Anyone have experience with one or one like it? They work well enough?

https://www.microfoodplots.com/product/micro-food-plots-cultipacker-master-series

How big of a food plot are you trying to plant? I do not have any experience with that implement but it just does not look like it would work all that well. I usually will run my disc over the area to be planted multiple passes to really break up the dirt. Then we just throw the seed out by hand or use a hand turned spreader. And then I have a cultipacker to press the seed in. Works well for me. I bet you could get a disc and a cultipacker cheaper than that implement?

Our County Extension Agent recommends simply raking the area then broadcast seed. She says discing will put a lot of seed too deep.

Method is working well on grass seed.

Build It said:

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Our County Extension Agent recommends simply raking the area then broadcast seed. She says discing will put a lot of seed too deep.

Method is working well on grass seed.

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It would. I disc the ground and then put seed down followed by the cultipacker. It wouldn't make sense to disc the seed in.

I would skip the discing. It's not necessary for what food plotters are trying to do, and is not helpful to the soil health, or weed control. It's good for farmers, because they need to plant row crops.

I'm assuming you are using an ATV / UTV based on the product you posted. I have between 3-4 acres that I plant every year using a UTV, sprayer / brush hog (spray or crimp in the spring depending on what's planted and mow in the fall usually), and a shoulder bag spreader.

https://packermaxx.com/collections/cultipackers/products/pmx8hd

The above will let you cover a lot of ground quickly. I have their crimper / cultipacker combo, and while the crimper can be nice, you have to have the right plant (cereal rye in my experience, other cereals mature too late) at the right time (first weekend of April) for it to be really effective. It seems like most of our spring rains in my area are in March, so I ended up spraying and cultipacking the spring planting this year.

All you really need is a sprayer and a broadcaster, but the cultipacker does help a lot with germination.

The only things you will be limited on planting are soybeans and cowpeas, but you really have to be planting four - six acres or so to get them to take without getting wiped out by deer. I've tried smaller areas and the deer hoover them back to the dirt.

docb said:

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I disc the ground and then put seed down followed by the cultipacker. It wouldn't make sense to disc the seed in.

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This! Also .. when I disk (which is getting more and more rare) I like to pack down the soil before broadcasting seed so it's not as fluffy and airy. After broadcasting, I repack to make sure the seed makes good contact with the soil.

OP - have you considered a cheaper method of soil disruption - like a harrow rake? They're cheaper, but never really dig up too much dirt.

A harrow rake plus a cultipacker from Packer MAXX would ultimately be my recommendation. If you eventually want to work up to no-till food plots, you might want to consider the crimper attachment.

https://packermaxx.com/collections/cultipackers

Dang .. you beat me to the punch

I've sold a few of these with good results.

http://thefirminator.com/products/

Depending on what you are planting...I have grown some great fall cereal grain (elbon rye) and clover plots by just broadcasting into heavy thatch. Kill the area with Gly and then broadcast seeds right into it. Let mother nature do the rest.

Do you have a tractor or access to one? Many NRCS offices have no-till drills that can be rented for a nominal fee. Might be a good option for bigger plots.

Have tractor. But this area is deeper in the thick than I can get it. I can barely get the UTV back there.

shalackin said:

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Have tractor. But this area is deeper in the thick than I can get it. I can barely get the UTV back there.

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How big of an area is it that you're trying to plant?

several acres

shalackin said:

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several acres

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If it was me, I would get a cultipacker and sprayer. Wouldn't plant until the fall, ahead of a front. Spray area with gly, let dry for an hour. Per acre, broadcast 50# of oats, 50# of elbon rye, 6# of daikon radish, 6# of white clover, 12# of crimson or red. If you want to add more stuff, 20# of winter peas (never had much luck with those), and 3-4# of brassicas.

Then cultipack it all and let the rain do the rest.

What would you recommend for an early fall (late summer) bow hunting setup?

Last year I went with iron and clay cowpeas, but they died after the first cold snap in early October. I was really hoping to have something that would last until early November.

Why white or crimson clover? I won't recommend any clover until I know the exact soil type.

B-1 83 said:

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Why white or crimson clover? I won't recommend any clover until I know the exact soil type.

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Because one of those two will likely work well. There's a ton of sub varieties, but that's why I usually put out both crimson and a white blend. Crimson usually does best for me, but there will be little areas of white clover that do well and I like the biodiversity.

Watchful Ag said:

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What would you recommend for an early fall (late summer) bow hunting setup?

Last year I went with iron and clay cowpeas, but they died after the first cold snap in early October. I was really hoping to have something that would last until early November.

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I've never been able to get anything to hold on, or get going early enough (heat and worms kill me if I plant before October). I'm trying more millet, milo, and Aeschynomene vetch in my mixes this year. Sunn hemp and vetch will probably get eaten down early, but milo and millet should hold seed heads fairly late. Not gonna be a crazy attractant, but we will see if they make it.

MrWonderful said:

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B-1 83 said:

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Why white or crimson clover? I won't recommend any clover until I know the exact soil type.

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Because one of those two will likely work well. There's a ton of sub varieties, but that's why I usually put out both crimson and a white blend. Crimson usually does best for me, but there will be little areas of white clover that do well and I like the biodiversity.

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Those are two species that thrive on neutral or acid pH. If a calcareous soil is involved, he'll have lots of yellow, chlorotic clover. Way too many "over the counter" food plot mixes have those, with lots of disappointed purchasers.