are going out to Mason, that means Wolf Caves and K2. i would go higher on the lift. 3.5-4 inches. JT has a lot of breakover and lot overhang.

Clayton 3.5 overland + is a great kit. the GIIRO joints are flexible enough, but they also dampen road vibrations.

if you bump it up to the premium, you'll get Johnny Joints which are offer more flexibility and are easily rebuildable. but, you have to keep them greased regularly and they will transmit more vibrations on the road.

i'm not a Metalcloak fan. the joints are a very flexible material. but that comes at a cost of longevity. plus, the thin tubing they use on their arms is a joke.

Rockkrawler and Evo are also great.

Clayton is among the best value.


just say no to sky jacker, rough country, etc. cheap chinesium crap.

I have a '21 gladiator with the 3.5" MetalCloak game changer, their fenders, 40s, and 5.13s. Wolf Caves is no joke, I would get the 3.5" lift and the biggest tires you can fit with full articulation, and without rubbing. On a Rubi that would be 38s. My wife has a '21 JLU Rubicon with the 3.5" MetalCloak, 38s, and 4.88s. It looks perfect and she made it up T-Rex at Wolf Caves. Hope that helps.

Never done Wolf Caves or K2, but we have some property in that immediate area. Just going to be toying around at my own place, but definitely same terrain.

jd_05 said:

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I have a '21 gladiator with the 3.5" MetalCloak game changer, their fenders, 40s, and 5.13s. Wolf Caves is no joke, I would get the 3.5" lift and the biggest tires you can fit with full articulation, and without rubbing. On a Rubi that would be 38s. My wife has a '21 JLU Rubicon with the 3.5" MetalCloak, 38s, and 4.88s. It looks perfect and she made it up T-Rex at Wolf Caves. Hope that helps.

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Nice! T-Rex is on big ass rock after another.

Yes it is! And now she wants 40s…