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So whats your evaluation? These were the best choices in the DFW Craigslist.

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Aren't you supposed to lease German autos if you live in DFW?

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I live in Ft Worth, that Dallas rule doesn't apply outside of their county.

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So whats your evaluation? These were the best choices in the DFW Craigslist.

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Aren't you supposed to lease German autos if you live in DFW?

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I live in Ft Worth, that Dallas rule doesn't apply outside of their county.

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Close enough Yankee

lol

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So you're saying I shouldn't buy a early 80's 300D for a commuter car?

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I'm saying be wholly cognizant of the high-maintenance commitment you're getting into.

There are some days with my 300D that I think a divorce is more pleasant than my relationship with this car.

There are some days when I'm cruising around in it, hearing that diesel purr, that I think "this is life!"

That volatility does not seem to go away with time. If you're a bachelor with free time and need a little crazy excitement in your life, then I highly recommend a redhead the 300D. For me, a consultant with a wife, 2 kids, 60+ hour a week job (that requires travel), and a large home in need of attention, my 300D gets a lot of neglect. Sad but true.

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Yay or nay?

1984 300SD

1985 300SD

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That '84 says '94 in the ad.

'85 was not a good year for the OM617 - they added on a lot of EPA ninnies that were not well thought out. The '82-'84 is where the action is.

This looks like a winner, but he probably won't budge too much on the price. I searched for a coupe when I bought mine.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5158914919.html

Yea, that very would cut into my boat fund, aka deplete it.

I don't know much about the newer ones, but maybe you have something similar in your area?

1998 E300 / $5,500

A decent looking 1984 diesel also shows up on our Craigslist but it's up in Charlotte.

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I don't know much about the newer ones, but maybe you have something similar in your area?

1998 E300 / $5,500

A decent looking 1984 diesel also shows up on our Craigslist but it's up in Charlotte.

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Read up on W210 spring perch failure.

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I don't know much about the newer ones, but maybe you have something similar in your area?

1998 E300 / $5,500

A decent looking 1984 diesel also shows up on our Craigslist but it's up in Charlotte.

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Read up on W210 spring perch failure.

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Holy crap, that's unbelievable!

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This looks like a winner, but he probably won't budge too much on the price. I searched for a coupe when I bought mine.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5158914919.html

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That thing would be so pimp

Make it happen, boss.

And if the above image is for Dallas, the below is definitely for Houston.

Buy a boat!

Sold the RV! Now I need a new toy...

Since the OP's purchase is now moot, I don't feel bad about diverting the thread.

Thursday morning I am going to look at a 1985 280SL with a five-speed manual, and 130k miles. Silver over red (the best colors, IMO.) Car has had complete front suspension redone, and a top-end engine rebuild at 90k -- primarily to replace valve seats (apparently common on M110 motors?.)

Please talk me out of buying this car.

I am hoping it has rust in the bulkhead so I can walk away clean. If it is pristine, I might do something stupid.

It wouldn't be a big deal, except I don't have garage space (it isn't going to evict my '88 911). So this car is going to sit outside through the VA winter.

I'm looking for a DD beater that I can drive when/where I don't want to take the 911. I started looking at W123, W124, E30s, E39s, and B5 A4s. I have $5-8k to spend.

This car really doesn't fit what I need other than I think it is sweet, rare (in the US), and is pretty cheap.

Stop me before I buy again....

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And if the above image is for Dallas, the below is definitely for Houston.

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Those wheels say San Antonio

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Since the OP's purchase is now moot, I don't feel bad about diverting the thread.

Thursday morning I am going to look at a 1985 280SL with a five-speed manual, and 130k miles. Silver over red (the best colors, IMO.) Car has had complete front suspension redone, and a top-end engine rebuild at 90k -- primarily to replace valve seats (apparently common on M110 motors?.)

Please talk me out of buying this car.

I am hoping it has rust in the bulkhead so I can walk away clean. If it is pristine, I might do something stupid.

It wouldn't be a big deal, except I don't have garage space (it isn't going to evict my '88 911). So this car is going to sit outside through the VA winter.

I'm looking for a DD beater that I can drive when/where I don't want to take the 911. I started looking at W123, W124, E30s, E39s, and B5 A4s. I have $5-8k to spend.

This car really doesn't fit what I need other than I think it is sweet, rare (in the US), and is pretty cheap.

Stop me before I buy again....

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If you enjoy pain, I would recommend a divorce, or perhaps a vasectomy, before going this route.

SO YOU SHOULD TOTALLY DO IT.

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Since the OP's purchase is now moot, I don't feel bad about diverting the thread.

Thursday morning I am going to look at a 1985 280SL with a five-speed manual, and 130k miles. Silver over red (the best colors, IMO.) Car has had complete front suspension redone, and a top-end engine rebuild at 90k -- primarily to replace valve seats (apparently common on M110 motors?.)

Please talk me out of buying this car.

I am hoping it has rust in the bulkhead so I can walk away clean. If it is pristine, I might do something stupid.

It wouldn't be a big deal, except I don't have garage space (it isn't going to evict my '88 911). So this car is going to sit outside through the VA winter.

I'm looking for a DD beater that I can drive when/where I don't want to take the 911. I started looking at W123, W124, E30s, E39s, and B5 A4s. I have $5-8k to spend.

This car really doesn't fit what I need other than I think it is sweet, rare (in the US), and is pretty cheap.

Stop me before I buy again....

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If you enjoy pain, I would recommend a divorce, or perhaps a vasectomy, before going this route.

SO YOU SHOULD TOTALLY DO IT.

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I can't afford the former (married so long she will get 1/2 my pension), already did the latter.

Bought my daughter (2017) a VW Eos, and am about to sell her CR-V -- I'm not driving a car she named the "blueberry". So soon I will have a stick of bills burning a hole in my pocket.

Someone tell me that a guy with two kids in college (son is a fish!) doesn't need two 80s German convertibles.

You are nuts to have 2 old German cars!

Honest answer: I would not buy a convertible.

Buy a W123 coupe. Or an '86-'89 SEC.

280SL = Grey market car

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280SL = Grey market car

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The seller states he had the engine rebuilt to meet California emissions. Other than that, I don't know when it was imported, or what was done to it, or if ti still has Euro lights & bumpers. The ad has no pictures.

I would think getting to California emissions would require choking the motor out with smog pumps, etc. The 280 wasn't a particularly quick car from jump street. If it is down 20 hp due to emissions crap, it should be a an easy pass.


There is a White 88 560 SEC for sale close by, but with 186k -- which is a fair bit for the gassers.

with the M117 engine just make sure the timing guides and rails have been done and you're golden.

My mom had a 420SEL she drove for 20 years, we had the top end done at 130K with a chain and rails, and then the trans was redone at 150K. Was running strong when I bought it from her with 200K on it.

The 560SEC will have the hydraulic rear suspension.

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280SL = Grey market car

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The seller states he had the engine rebuilt to meet California emissions. Other than that, I don't know when it was imported, or what was done to it, or if ti still has Euro lights & bumpers. The ad has no pictures.

I would think getting to California emissions would require choking the motor out with smog pumps, etc. The 280 wasn't a particularly quick car from jump street. If it is down 20 hp due to emissions crap, it should be a an easy pass.


There is a White 88 560 SEC for sale close by, but with 186k -- which is a fair bit for the gassers.

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It doesn't seem out of line to me. Not sure if the odometer gear in this car has the same problem as the earlier ones where it gets soft and the odometer stops turning, but I think it's pretty common for a lot of the earlier cars to get up above 200K. The internals of the engines seem to be strong, it's just some of the systems that make it work that can get a little weird.

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with the M117 engine just make sure the timing guides and rails have been done and you're golden.

My mom had a 420SEL she drove for 20 years, we had the top end done at 130K with a chain and rails, and then the trans was redone at 150K. Was running strong when I bought it from her with 200K on it.

The 560SEC will have the hydraulic rear suspension.

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I fear a hydraulic suspension -- along with the 14 mpg it is going to get.

The 560SEC seller is asking strong money (~8500) and also has no pictures in his ad. These seem to be complete dogs selling in the $1-3k range, or showpieces selling at $12k+. This one is sort of in the middle, which means it could be a deal, or just a delusional seller.

If I take a look, I will asked about the chain & rails. Thanks!

My biggest concern with the S and E classes are the A/C systems -- I need the thing to work, or at least be healthy enough that I can fix it without doing a full dash dis-assembly.

That + the wiring harness issues are what is keeping me away from the 129 and 126 cars.

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with the M117 engine just make sure the timing guides and rails have been done and you're golden.

My mom had a 420SEL she drove for 20 years, we had the top end done at 130K with a chain and rails, and then the trans was redone at 150K. Was running strong when I bought it from her with 200K on it.

The 560SEC will have the hydraulic rear suspension.

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I fear a hydraulic suspension -- along with the 14 mpg it is going to get.

The 560SEC seller is asking strong money (~8500) and also has no pictures in his ad. These seem to be complete dogs selling in the $1-3k range, or showpieces selling at $12k+. This one is sort of in the middle, which means it could be a deal, or just a delusional seller.

If I take a look, I will asked about the chain & rails. Thanks!

My biggest concern with the S and E classes are the A/C systems -- I need the thing to work, or at least be healthy enough that I can fix it without doing a full dash dis-assembly.

That + the wiring harness issues are what is keeping me away from the 129 and 126 cars.

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I dont think the 126 really had a lot of wiring issues.

The W124 V8 cars had them for sure.

There are aftermarket metal rails/tensioners that last a lot longer than the plastic rails/guides.

The 560SEC if you get it, you should buy the timevalve stainless euro/catless exhaust system, which will free up some HP. Also delete the hydraulic suspension. Thats easy enough to do.

Look for rust below the battery tray and around the rear window. ALso make sure it doesnt have chrome fender stick on arches. That is where rust is formed or rust gets hidden.

The Gen II W126 uses a Denso Compressor, 10P15C or 10P17C which are cheap and plentiful. Most of them have had a new evap by now. My 300SDL would put out 41F air on a 95 degree day with R134a in stop and go traffic.

Is this a DD or a weekend fun car?

It is a DD of sorts -- but I really don't need a DD. I generally bus to the Pentagon, and only drive to the bus stop in bad weather, or when I am too lazy to walk.

So a project car is OK. But I still want an A/C that works.

It is the evaporator I am worried about with all the older Mercedes -- they seem to require dismantling most of the interior to replace.

here in VA a lot of the 124 & 126 cars have not had the A/C repairs, as the summer is more bearable, and shorter than say Texas or Florida.

Drove the 1985 280SL today:


It was a decent car for the $8900 ask, and I think it could be had cheaper, but not cheap enough for me to take it on. A Euro import when new, refitted with US headlights and a catalytic converter, but retaining Euro bumpers. Thorough engine rebuild in 1997. All records for 20+ years -- a very well maintained car mechanically.

I'd never driven a 5-speed M110 before -- it was a fun little motor. Very revvy, and feels more powerful than the 3.8 V8. Not a lot of feel in the shifter, but better than an autobox by a long way. The seller said that the suspension had been rebuilt, but it floated like it needed new shocks, and there was a fair bit of slop in the steering -- but that may be the nature of the recirculating ball. It handled like a boat compared to the 911.

There was some seeping around the head, and the bottom of the motor was a little damp, but it wasn't dripping. There was some rust in the driver's side fender, both under the headlight and inside the jackpoint. But nothing terrible or structural -- and very minor compared to most East Coast cars. My understanding though is that these cars rot from the inside out, so if it is showing, the fender is crispy on the inside.



The car had a thick undercoating on it, so there is no telling what it looks like under that. There is some visible rust on the edge of the driver's rocker where the undercoating has cracked and trapped water.


Floors and spare tire well were solid. Interior was decent, but dirty, with some cracking in the wood trim. But a little elbow grease would go a long way. Gauges all worked. A/C was intact, but blowing warm. Had been converted to R134 at some point, didn't bother to check if it was done properly.

The deal breaker was the paint. The car had originally been blue with a silver/grey leather interior -- and the current owner's wife thought it looked like Dallas Cowboy colors. Being a huge Redskins fan, she wanted it repainted. So they repainted it silver. And it was an amatuer job. Overspray everywhere, paint chipping off, orange peel, etc. looks like a MAACO job or comparable. Which is a real shame. Because if it were an original paint car, it would have been a great buy.

As it is, it is a solid, driveable project for someone. But it needs a strip to bare metal, a new fender, and the A/C fixed.

So, I dodged a bullet, and can focus on something closer to what I need....

This looks awesome:

1892 380SL

Chain has already been swapped out to a double timing chain according to the current owner.

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This looks awesome:

1892 380SL

Chain has already been swapped out to a double timing chain according to the current owner.

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Looks good for a 113 year old car.

Stupid fast fingers

123

Stupid dumb brain

Hey guys, I need some help.

I recently bought a 1978 450SL, the car was not starting but after tweaking the timing a little I got it to start.
After inspecting it further I found out that the breaks were gone and that I needed to change them. After doing it I inspected the break booster and it was rusty, from what i have heard when the break booster is rusty it needs to be changed, and so I did.

Here is where the problem starts.
After I changed the break booster, I took it for a little spin. After no less than 2-3 minutes that car started to vibrate more than usual. I put the car in natural and the vibration went away, but when I put the car back to drive it shut off.

Now everytime I start the car everything is fine, but as soon as the engine gets up to temperature the vibration comes back.

I have called mechanics around me but they all tell me to wait between 6 months to a year.

What could the issue be here?

Totally random bump.

I opened this thread not even remembering it -- and I had about 10 posts on it!

I passed on the Mercedes 9 years ago, and ended up buying an E46 coupe as my "daily" -- but that was about 9 cars ago.

So I'm not a Mercedes guy.

But given the symptoms, I would start with the transmission mounts and flex disks on the drive shaft.

I suspect they are all shot.

My understanding is that it is a reasonable DIY job.

My dad got a '76 diesel sedan in a trade of sorts back in '91. It got great mileage and was an incredibly smooth ride.

It ended up having some kind of overheating/thermostat problem and I don't remember what he did with it.

Helluva first post rook