Going to be ordering a 5x10 utility trailer in a couple of weeks. Leaning on a Big Tex in camo or silver, with treated board flooring. Just seems to be "finished out" better with seemingly more attention to details and well thought out (ie. bolted on jack, not welded) and spare carrier stock.

Also have considered Top Hat and Diamond C.

Anyone here have any good or bad comments on utility trailers in this size range.

Input appreciated.

Old Sarge

I built myself a trailer that's 5x12. It's a real handy size. I used diamond plate instead of wood flooring. What's the advantage of bolted-on jack? I don't get it.

I've got a Top Hat and I'm not a big fan. Big Tex is the way to go, IMO.

Bolted on = easily replaceable if it breaks.

Bolted on = they expect it to break, and have made replacement a little easier for you.

Keep in mind, a 5x10 trailer is going to pull like a sled on ice. I don't know what you intend to haul, but a little more length would be helpful, and it won't cost that much more.

I don't see that bolted on makes it any easier to change the jack...maybe harder. Normally when you say "Welded on" you are talking about the plate being welded on rather than bolted. Welded on is much cleaner in my opinion.

We've had a Big Tex 5x10 with 2' sides for a few years and have no complaints. It's big enough to haul a Mule and small enough for the Mule to pull. My brother got the 6x10 without the metal sides and added wooden sides later. The 6x10 is a little too wide for comfortably driving a narrow road (the road from Llano to Cherokee) and the added sides aren't nearly as good.

I'm pretty sure the bro's is a 6x12, not a 6x10. Either way, I like mine better.

[This message has been edited by HECUBUS (edited 3/22/2007 9:21a).]

As far as pulling a Big Tex 5x10, we can't even tell it's behind us in a Honda Pilot. It's funny/sad how much stuff we have to compensate for selling the Silverado (hitch cargo carrier, 5x10 trailer, Thule cargo box).

I looked at the BigTex trailer website. Probably more expensive than I want to know. I see lots of dentists driving to their hunting lease with 4-wheelers on BigTex trailers. Seriously, I think they're a pretty solid trailer. If you're going to buy off the shelf, BigTex isn't bad.

I haven't had any problems pulling mine. I've carried up to 4,500 pounds and it never swings. I did build it with the axle farther back than most. Looks weird but rides better. Backing up with skinny trailer is a hassle. It kicks out quickly and is tough to see. Not a real big deal though.

The bolted-on jack? That's cheap and crappy.

From the photos, it appears the jack doesn't even have a footing. It's just a tube. That means it will sink in dirt and mud. If you get any rain, you can bury it to the frame. Terrible design. Unless you're parking on concrete only, you gotta fix this.

You see the little triangle, where the jack attaches to frame? Flimsy and basically worthless. It has no strength whatsoever. It's designed to keep jack in position. But that's a fantasyland. If you ever disconnect your trailer with any load, trailer will move a little. Same story with hooking up to trailer hitch. Even wind will move a empty trailer around. First time your trailer rolls, it will crack this spot-welded triangle. Second time, it will break.

Solve both jack problems with a stout disconnect Bulldog jack. Just weld it to the frame. Can't think of the style name, but you can fold up the jack easily. Much stouter jack, much stouter mount, and much better footing.

And it is EASIER to work with. A bolted on jack must be cranked all the way up before driving. My reccomended jack (somebody help me with name) just needs to be cranked enough to clear the ground, then you take it off with kotter pin.

Trailer lights - I'd look for some that were welded onto the top of frame, not the bottom. You're going to break lots more lights when they're low. I also like a cage around lights.

Another thing to think about are the sides. I put expanded metal on the sides on my trailer. It keeps stuff from rolling or flying out.

Also look for cleats or places to attach rope. Should be on the frame, not the brackets. If it doesn't include them, you can weld a few on there for about $5. Really helps out.

Depends on what you're hauling, but I'd look around some more. A few minor adjustments can be made cheaply.

Good points. I think we paid under $1500 for the 5x10 Big Tex with 2' metal sides and front. I've never disconnected the trailer with a load and I put a piece of a 2x6 under the jack. There is very little weight on the jack with an unloaded trailer. I can pull it around empty very easily myself.

I bet you didn't tell the registration people you pull 4500 lb's with that custom trailer...d8)

Oops, I should add the Big Tex has nice ties around the bottom inside and a railing around the top for tying stuff down. And, my one complaint would be the rubber stoppers they put on the open ends of the railing. Get some spares.



That's the one we got in 5x10, black.

[This message has been edited by HECUBUS (edited 3/22/2007 9:57a).]

Close enough?
Birdman....I take it that it was a group of dentist that leased the ranch bordering yours and set the blinds up on the fence line looking into your wheat field...
http://www.bulldogproducts.net/roundscr.html

Bolted on works just fine..also because you can MOVE it if it is in the way of anything .

It is a personal preference issue, I guess. I'm just thinking if you do what a million people ahve done in the past, and take off down the road without cranking the jack up all the way, and break it off on something, and it isn't covered by warranty, then you can replace the jack with a wrench in 15 minutes instead of having to use a cutting torch, and possibly compromising the structural integrity of the trailer with errant cuts while removing the old assembly.

Everyone has a wrench in the garage..not everyone has a cutting torch.

I'm just thinking practical here.

for the record, I own one of those super cheap $200 harbor freight specials, and it gets done what I need it to get done., but no, it probably won't last 50 years, either.

Mouth...you can change out the jack portion on a weld on before you can find a can of WD40 and the proper sized wrench for a bolt on. It's the plate that's welded on....you don't need a wrench much less a cutting torch.

http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200331151.htm

Nevermind..I see what you are talking about now. I've see them 3 ways then: Jack permanently welded in place. The pin attachment like you are describing, and bolt on. I'd generally agree that the pin is the easiest...but I guess everyone calls the pin welded because the mount is welded.

I bought a 5 x 10 utility trailer at Tractor Supply. Can't remember the brand (I'll look at it this evening), but it is the same as the ones Lowes carries. It does have 15" wheels while the ones at Lowes had 13" or 14". I drove it to and from Northeast Texas, going up there unloaded and coming back loaded, and it pulled pretty good. No bouncing or tail wagging going 65-70 mph. The trailer finish is ok, have a couple of rust spots I need to take care of. Trailer is made of angle steel, not pipe. Has treated 2x6 pine for the floor.

Trailer was made by Carry On Trailer Corporation.
http://www.carry-ontrailer.com/

[This message has been edited by Rufus T. Aggie (edited 3/22/2007 9:45p).]

I bought a 5'x10' Big Tex with 12" sides (angle iron) back in '95 when I was 17 for $695. I've replaced the wood flooring once and had the entire thing sandblasted, primed, and painted once. Other than that it is still as solid as it was when brand new. It doesn't sway at all and I've pulled it going up to 85 mph. I've got no complaints.