Won't crank & start right up. Have to crank for about 10 seconds before it will run. New coil, good battery, year old(with little use) cap, rotor, points, & condensor. Should I put new points & condensor in there? Or do you think my distributor is stabbed wrong? Once it starts it will idle smoothly at 650 rpm.

Only when cold or also when hot? Is the choke working?

Sounds like the ignition is fine, if it runs smooth after you finally get it started.

If this is a cold start after a long period of inactivity, then it may be as simple as the gas has evaporated out of the carb, and it takes a few seconds to pump more gas up there.

This and possibly a weak or failing fuel pump allowing fuel to run back.

If this is only on a cold start on a car that doesn't get driven much, I would think this is normal. Cars have come a long way since the 60's.

Pour just a tiny bit (approximately 1 ounce) of gas down the primaries before your next cold start. Go and start it immediately after doing so. If it fires right up, then it's a fueling issue. If not, then it might be an ignition issue. I suspect it is the former and may just be the time it takes to get fuel into it from the fuel pump. Especially if the gas has evaporated from the carb and your fuel lines have drained back into the tank. Old carbureted motors are hard to start and may take some tricky choke and throttle play depending on the motor.

IH 152 right? Why are you so ambiguous about what vehicle you are working on?

Check the pump sight glass for fuel. If its been replaced and doesnt have it then check for flow. Then rebuild the holley 1904

Check floats in carb then get rid of the points/condensers and put in a Pertronix.

Both. Cold. When it has been run for 20 minutes or so it won't restart unless it's sits for a good 10 minutes. Yes the choke is functioning properly. Am I using the choke properly when trying to start? I dunno.

Ha, I dunno, just quicker to type I guess. Yeah the fuel pump doesn't have a sight glass & is about a year old mechanical. 1904 has been rebuilt. I'll try the gas down the carb & see if that helps it fire right up.

Is one week considered a long period?

Fuel line could be draining back...
My '77 C10 would do that. Fuel pump would have to draw all the way from the tank if it sat more than a day.

Not starting when hot is a little weird. Your carb might be flooded when you turn it off and that could be why you have to wait awhile to start it. Are you using the choke on hot starts? Typically it's not needed, although you might try holding the pedal to the floor while turning it over or try half choke. Either way I'd work the throttle up and down as you turn it over. If you can smell fuel when turning it over, it's probably flooded.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to have an accurate water temp gauge on that beast to keep an eye on the temp. If it's getting real hot, it might get hard to start. Factory water temp gauges typically don't move until you're in the danger zone. You could have a coolant flow problem, water pump issue, or broken thermostat.

good point in engine temp. What a decent aftermarket gauge that won't break the bank?

Edit for Autometer isn't as much as I thought they were.

60s era WHAT?

International Scout 80. Slant 4 cylinder. It seems like my fuel pump is barely pumping. I am going to check the line back to the tank for leaks & if non are found I will put on an electric fuel pump.

I hate seeing a vehicle butchered instead of repaired correctly, but if you must put a electric pump on it I just took one of a rover 110. Facet brand with external filter cartridge. Way higher quality than the crap youll find at the parts store. You in Dallas?

Speaking of butchering I am going to rework my fuel line before I give up on the mechanical pump. It's possible it could be sucking more air than fuel at a couple of fittings. I am in Corpus but make it up to East Texas a few times a year.

Fuel lines run correctly? Could be vapor lock if hard starting when hot, insulation or better routing might be needed. Check the gap on your spark plugs too, if it's wide that could also be a contributor.

Bring on the Aggie jokes.........replaced fuel filter & boom, top speed achieved. Advancing the timing a hair fixed the no start after warming up issue. Got to go for a Sunday drive! New antique plates came in, no Model T looking picture in the middle anymore. They are a bit plain, say "ANTIQUE AUTO" at the bottom, & have a expiration sticker like trailers have in the upper right corner..

The problem I have now is if I go for a 20+ continuous minute drive(no problem if it's a quick trip around the neighborhood), arrive at my destination, kill the engine, then try to start it right after(day I stop to fill up with gas), I get nothing, no click for dead battery, no starter engaging, no sound of any kind. Gauges come up, radio works, but electric juice acts like it's not getting to the starter. Okay easy, go jump the starter with a screwdriver(like on a tractor)(yes the key is turned on) no dice, acts like there is no juice there. Leave it alone for 15 minutes or so & it starts right up just fine with the key.

Is the starter heat shield missing?

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SL895570R11.html

Of course it's missing. I didn't know there is such a thing. I'll try an empty can of beans.