We have this huge, beautiful oak next to the house. It looks pretty unruly to me (granted I have no real clue). It's got one big limb that hangs right over where we like to park, and another big horizontal limb off the back. Both look like they need to be trimmed or taken off. Plus, the interior of the tree sure looks like it could use to be lightened some.

What resources can yall point me to, so I learn how to properly trim a tree? What advice do yall have for me? I would like to save $ and tackle this myself.

ChoppinDs40 said:

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Hire a professional. Don't be climbing up that tree.

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I would love to, but it's not really an option right now.
I certainly need to at least get the lower overhanging limbs down.

ChoppinDs40 said:

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cupofjoe04 said:

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ChoppinDs40 said:

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Hire a professional. Don't be climbing up that tree.

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I would love to, but it's not really an option right now.
I certainly need to at least get the lower overhanging limbs down.

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Do some research online. Big branches need to be cut properly and at the right "length".

Cleaning the crown will have you removing deadwood and weaker shootoff branches..

Read about oak wilting

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Thanks!
I have been reading up on oak wilt. I definetly plan on waiting until it is well north of 95, and I'll use an appropriate sealant paint.
I also have seen bigger branches undercut first, to prevent it from ripping down the trunk. I'll read more for sure, and make sure I understand the proper length (assuming you mean how much is left on the tree), to allow for good healing.

I hope to take it easy this year. Maybe just getting rid of some of the lower limbs causing danger, and a couple of the interior limbs that are laying across others. Any deadwood I can conveniently reach will go as well. Not very much of the tree, percentage wise- maybe 8-10%. Will probably wait to think about thinning the crown until next year or so. Take is slow and learn as much as I can, is what I want to do.

My county agent says there are 52 days of the year to NOT trim a tree.
God said, "Remember the Sabbath"- that's too much work.

Very interested in this. Need to trim several trees, many of them live oaks, and I don't want to pay someone to do it all. Glad I read this, because I thought "lion tailing" was a good thing.

Agree with this!

Go get the cheap pole saw at HomeDepot or hand tree pruner saw and start cutting .., leave the bigger branches and trim the smaller stuff, when it looks good to you , then you're done. If you mess up, wait 6-8 months and try it again ….

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-15-in-Steel-Blade-with-16-ft-Telescopic-Tree-Pruner-Husky-18/321621045

I'm no arborist, but that hasn't stopped me from trimming trees, and doing it all from the ground.

If you've got respectable upper body strength, I can recommend this 8" 40 volt battery-operated pole chainsaw from Greenworks:

Greenworks 20672 8" Polesaw

Assembled it is about 8', so if you hold it at a height of 5' off the ground, you're cutting branches about 13' up. Plus, if you order an additional extension pole (it already comes with one), you can add another 2-1/2 feet to the length.

It's not recommended by Greenworks (in fact, it's cautioned against), but I've added up to three (3) additional 2-1/2 foot extensions and really been able to get up into the tree. It's a bit tough to handle, but I'm no kid and I can handle it.

If you need to go much higher than that, get a Jameson manual pole saw kit. It will come with a 16" blade. Order the number of 6' poles you want to string together, and make sure you order the yellow poles, as they are the stiffest. I've used four (4) of those poles at one time (in fact, I did it yesterday on a cedar elm) and while it's a bit tough, it does the job. I will admit that it can be tiring.

Good luck.

I'm no kinda expert but I hate and avoid the broccoli tree look <- my term for what I just learned is lion tail. The most unnatural look ever. Bleck.

What's a good recommendation on a sealant? Got some big water oak branches that are dying already and need to come down.

Black spray paint is pretty standard.

So standard that the tree trimmers in SA use it on all trees whether they are oaks or not.

That being said, the oak tree wound is vulnerable to oak wilt for a short time, likely three days max.

I agree let them be. Trimming a tree for pure esthetics is a human want. I understand the need to cut low hangers to walk or mow under. Also, I trim off the twigs that come off the limbs that grow downward all the time. Once you get them under control it's a lot easier and you'll have a great looking tree.

Micropterus said:

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1. Wear your PPE, especially glasses and gloves.
2. Buy a pole saw
3. Piece the limb down in manageable sizes
4. Make the undercut, move out a an inch or so, make the top cut.
Here is a brief guide on making the final cut

Dont get into the branch collar to promote proper wound healing.

Lots of info on the interwebs on tree pruning techniques. Do a little homework first.

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I always wondered why line c-x is a no-no. I have a pecan tree in my backyard that was trimmed like c-d. As the tree aged and bark began to cover the spot where the limb was, the bark growth created an area near point d where rain would collect, and as a result the tree began to rot there. Seems unhealthy for the tree in the long run.

Buy a Ford…

Thanks for all the help guys!!! This is why I came to the OB.

I have some more research and learning to do for sure. Will study up on thinning interior sprouts. Probably won't end up doing that, per several rec's on here. I will trim 2 lower branches, only because they are very long and not super stable and hang directly over vehicles, and will pose a risk. There is one interior limb that lays on top of another major limb, so I'll trim that and any deadwood I find (can't be much). But I've got some time to research that stuff, and to acquire some sealer before the temps get to 95+ when I would think about trimming.

Thanks again!!!

We have always called it the poodle cut when lawn guys get up in a tree and strip it out to the end. I hate it and then during the next growing season it explodes all the way out to the end of the limb and looks like crap with more to clean up.

Burdizzo said:

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Micropterus said:

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1. Wear your PPE, especially glasses and gloves.
2. Buy a pole saw
3. Piece the limb down in manageable sizes
4. Make the undercut, move out a an inch or so, make the top cut.
Here is a brief guide on making the final cut

Dont get into the branch collar to promote proper wound healing.

Lots of info on the interwebs on tree pruning techniques. Do a little homework first.

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I always wondered why line c-x is a no-no. I have a pecan tree in my backyard that was trimmed like c-d. As the tree aged and bark began to cover the spot where the limb was, the bark growth created an area near point d where rain would collect, and as a result the tree began to rot there. Seems unhealthy for the tree in the long run.

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my dad taught me to trim c-x on live oaks . been doing it that way for 20+ years. the wounds usually heal over pretty flush with the trunk instead of leaving a bulging knot on the side.