Weekend project from hell.

14,054 Views | 69 Replies | Last: 8 yr ago by TexasRebel
KY AG
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AG
I love turning wrenches, I really do. But sometimes...



2005 Toyota Tundra. 2UZ-FE timing belt change.

Problem 1: successfully spill antifreeze everywhere during brain fart moment of removing lower radiator hose before draining coolant.

Problem 2: Just getting to the timing belt itself is an adventure in WTF were they thinking. Things removed: radiator, fan, serpentine belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, water pump, power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor, fan bracket assembly, 4 different covers, and then we see -

Problem 3: Harmonic balancer pulley torqued to freaking 800 ft-lbs. CONGRATULATIONS TOYOTA FACTORY WORKER, YOU WIN.



Problem 4: During re-assembly, successfully shear off head of bolt holding fan bracket on. Have to not only 1) more or less completely disassemble engine again, but 2) have to thrown down $150 for a new bracket.

Problem 5: Serpentine belt in Aisin Kit is about 30mm too short. Have to go buy longer one.

Problem 6: Re-assemble, re-fill, re-start everything works fine...



except after it gets up to operating temperature, and I leave it off for a few minutes, IT DOES NOT WANT TO CRANK.




Engine is cold: starts fine.

Engine is lukewarm: starts fine.

Engine is up to operating temperature and I shut it off and turn it back on: starts fine.

Engine is up to operating temperature and I leave it off for greater than a minute: At least 10 tries at starting.


I'm assuming:

a) timing issue

b) some strange sensor not properly connected or

c) demon possession
will.mcg
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AG
Option C
crowman2010
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AG
CDUB98
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AG
I really miss the good ol' days when it was easy to work on engines.

I replaced the coolant bypass hose on my '88 Hilux with the 3.0L V6. The experience wasn't much different. Nearly broke the lower intake in half with a crowbar trying to pry it off.

Get everything back together, including the nearly 20 vacuum lines for emissions, and the damn knock sensor is royally ****ed over and the engine is in limp mode.

The idea of taking apart that engine again to replace it pisses me off so much, I just donate the thing to Kars for Kids.
dubi
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AG
We paid Agmechanic to replace the timing belt and water pump on our 05 Tundra.

We dropped it off and went scuba diving for a week, then picked it up when we got back!
Mr. Dubi
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quote:
We paid Agmechanic to replace the timing belt and water pump on our 05 Tundra.

We dropped it off and went scuba diving for a week, then picked it up when we got back!
He also fixed the wiring harness that got eaten by a rat.
Silvy
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AG
Timing chains
Corps_Ag12
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AG
The voltage regulator in the PCM on the Jeep got toasted this weekend, so I feel your pain. Luckily there is a bypass kit for it.
KY AG
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AG
Engine is spitting p1340 codes, which leads to the cam position sensor. Wondering if I broke it somehow.
KY AG
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AG
quote:
Timing chains


Chains are superior, but they still stretch /looks idly at my OM617

I'm not sure why Ichiro Suzuki (engineer, not baseball player) chose belts instead of chains on the original UZ. Methinks it has to do with noise, as they wanted the LS400 to be as quiet as possible. Still stupid though.
1agswitchin4lanes
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How old is the starter on that tundra/?
TexasRebel
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What's difficult about working on engines now. The still do the same thing.
KY AG
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quote:
How old is the starter on that tundra/?


Brand new. Replaced a few months ago.
JSKolache
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AG
always pay for timing belt service - but DIY everything else
KY AG
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AG
quote:
What's difficult about working on engines now. The still do the same thing.


Keep your obtuse stupid ass trolling out of this thread. I have neither the time or patience.
TexasRebel
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AG
Directed at CDUB. You're doing just fine, if not a little distracted, tired.

And what the hell makes you think I've ever trolled?
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
quote:
Engine is spitting p1340 codes, which leads to the cam position sensor. Wondering if I broke it somehow.
Check the wire, make sure its plugged in and routed correctly. IIRC on these, sometimes its easy to get the wire close to the fan and it cuts the wire.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
P1340

Setting Conditions
  • CMP sensor connector is damaged (check pins for damage, and for moisture)
  • CMP sensor signal circuit is open, shorted to ground or shorted to voltage
  • CMP sensor ground circuit is open
  • CMP sensor has failed
  • Camshaft timing pulley is damaged
  • Timing belt not properly aligned (it may have jumped teeth)
  • PCM has failed

KY AG
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AG
quote:
P1340

Setting Conditions
  • CMP sensor connector is damaged (check pins for damage, and for moisture)
  • CMP sensor signal circuit is open, shorted to ground or shorted to voltage
  • CMP sensor ground circuit is open
  • CMP sensor has failed
  • Camshaft timing pulley is damaged
  • Timing belt not properly aligned (it may have jumped teeth)
  • PCM has failed




Checked connector - ok.
Not sure how I could have damaged the timing pulley.
Quadruple checked the timing belt alignment. All arrows lined up perfectly and turned the engine over twice with the ratchet to ensure everything lined up.

So...either CMP or PCM has failed. Furk.
TexasRebel
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AG
Because I'm seriously asking.
Mr. Dubi
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Check for rodent damage.... We had the same issue with our Tundra. I replaced the sensor, but to no avail. Agmechanic found the harness bitten through. Perhaps you pinched the wires ad 1ags said.
TexasRebel
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AG
Are there any bare spots in the cable, either near the connector or in a place where the insulation could contact the radiator (or something metal)?
03_Aggie
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quote:
What's difficult about working on engines now. The still do the same thing.


What makes them do the same stuff and how tightly they are usually packed in make them more difficult now. It's no longer carbs and engine bays big enough where you can sit inside with the engine and work on it.
KY AG
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AG
quote:
quote:
Engine is spitting p1340 codes, which leads to the cam position sensor. Wondering if I broke it somehow.
Check the wire, make sure its plugged in and routed correctly. IIRC on these, sometimes its easy to get the wire close to the fan and it cuts the wire.


You have to finagle it quite a bit to get it off the connector and grommet on the cover. I'm thinking I finagled a little too hard. But conjecture at this point.

Now...do I have the wherewithal to rip it apart again, or do I pay someone else to do it. That is the question.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Wiring diagram for CMP...

dubi
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Well that diagram certainly clarifies things for me!
TexasRebel
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AG
I'm just wondering what is the point of placing a diode after a light emitting diode.
Corps_Ag12
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AG
quote:
Wiring diagram for CMP...




Ribeye-Rare
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AG
Friend, you don't need to turn wrenches -- you need to write comedy!

Those pictures you posted gave me some damn good laughs. Thanks.

That said, I've long thought that design engineers should be required to perform a few basic repair jobs on their 'creations' just to keep themselves grounded, and maybe, just maybe, give themselves some thought of designing for repairability, and not just for functionality.

A month ago I had the 'pleasure' of pulling the upper intake manifold on a Ford V-6 just to replace the (3) rear spark plugs. How about pulling out a dashboard just to change an A/C blend door actuator? It goes on and on.

I'm sure we all have those stories we can add.

I realize the designers are tasked with cramming everything into less space these days, but jeez. Unless you know it's never going to fail, try to think about the next guy. OK?

Anyway, best wishes for figuring it out. Been there. I feel for you, bro.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
quote:
A month ago I had the 'pleasure' of pulling the upper intake manifold on a Ford V-6 just to replace the (3) rear spark plugs. How about pulling out a dashboard just to change an A/C blend door actuator? It goes on and on.
Its not just ford.

Many FWD V6 applications require disassembly of the upper intake.

The worst is Lexus/Toyota V6s in their SUVs....the Ford V6 is a cake walk compared to that nightmare.
TexasRebel
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AG
I guess it depends on the brand. Some of them are bad for maintenance, and others are bad for service. Things are quite a bit easier to deal with these days as manufacturers tend to use more modular parts. Put the same alternator on every engine and both manufacturing and assembly get cheaper.

Electrical gremlins are the issue. Especially with the sensor arrays getting more complex. I've seen many wiring harnesses rub through after being carelessly shuffled about during a repair that involved completely different systems. Careless might not be the correct word, some techs just never in a million years thought a wire barely in contact with a radiator fin would cause any harm. A few miles, a flat fin and a bare wire later, the hood is up again.
Corps_Ag12
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AG
Assembly is cheaper yet they still charge more money.
TexasRebel
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AG
It's like inflation goes in a circle.
robertcope
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Makes a guy miss his VW Bug.
CDUB98
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quote:
Directed at CDUB. You're doing just fine, if not a little distracted, tired.

And what the hell makes you think I've ever trolled?
I don't care if it was directed at me, KY answered it perfectly.
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