I'm trying to put a thread protector on my Palmetto PA-15. Their site lists it as 1/2x28, but the protector for my sub 2000 (also listed as 1/2x28) is too short and doesn't cover all of the threads. Is this common? Can I just measure the length of the threads? I thought 1/2x28 would all be the same size

1/2x28 is the pitch, not the length. Just like a #6-32 might have a "x 1/2" at the end, designating 1/2" long.

ETA: Why would you need a thread protector on an AR15? It should have a muzzle device of some sort, whether an A2, brake, or suppressor mount. You probably don't want to be direct threading a suppressor on an AR15.

1/2x28 - 1/2 is the diameter, 28 is the threads per inch (TPI). Those two numbers alone don't tell you anything about the length or how many actual threads are present....same measurement/system as used for any bolt you might buy at the hardware store.

Thank y'all. I'm somewhat new to changing muzzle devices, so this is new to me.

Why would you not direct thread? Would the suppressor walk over time causing baffle strikes? I was planning on direct threading my s2k, TurboK has a QD.

Nothing but a protector on my Grendel

tandy miller said:

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Thank y'all. I'm somewhat new to changing muzzle devices, so this is new to me.

Why would you not direct thread? Would the suppressor walk over time causing baffle strikes? I was planning on direct threading my s2k, TurboK has a QD.

Nothing but a protector on my Grendel

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Correct on suppressor walk. Not a good idea on a semi auto unless you're frequently ensuring the suppressor is firmly seated against the barrel. I've blown up a suppressor on an AR when it walked on the threads. Thankfully I was only out the material costs since it was one I made on a Form2. I would have been pissed if it were a retail can that I'd paid the $200 tax and lots of money for.

I prefer tri-lug mounts on PCCs. QD mount for rifle caliber ARs would depend on the suppressor manufacturer and whatever mounts they support.

TurboK came with a QD brake. Put one of those on all the guns you want to run the can on.

Not sure a TurboK can run 9mm. You sure you don't mean R9?

If you did mean R9, it's a nice can on the 9mm S2K. You should be able to direct thread that, just check it so often.

You can unscrew the direct thread part in the back, and put on an ASR, Key-Mo, Plan B, or other "Bravo" mounting system. Then, attach the can to a corresponding muzzle device.

Turbo K is .223/.556 only.

Yeah my bad. I have a R9 and turbo k coming. I meant I was planning on direct threading the R9.

Will probably just get QD's for all, didn't realize that walk was that big of a deal with direct thread

Tandy I put Lantac Dragons on my rifles so that when my suppressor gets out of ATF jail I can move it rifle to rifle with a click and a twist without jeopardizing the thread integrity on the barrels. That compensator alone is pretty cool, already takes some of the kick off the 300 WM and the grendel is butter. Got it through EyeGuy because I wasn't sure which compensators/muzzle breaks were simpatico with the silencerco hybrid I am waiting on.

Direct thread is certainly the best option for me. One less connection/variable. Accuracy is consistancy.

When properly torqued, the can should be tighter after shooting than when installed.

mosdefn14 said:

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1/2x28 is the pitch, not the length. Just like a #6-32 might have a "x 1/2" at the end, designating 1/2" long.

ETA: Why would you need a thread protector on an AR15? It should have a muzzle device of some sort, whether an A2, brake, or suppressor mount. You probably don't want to be direct threading a suppressor on an AR15.

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Even before I acquired a suppressor, I exclusively used thread protectors.
My why...why extend the firearm OAL , for an unnecessary flash hider? Why run a brake, on an AR?
And I have had zero issues on direct thread use of my Hybrid 46, used only for hog hunting. Maybe I'm using sufficient torque, in installation?

Seems like either/any way is good way to go....