Wanted to share my experience with replacing the factory Ruger No 1 trigger with the Jard aftermarket unit.
This was my first experience with replacing a Ruger No 1 trigger. The factory trigger wasn't horrible and you can stone the sear to hammer engagement surfaces and make it better, but I prefer the all-steel, I piece design of the Jard to the 3-piece aluminum and steel factory unit with the toggle link. Canjar, Kepplinger, and Moyer all offered replacement triggers for the No 1 in the past, but I have been less than impressed with Moyer's offerings, and I believe the forner 2 have discontinued their No 1 triggers. So, this leaves Jard. The Jard unit is fully adjustable for sear engagement ("creep"), over travel, and safety engagement, in addition to pull weight. It is a well-thought-out, simple design that seems foolproof. They have various max pull weight options, determined by which spring they include. I bought the stainless finish 1.75 # version.
Installation certainly wasn't as easy as installing a Rem 700/700 clone type 2-pin drop-in trigger, but it wasn't too bad. The hardest part for me was driving out the roll pin at the front of the trigger guard. That was so tight on mine it broke my punch. You must be careful not to drop the tiny grub screws, the factory pins you remove, and the trigger spring, as those small items can easily get lost in carpet. But, apart from those issues, installation was fairly easy if you follow Jard's detailed instructions with photos online. I will say that the instructions call for you to adjust the safety engagement set screw at the end, and there's no possible way to do that, so that's puzzling. Luckily I managed to get set screw projection correct totally by accident, so no big deal there for me. If the safety set screw projects out too far, it will prevent you from being able to adjust the sear engagement set screw optimally to eliminate creep.
The Jard 1-pc design dispenses with the toggle link in the factory trigger and uses the factory sear pivot pin as the trigger pivot, thereby increasing the length of the leverage. You do not use the factory trigger pivot.
In short, I am extremely pleased with the results! I now have a very crisp, lighter, less creepy trigger than the factory trigger, which broke at around 4 #. At $125, the price isn't too bad.
Overall, I'm impressed and I highly recommend the Jard trigger for anyone who wishes to improve on the factory trigger and is reasonably handy. The improvement in trigger pull over the factory unit is significant!
Here is a pic of the Jard trigger installed, and another pic showing the factory trigger that was removed.
This was my first experience with replacing a Ruger No 1 trigger. The factory trigger wasn't horrible and you can stone the sear to hammer engagement surfaces and make it better, but I prefer the all-steel, I piece design of the Jard to the 3-piece aluminum and steel factory unit with the toggle link. Canjar, Kepplinger, and Moyer all offered replacement triggers for the No 1 in the past, but I have been less than impressed with Moyer's offerings, and I believe the forner 2 have discontinued their No 1 triggers. So, this leaves Jard. The Jard unit is fully adjustable for sear engagement ("creep"), over travel, and safety engagement, in addition to pull weight. It is a well-thought-out, simple design that seems foolproof. They have various max pull weight options, determined by which spring they include. I bought the stainless finish 1.75 # version.
Installation certainly wasn't as easy as installing a Rem 700/700 clone type 2-pin drop-in trigger, but it wasn't too bad. The hardest part for me was driving out the roll pin at the front of the trigger guard. That was so tight on mine it broke my punch. You must be careful not to drop the tiny grub screws, the factory pins you remove, and the trigger spring, as those small items can easily get lost in carpet. But, apart from those issues, installation was fairly easy if you follow Jard's detailed instructions with photos online. I will say that the instructions call for you to adjust the safety engagement set screw at the end, and there's no possible way to do that, so that's puzzling. Luckily I managed to get set screw projection correct totally by accident, so no big deal there for me. If the safety set screw projects out too far, it will prevent you from being able to adjust the sear engagement set screw optimally to eliminate creep.
The Jard 1-pc design dispenses with the toggle link in the factory trigger and uses the factory sear pivot pin as the trigger pivot, thereby increasing the length of the leverage. You do not use the factory trigger pivot.
In short, I am extremely pleased with the results! I now have a very crisp, lighter, less creepy trigger than the factory trigger, which broke at around 4 #. At $125, the price isn't too bad.
Overall, I'm impressed and I highly recommend the Jard trigger for anyone who wishes to improve on the factory trigger and is reasonably handy. The improvement in trigger pull over the factory unit is significant!
Here is a pic of the Jard trigger installed, and another pic showing the factory trigger that was removed.