It's a 2006. It was running kinda rough and then quit running completely. I have replaced the fuel sensor, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs.

No smoke or any thing and oil looks good. No lights on dash.

Thoughts?

Post for your troubles.

https://instagr.am/p/B13Oxbbhuzz

Drain all old fuel. Put small amount ( quart) of fresh gas in
Try again.
If that doesn't work.

Take air filter off.
Squirt very small puff of ether into air intake.
Start it immediately.

If it "pops" then you have ignition spark.
Focus on fuel delivery system.
Unhook gas line to carb. Is fuel flowing?
If yes- clean carb and try again.

If no "pop" on ether then focus on ignition system.

Animal Eight 84 said:

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Drain all old fuel. Put small amount ( quart) of fresh gas in
Try again.
If that doesn't work.

Take air filter off.
Squirt very small puff of ether into air intake.
Start it immediately.

If it "pops" then you have ignition spark.
Focus on fuel delivery system.
Unhook gas line to carb. Is fuel flowing?
If yes- clean carb and try again.

If no "pop" on ether then focus on ignition system.

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Thanks man. No carb, fuel injected 4 stroke.

Gas should be good but I'll drain and try again.

Battery ok? You might get that tested. Maybe it's good enough for lights, but too weak for ignition. That was the problem with one of my Sea Doos. Got a new battery and it started right up.

I got a diagnostic computer from 4-techperformance.com for my two Sea Doos. KInda pricey, but then you can read codes.

aggielostinETX said:

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It's a 2006. It was running kinda rough and then quit running completely. I have replaced the fuel sensor, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs.

No smoke or any thing and oil looks good. No lights on dash.

Thoughts?

Post for your troubles.

https://instagr.am/p/B13Oxbbhuzz

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Also, you need to get his woman off the ignition switch.

GeorgiAg said:

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Battery ok? You might get that tested. Maybe it's good enough for lights, but too weak for ignition. That was the problem with one of my Sea Doos. Got a new battery and it started right up.

I got a diagnostic computer from 4-techperformance.com for my two Sea Doos. KInda pricey, but then you can read codes.

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Brand new battery. That was the first thing i fixed last week. It cranks now, just wont turn over.

Hmmm. Sounds like you've done all the basic stuff.

You can find a factory service manual online. You might have to pay some for it.

What do y'all do with the old gas y'all drain?

He said it wouldn't start, she is just trying to help you get turned on, I mean it turned on. Resourceful if you ask me

ConfidentAg said:

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What do y'all do with the old gas y'all drain?

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Some things are better left un-said on public forums...

ConfidentAg said:

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What do y'all do with the old gas y'all drain?

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Pour it in the dirt behind the shed.

frorge said:

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ConfidentAg said:

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What do y'all do with the old gas y'all drain?

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Some things are better left un-said on public forums...

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NM

ConfidentAg said:

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What do y'all do with the old gas y'all drain?

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I inspect it very closely for a puddle of water in the bottom of the container. Then I dump it on some weeds.

Usually ends up on an ant bed followed quickly by a lit match. Fire balls are fun.

No luck. Thanks for the ideas. I can't get to the air intake too spray into the throttle.

Off to the mechanic it goes.

May be a spark plug coil or ignition coil. I had to have all of them replaced on my mower the other day.

Ran great, then ran like absolute garbage. I did all the usuals with filters, etc and no joy. Took it to the dealer and they knew what it was after about 10 seconds of it running. 3 days later i was mowing again.

schmellba99 said:

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May be a spark plug coil or ignition coil. I had to have all of them replaced on my mower the other day.

Ran great, then ran like absolute garbage. I did all the usuals with filters, etc and no joy. Took it to the dealer and they knew what it was after about 10 seconds of it running. 3 days later i was mowing again.

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If I had a bad cylinder,coil,etc, wouldn't that lead to a rough idle? It would at least start correct?

aggielostinETX said:

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schmellba99 said:

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May be a spark plug coil or ignition coil. I had to have all of them replaced on my mower the other day.

Ran great, then ran like absolute garbage. I did all the usuals with filters, etc and no joy. Took it to the dealer and they knew what it was after about 10 seconds of it running. 3 days later i was mowing again.

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If I had a bad cylinder,coil,etc, wouldn't that lead to a rough idle? It would at least start correct?

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I am not sure, would guess it would depend on how bad the coil is. Have you tested for spark at all?

Best way to do that?

aggielostinETX said:

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Best way to do that?

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Pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug and hold it close to the nipple while cranking. If you are getting spark, you will see the jump from the sleeve on the wire to the plug nipple.

Alternatively you could pull the plug out of the cylinder and crank, if there is good spark you will see the plug fire.

I am sure there is a better way, but this what i have always done.

Kinda what i was afraid of…

Plug wires are attached to 2" water proof sleeves and plugs are 2" recessed into the block.

If I stick a plug in the wire/sleeve and hold the sleeve and crank, I should see the plug spark, right?

aggielostinETX said:

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Kinda what i was afraid of…

Plug wires are attached to 2" water proof sleeves and plugs are 2" recessed into the block.

If I stick a plug in the wire/sleeve and hold the sleeve and crank, I should see the plug spark, right?

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Yes, you should. If you have a spare plug, dont need to pull the plug out of the block - just wire and sleeve and put the spare plug in, cank. Would be easier to check all cylinders that way.

schmellba99 said:

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aggielostinETX said:

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Kinda what i was afraid of…

Plug wires are attached to 2" water proof sleeves and plugs are 2" recessed into the block.

If I stick a plug in the wire/sleeve and hold the sleeve and crank, I should see the plug spark, right?

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Yes, you should. If you have a spare plug, dont need to pull the plug out of the block - just wire and sleeve and put the spare plug in, cank. Would be easier to check all cylinders that way.

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Gracias dude

Kawasakis don't like bad gas and your situation sounds like bad gas.

Even though you drained the tank, you might still have bad gas left in your fuel rail.

I'd find a way to completely drain the fuel rail and lines leading up to the fuel rail. Tilt the trailer, do what you gotta do but avoid spilling gas in the hull.

Once you got clean gas up to the fuel rail try and start again.

You've got to have good pressure at the fuel rail or it won't start. They'l be air trapped in the fuel rail so you might have to carefully vent that off. Best way to do that is with a Schrader fitting and a length of hose. If you don't have one, be careful about spraying fuel.

Anyway, that's what I would do.

Stat Monitor Repairman said:

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Kawasakis don't like bad gas and your situation sounds like bad gas.

Even though you drained the tank, you might still have bad gas left in your fuel rail.

I'd find a way to completely drain the fuel rail and lines leading up to the fuel rail. Tilt the trailer, do what you gotta do but avoid spilling gas in the hull.

Once you got clean gas up to the fuel rail try and start again.

You've got to have good pressure at the fuel rail or it won't start. They'l be air trapped in the fuel rail so you might have to carefully vent that off. Best way to do that is with a Schrader fitting and a length of hose. If you don't have one, be careful about spraying fuel.

Anyway, that's what I would do.

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Thanks man

Have you checked the points?

I haven't started my Sea Doos yet this year and this thread is giving me anxiety.

Hope you fix your problem OP, for both of us.

Do you know anyone with a code reader? That might be helpful to see if it's throwing any codes. The one I bought was $500 which is nuts but I figure I'll save that much vs the service department over the life of the Sea Doos.

schmellba99 said:

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aggielostinETX said:

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Best way to do that?

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Pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug and hold it close to the nipple while cranking. If you are getting spark, you will see the jump from the sleeve on the wire to the plug nipple.

Alternatively you could pull the plug out of the cylinder and crank, if there is good spark you will see the plug fire.

I am sure there is a better way, but this what i have always done.

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I'm glad you made it clear what kind of nipple to hold it up too otherwise OP may have had a shocking experience!!

Just got the call from the mechanic.

The original Fuel pump was bad. But new fuel pump was wired backwards(from the factory). So mechanic had to cut and splice the wires on the harness. ETA: Technically the harness was wired wrong.

I never would have found that.

Thanks for not leaving us hanging!