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3,632 Views | 37 Replies | Last: 12 hrs ago by bam02
AggieDruggist89
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AG
Fellas, in my never ending endeavor to fire proof in Northern Cal, I need a recommendation on high quality chain that lasts more than 10 passes through an Oak. Forester Carbide a good brand? Friends recommendation.

TIA
Gunny456
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AG
Take a look at this video and text.
I cut lots of hardwoods here in the Ozarks. Especially white oak and red oak.
1st point:
Most saws use standard width blades and they heat up fast and dull…..get the widest possible blade that will fit your saw and it will not heat up as fast The 2nd thing:
Pay attention to #5 on parts of the chain. It is called the depth gauge part of the chain….and it determines how much bite the cutting edge takes.
Most manufacturers set that gauge height for non aggressive cutting to reduce kick back for the average joe user.
This shallow bite causes blades to heat up quickly and dull fast no matter what brand you use. Professional loggers have been known to grind this gauge down a small amount to increase the bite of the saw.
That's how loggers get their saws to cut so well. I had an Amish logger show me this and it was amazing how much longer the blades seemed to last. https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/product-support/chainsaw/saw-chain-terminology/c/saw-chain-terminology-s

Before that I tried many different blade brands that all seemed to perform about the same.
AggieDruggist89
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AG
Holy cow!

This is more complex than the most complex Medicinal Pharmacology. I watched the video and it's total Greek to me. I saw the diagram of the chain and amazed at every part has a purpose.

Im more confused than ever. But I will study it and apply what I learn. Amish population isn't too far from where I live. Perhaps I need to consult them.

Gunny456
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AG
I'm same as you. I kept going down the rabbit hole of finding better blades. I hired an Amish young man and he would take brand new blades and make them cut unbelievable compared to how they cut out of the box. His dad and brothers had a sawmill and logged for a living.
Made a crazy difference. Just gotta hold on to the saw with a good grip and be very careful of kick back he told me.
GSS
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AggieDruggist89 said:

Fellas, in my never ending endeavor to fire proof in Northern Cal, I need a recommendation on high quality chain that lasts more than 10 passes through an Oak. Forester Carbide a good brand? Friends recommendation.

TIA
Search for the "yellow" coded chains, almost all chains on saws for consumer use are "green" coded, less agressive, less kickback..but slower to cut.

Years ago I switched to the yellow coded chains, and let the (bigger) chips fly! Just be aware of the increased kickback, but it has never been a problem for me.

Sorta what Gunny mentioned, but a lot easier to buy the chains ready to go.
I think there is also a "red" coded chain, the most agressive. No knowledge of how well it works (or any safety issues).

From Stihl:
ANSI B175.1 Chain Saw Kickback Standard

STIHL's green and yellow color code system serves to identify STIHL bars and chains with different kickback reduction characteristics. Green (go) marks those products which are designed to reduce the risk of kickback injury and comply with the ANSI B175.1 kickback standard. STIHL's low-kickback chain features a green tie strap that identifies each loop as "low-kickback" chain that meets the ANSI standard. Recommended for both the experienced and inexperienced chainsaw user. Yellow (caution) marks products with increased risk of kickback injury. They are for use only by persons with extraordinary cutting needs and experience and specialized training in dealing with kickback conditions.
NRA Life
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Gunny456
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GSS. Thanks for this info!! I never knew this. Will sure beat doing that grinding by hand. Much obliged for the knowledge. Thanks for sharing this sir!!
bam02
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AG
Where can you find these? Box stores?
BurnetAggie99
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Husqvarna 395XP
MouthBQ98
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AG
I generally use Oregon chains. I keep a sharpening tool and sharpen them good before each time I use the saw, and also make sure the oiler is working properly and the blade tension is good. I don't have issues cutting up post oak, and it is HARD, even among oak woods.
Tormentos
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AG
Can't go wrong with a Stihl.
AggieDruggist89
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OK, so the Amish secret, grinding the Guage.

I would like to give it a try with some of my worthless Stihl consumer grade chains laying around. What am I grinding?

GSS
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#5...how much, is the question
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Jason_Roofer
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Grinding the gauge will allow it tot take bigger chunks. I use Oregon and Stihl chains only. I also by the professional blades, which have high kickback potential. My use is a lot of mesquite and oak. I keep 3-5 chains on hand that are sharp and I have a bench sharpener. I don't fiddle with sharpening in the field. When my chain starts putting out dust instead of chunks, it goes in the used bin and I throw in a fresh chain. Then when I have time, I sharpen all my chains and repeat.
Infinity Roofing - https://linqapp.com/jason_duke --- JasonDuke@InfinityRoofer.com --- https://infinityrooferjason.blogspot.com/
CEPhD
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I have heard the Kakei brand of chains, available on Amazon, is good. They are also fairly cheap, so you can keep several on hand…. I don't have any first hand experience however. I do know that never ever ever ever letting the chain touch soil or rock significantly improves the chain life.
Burn-It
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AG
This chick has some decent chainsaw content.


AKA 13-0
CentralTXag
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Should be able to get the yellow coded chainsaw blades at your local Stihl dealer (mine in Rosenberg is who first made me aware of them and recommended them). Bigger stores may nor carry them due to liability concerns (or you have to ask for them).
Burn-It
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AG
CentralTXag said:

Should be able to get the yellow coded chainsaw blades at your local Stihl dealer (mine in Rosenberg is who first made me aware of them and recommended them). Bigger stores may nor carry them due to liability concerns (or you have to ask for them).


Murdoch's has the yellow Stihl chains. I would strongly recommend working with a Stihl dealer who can match the chain and bar to your saw. WC Tractor has some good Stihl part guys. I think they have locations throughout Central Texas. I use the one in Bryan.
AKA 13-0
Fishing Fools
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I like her.
drred4
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I use this one my Stihl 271 and I think same chain but longer bar on my 261 C-M and have no problem having one chain cut a Large oak down and in pieces. I can use a dremal bit if needed a quick sharpening ever. Sometimes do this after finished but usually use a hand file. I also have 3 to 4 sets that I rotate out and ready to use in case I dull one out unintentionally in the dirt. I would get the full chisel but many time have alot of yaupon in the way that the chain may hit so like less kick back.
TX_COWDOC
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AG
Bookmarked. Great info!
www.southpawprecision.com
Type 07 FFL / Class 2 SOT
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Serious Lee
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i got the stihl 2 in 1 file sharpener. has a guide that sets the right angle and grinds the rakers down as well in the same pass. works pretty quickly once you get the hang of it. just 2-3 passes per tooth and it cuts like new. that thing saved my ass during hurricane beryl cleanup.
drred4
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Thats the files I use as well
schmellba99
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AG
Serious Lee said:

i got the stihl 2 in 1 file sharpener. has a guide that sets the right angle and grinds the rakers down as well in the same pass. works pretty quickly once you get the hang of it. just 2-3 passes per tooth and it cuts like new. that thing saved my ass during hurricane beryl cleanup.
this
Gunny456
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AG
What part of the chain are you calling the "rakers"?
Is that the same as the depth gauge?
drred4
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I would say that is the depth gauge
1990Hullaballoo
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AG
OK, you Stihl guys may not like this because I'm an Echo guy. My echo man got me onto Carlton brand chains a few years ago. He told me they would easily outlast any factory chain at least 2 to 1. He makes these chains custom from a spool - I don't think they come in "pre-made" sizes

I have a new Echo saw with an 18" bar. Just Saturday, I cut a live oak slab that took the full 18" with my Carlton chain. I made 4 full cuts on this log that has been laying there over ten years. For those of you who know how hard a cured live oak gets in south Texas, they are hard.

I then proceeded to cut up a 14-16 inch elm tree and ended the session by making two cuts through a 10" mesquite. It still cuts like new. I'm not sure how this stacks up to the chains y'all have been discussing, but it's the best chain I've found
Gunny456
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AG
Got it. Thank you.
Gunny456
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AG
Where can you get those chains made?
TIA
1990Hullaballoo
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AG
Only place I know is in Devine. I can call and ask about where they get them. Will let you know.
Gunny456
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I would appreciate that good sir.
Much obliged.
Gunny456
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AG
I think I need you to come demonstrate how well they cut. The proof is in the seeing right? I want you to demonstrate on various types of trees too…. you know, just to make sure. Maybe bring a couple of extra saws…. and plenty of blades. Want to make it a good test.
1990Hullaballoo
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AG
OK Gunny, ( and others)

Here is their website:

https://www.carltonproducts.com/


There is a dealer locator on the website. The only listing for Arkansas in Sayner.


There is also a product guide on the website showing what they offer.


If I could get away from this job for a weekend, I would love to come demonstrate these for you. I truly enjoy chainsaw work. While I was still in high school, my mother and I decided to cut the limbs back on the ranch roads. Two weeks later we had about 30 cords of wood stacked and no more scratches on the side of the triuck.

After all you've done for me, that would just start to even the score.

Gunny456
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AG
No score to even buddy. Honored to be able to help!
Thanks for the link.
Jabin
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1990Hullaballoo said:

OK Gunny, ( and others)

Here is their website:

https://www.carltonproducts.com/


There is a dealer locator on the website. The only listing for Arkansas in Sayner.



That appears to be a mistake on the Carlton website. There is no Sayner, AR, and when you go to the distributor website they say that they are in Sayner, Wisconsin.

I checked because I'm also in Arkansas and wondered how far I'd have to drive to find these miracle saw blades.
1990Hullaballoo
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Well, I was just going by their website, which is apparently wrong as you pointed out.

Here is what their dealer locator says:

(The screenshot from their website won't even post correctly.)


I guess we need to send them one of those wooden map puzzles of the US

ETA:

Apparently their database has the Sayner address for all states and the Boettcher Supply in Beloit in several states, even though it is the street address for the one in Wisconsin.


I guess they want everyone to go to Wisconsin to get one.
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