So I'm working on getting essentially a permanent deer blind set up on my property that my boys and I will hunt in forever. Ordering the ASF Big Chingon and 10' stand. Clearing lanes and making it an ideal set up.

Question is should I put down a concrete slab and try to mount the stand to the slab to make it very sturdy? Or just level the ground and try to anchor it down?

Lowes sells a 4"x16"x16" concrete block. Put one under each leg and level it.

T-post or mobile home anchors. If T-post, make sure they are away from the stairs or have protectors on the tops in case someone falls. I use either stainless or galvanized cable from amazon and aluminum crimps or saddles to connect blind to anchors. Straps seem easier but you'll be replacing them in two years.

Or you can concrete in some anchors. Im actually doing that on a blind tomorrow.

Thank you makes sense no need to have the extra concrete just use the blocks to keep it level and should hopefully prevent one side from sinking.

I'll look at the mobile home anchors.

nactownag said:

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I'll look at the mobile home anchors.

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Tractor supply sells a light version of a mobile home anchor. Couple different sizes. Didnt work the best for me in sand but might check them out depending on your soil.

Would you have an anchor on each leg? Or just one in the middle?

Those concrete blocks work pretty well. You could even "stack" a couple under each leg (if the topsoil is a little soft, allowing you to dig more out). You COULD get the cardboard "tubes", and pour individual bases.

I know that some people do the "single" tiedown, directly below the stand, either to the ground or a few hundred pounds of concrete. I personally don't care for that method. I use t-posts driven 3-4' in the ground near each leg, AND guy-wires (4) going out from each corner (where blind sits on platform) to t-posts driven 3-4' in the ground at 45-ish degree angles. Maybe overkill, but withstands Panhandle winds…

I tend to over-do things but kinda depends on where it is and how much wind it has the potential to catch in a worst case scenario.

I would think not likely to have huge winds in nacogdoches but still I don't mind over doing things to know I won't have to worry about it again.

Happen to have a picture to show me? If not that's alright.

nactownag said:

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I would think not likely to have huge winds in nacogdoches but still I don't mind over doing things to know I won't have to worry about it again.

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Think of the worst thunderstorm rolling in from the northwest or a hurricane that has dropped down to 70mph by the time it gets to you. Then think about how exposed it is. Hilltop with no trees versus down in a wooded bottom.

It's not hilltop. Lots of trees around it. I plan to have it backed into the woods somewhat. I would sure be surprised if it ever had to withstand more than 35-50mph winds. Sometimes we get the end of the hurricane when it comes up from Houston.

My attitude though is that if the worst case happens I still want it standing. That's why I'm spending good money on it. Build it once and it's there for good.

Dig a hole and concrete in your augur style mobile home anchor for your center anchor . Use heavy cable and a turn buckle. Note, you won't be able to use the anchor hole in the foot if you use concrete block. But that's where you use the t-post ,,,one on each leg. Use heavy gauge fence wire not baling wire to secure your t post to leg,,,then bend them over so you don't have a fall hazard. From experience, Make sure the legs slide into all 4 square tubing sleeves before you leave the all season dealer. Also make sure your forks lift high enough.

One last thing… you need a true flatbed trailer to move that stand , it won't fit on any trailer with rails or wheel well in the way

Good advice. I have a Kubota track loader with the fork lift. I'm pretty sure it will go high enough.

I'm probably going to pay the folks in Brady tx to drive it to me which hopefully they have an appropriate trailer.

I guess I can ask them to confirm the legs fit before hand.

Website says vertical lift is 128.5".
Should I then believe I can lift this stand 10' in the air to install the stand?

Or should I get the 8' option to be safe?

If they deliver it, I'm sure you can negotiate to have them install it or help you install it. Good luck!

I had a blind spot n an exposed hilltop in the panhandle. I drove t-posts pretty deep next to all 4 legs and secured them to the legs with u-bolts through holes in each leg. Then at each foot, I drove a couple pieces of rebar into the ground, split those cardboard tubes lengthwise to fit them around the base of each leg, taped the split back up, and filled each with concrete. Then I dig a hole in the center of the blind underneath the tower, drove 2 t-posts at opposing angles in the hole so they would cross at the tops making an a-frame, then filled the hole with more concrete surrounding the t-posts. Then I clamped the tops of the crossing t-posts together with more u-bolts. This gave me an additional anchor point in the center where I used a steel cable come-along to anchor to the center underside of the blind.

This gave a rock solid base that withstood some incredibly high winds for years. When I later had to move off the lease because the property sold, I had hell moving that blind because the concrete footers wouldn't easily break loose, and when I lifted the blind tower with a forklift, the weight of the concrete at each leg bent the legs. But, that blind never moved over many years.

nactownag said:

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Would you have an anchor on each leg? Or just one in the middle?

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I just do one in middle. If ground soft I'll put two anchors at an angle to cross in middle.

My oldest son (12) and I just put up the ASF little Chingon on a 8 foot stand. It is a very well made blind and stand so I think it will last a very long time/as long as we will need it. My tractor is a little over 50 hp with the loader lift height of 104". The tractor handled it fairly easily.

I would say the biggest issue is even with the smaller blind when raising the blind it wanted to tip off the front of my forks. I ended up securing it with a few tow straps to take care of this. It took a little while but we were able to get everything set up. After doing it, in my opinion if you are paying them to bring it out, I would say pay them to put it up.

I secured each leg with a t-post and then an anchor in the center which seems like overkill but maybe not after reading what others do. The place I bought it from said they have never have heard of one of them getting blown over (the legs angle out from the stand which seems to give it good stability). I am more in central TX where we definitely can see some high winds.

We set a number of large Texas Wildlife Supply 6'X10' steel blinds on 10' towers with stairs as permanent.
We drilled 9" holes 48" deep and concreted in very large spiral anchors that we bought from a rigging company dead center in the middle under the blind.
Then we used 3/8" galvanized cable that we ran diagonal from long corner to long corner. Those two cables went through a very large turnbuckle attached to the center mounted anchor.
We had horrible hill country wind and storms and over 15 years never lost a blind.
The advantage to the center mount is you don't have cables sticking out to trip on or have animals hit. Also you can merely check your tightness of your cables from time to time and just give a little turn on that center turnbuckle to keep it good and tight anchored down.
We put the feet of the legs on 4" thick 12"x12" concrete blocks….,. We drilled through those blocks and into the ground with an hammer drill and drove steel framing stakes that were 3' long and wired tied them to the legs and steps.
Make sure you level and square those blocks.

Yup. Great explanation on anchor detail.

If You spent this much on the stand… don't go cheap on anchors. It's a wind sail up there.

I still like the t-post on the legs as a backup to the anchor. I like to think it keeps it from rocking and getting leverage on the anchor in a high wind.

Also, it's better to level the blocks to each other before you set up stand but almost impossible to anticipate the spacing/location.

Did you have a connection for me to talk to about the blind?

nactownag said:

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Did you have a connection for me to talk to about the blind?

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The reps at the San Antonio plant are super helpful. I think their number is online.

I used to own two , but I sold them cause I didn't want to move them. Otherwise I'd measure the feet spacing for you.

Also… best price on heavy duty cables and turnbuckles here…

https://www.jones-sports.com/golf-baseball-netting/installation-hardware-steel-aircraft-cable/turnbuckles-aircraft-cable

https://www.jones-sports.com/golf-baseball-netting/installation-hardware-steel-aircraft-cable/steel-aircraft-cable-wire-rope

Also great prices on their carabiners too… I use those on everything .

(At least it was cheap a few years ago… looks like things have increased in price)

The center anchor concreted in like you both described is the best way.

Augers with cables can still topple if you get a little settling and the cables get slightly loose. Better way in my experience has beens to be anchor each leg with t post and angle them towards inside so they aren't an impale risk if someone falls. Use some stainless adjustable hose clamps to tie the leg to the t posts

How does this work if the legs are on a concrete block? Just put the t post in the ground near it? Or skip the concrete block?

I would use the center anchor still. The turnbuckle is what is for tightening up when you need to if any settling, etc.

It really depends on your ground. The T Post at the corners work IF you can drive them. You have to slant them to make them clear the block.
Don't not use blocks. Even if the legs have feet on them it's a good idea to use the blocks to keep them from sinking in or rusting.
If your blocks settle and it goes out of level I use short pieces of high quality pvc based composite decking under the legs and on top of the block. They won't ever rot or compress.
I always use the center anchor method with concrete….
then as I said above I use 3-4 foot steel framing stakes set at an angle on the corners.
In our rocky country I had to use a hammer drill with a bit under the size of the framing stakes to drill a hole for them first.
I have done the same using T-Post. Both will work well.

You guys are a treasure trove of good information. Last time I personally lowered / moved / stood a tower was after my pisshead year ~1994. Did it solo after we got off a lease in Campbellton. The tower was fabricated at my grandfathers shop and the box built by my father. It was solid. Only broke 1 window in the process!

Moved it to our place in Atascosa County and had many great hunts until a hurricane knocked it over some time years ago.

I still pass by its carcass after all of these years. Too rusted to do anything now.

I long for another tall tower. We've only used 4' since.

Ended up going with the All Seasons Feeders Big Chingon. Very pleased.

I ended up getting four concrete pads made level to the grade which was a great decision. Originally was going to put it on the 4" concrete squares from Lowes but this was a better more permanent decision. Secured each foot to the concrete pad with bolts. Then have a wire securing with a turnbuckle to the concrete directly under the blind.

The Big Chingon is huge. Absolutely love the quality is appears to have. Time will tell how it holds up but I think I'll be pleased.

Only step left is to keep working on the area to get it cleaned up and looking nice. I know the deer don't care but I want this to be a nice addition to my property.

Thanks everyone for the advice and guidance.

Dang. You need to put a swingset next to it, and a carport to park the Ranger…

I like elevated blinds

5x10