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6 volt motor replacement on deer feeder

1,432 Views | 18 Replies | Last: 27 days ago by Thaddeus Beauregard
john2002ag
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Brand new feeder. Motor has stopped working. I think I have everything figured out except how to get this silver top off the old motor. This top is how the spinner plate attaches to the motor, so kind of important.

I know this is a long shot, but anyone know how to get this off?

https://imgur.com/a/eagwzP7
tamc93
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AG
Is there a set screw on it?
john2002ag
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Not that I can tell. I am really at a loss and spent all day disassembling and driving for replacement parts. I could just be fried.

Only possible thing I can think of is that somehow there is a tiny screw in the middle of it.

https://imgur.com/a/QA66156
CS78
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You sure that's the right motor? I had to replace a 6V motor on an ASF air drive and it didn't have that.
ttha_aggie_09
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AG
My personal experience is that most spinner plates seize on the drive shaft and it's a massive PITA to get it off. No real advice other than penetrating oil spray and time.
john2002ag
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That is the old motor. I drove up yesterday just to check on the feeder and pull a game camera only to find the feeder not working. I had to drive back for football game, but then drove back out here today to take it all apart and try to fix it. I have it all apart and have a new motor ready to go, but I can't get that appendage off the old motor so that I can get the plate to turn.

Only other thought I have is that a generic 6 volt motor won't work and it has to be some specific game winner motor, which seems like bull*****
CS78
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Sorry, I didnt read well.

At this point, Id give her a good lubing and stick a flathead under each side and use the body of the motor to force up until it either comes off or pulls the shaft out of the motor.
Deerdude
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May be pressed on. Take it down to O'Reilleys and borrow a puller. Also, I never replace a worn out 6v with another. I upgrade to 12v
DeBoss
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AG
I had to put a new spinner plate on mine when I changed the motor. Couldn't get it off with a hammer so just went all new
- If you are going to do something stupid, be smart about it.
OnlyForNow
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AG
Always been a set screw in mine.

Also, I worked for 3-4 hours on one that I took the set screw out of and it was still seized up. Finally I heated it up with a torch and used a vice on it.

Thaddeus Beauregard
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Deerdude said:

May be pressed on. Take it down to O'Reilleys and borrow a puller. Also, I never replace a worn out 6v with another. I upgrade to 12v


Amen! I wouldn't even spend another second monkeying with that 6v setup. The heavy duty 12v motors with 1/4" shafts and 12v timers are much more durable and reliable long-term, not to mention the larger 12v gel cells and 12v solar panels provide much longer battery life. On top of this, 6v high capacity batteries are harder to find than 12v. Get "The Timer" and you're set. Most, if not all of the high end deer feeder manufacturers use "The Timer" because it's the best, most reliable timer out there. It is fuse protected and it has good quality quick connects between timer and motor leads.

It's easy to convert to 12v. Any of the larger stores that sell deer feeders and feeder parts will have plenty of the motors, spinner plates, timers, batteries, solar panels, and wiring in stock. With all the driving around you're doing to find parts, you could've just converted to 12v, saved $ and have years of trouble free service.
Agape91
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AG
Might try to find something close in size to the collar at the hardware and modify to work on the new motor/existing spinner.
fburgtx
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Some reason that you can't just buy another $10 spinner plate, and put it on the new motor??
john2002ag
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Appreciate all the replies.

To the last post, that is my new plan. My original post was while I was in the field and didn't have another plate.
Deerdude
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I've learned to, under the seat of my Polaris, to carry extra motor, timer, spinner plate, wire harness, Allen wrench.
Murphys Law.
S.A. Aggie
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AG
Deerdude said:

I've learned to, under the seat of my Polaris, to carry extra motor, timer, spinner plate, wire harness, Allen wrench.
Murphys Law.

Ditto this.
HuntingGMan
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AG
Is it possible that the shaft of the motor has a left handed thread into your transition piece?

I know that the high speed motors on small food grinders (like a Magic Bullet) attach to their transmission gear with a left handed thread.

You might have to rotate the transition piece clockwise while jamming the motor (to prevent it from rotating) in order to remove the transition piece from the shaft.
OnlyForNow
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AG
I THINK that normally the polarity in which you attach the battery leads to the motor dictate which way it spins. So it may be L/R threaded but it isnt because of the way it normally spins.
Thaddeus Beauregard
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HuntingGMan said:

Is it possible that the shaft of the motor has a left handed thread into your transition piece?

I know that the high speed motors on small food grinders (like a Magic Bullet) attach to their transmission gear with a left handed thread.

You might have to rotate the transition piece clockwise while jamming the motor (to prevent it from rotating) in order to remove the transition piece from the shaft.


Feeder motors (and most small electric motors in general) typically don't have threaded shafts. They are designed to rotate in either direction, and if you had a threaded shaft, whatever was connected to the shaft would spin loose if motor polarity was reversed. They are usually just cylindrical shafts with a flat ground on for a grub screw to engage. In this case, if you don't see a grub screw anywhere, the piece may be shrink fit or interference pressed into place, in which case, you would apply heat with a torch (very carefully) to remove.
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