LPCAg said:
We will be driving from Texas. We are for sure interested in the south rim but may spend some time at the north rim as well.
If you are coming into northern AZ via I40, then consider spending a few hours (or more) at Petrified Forest N.P., located just east of Holbrook. There are two entrances with one main road that connects them, The northern entrance sits right on I40. The interstate bisects the park, and the portion north of the highway is mostly just scenic views. Enter at the northern (interstate) entrance and loop back south under the highway, and then stop at the various points. Definitely see and maybe even hike the Blue Mesa area, then stop at the southern entrance where there is a visitors center w/shops, museums, restaurant, etc. From there it is a short drive back to Holbrook and I40.
If you need a place to eat in Holbrook, consider Bienvenidos Restaurant. The name sounds Mexican, but it is really a regular restaurant that serves typical fare. The place doesn't look like much from the outside, but the food and the service is excellent. It is the only place we will eat when in Holbrook.
Winslow has a great place to stop and eat. It is the restored train station that is a block from downtown. The restaurant inside is called The Turquoise Room. Great service and food, in a very interesting locale. It is the only decent place to eat in Winslow.
Once you hit Flagstaff, you can choose to go up Hwy 89 to get to the south rim of G.C.N.P. via the western entrance, or go up 180 to 64 and on to the main entrance of the park. This route is more popular, which can make for extremely long lines to enter the National Park. Downtown Flagstaff is a nice place to visit for a few hours. There are some very nice shops of various types, and a few decent restaurants. Nothing to specifically recommend there, but there are a few good places to shop for hiking/camping stuff. We always stop at Babbitt's, Aspen Sports, and Peace Surplus when in Flag. I can't help you if you go the 180/64 route, as we never go that way.
If you go up 89 from Flag, you will go left on Hwy 64 to the eastern entrance. This turn is located in Cameron, where there is the famous Cameron Trading Post. The place is definitely a tourist trap, but it's actually an semi-interesting place to stop and stretch the legs for a few. Your kids will like the place. There are a few somewhat new fast-food places in Cameron, but we haven't tried any. Once you make the turn onto 64, the road starts to rise up to the canyon rim. Desert scrub gives way to pine trees. Along this route you will see little ramshackle stands where many Navajo sell jewelry. Quality varies a lot, but good to even great bargains can be had at these stops along the highway. Stop if you can. The Navajo are often quite poor, and could use the business. And most are very nice to talk to, as they stopped killing visitors a while back. Also, the lines to enter the National Park at the eastern entrance are much shorter than what you will encounter at the southern entrance. In fact, I have never seen more than three cars waiting in line to get in there.
If you decide to go to from the south rim to the north rim, then you will leave the park via the eastern entrance, and then go north on Hwy 89 towards Page. If you have the time, stop and see Horseshoe Bend, the parking for which is right on the highway, just south of the Page city limits. Also consider a guided tour of Antelope Canyon too, if you have the time. Page itself is rather boring, but it does have a large Walmart and numerous places to eat. Page/Horseshoe Bend is north of the turn onto 89A that you would make to go to the north rim.
Once on 89A, you will soon cross Navajo Bridge. There is a visitors center there, and you can get out and walk the old bridge that is still in place. This is a great place to spot California Condors. Look for them sitting in the metal superstructures of the bridges. The eastern end of the bridge is where the Navajo also have stands set up for selling jewelry and the like.
North Rim:
Be aware that the elevation there is almost 9k feet. You can have 90+ degree days, or 30 degree nights there in June. Take a jacket. There is only one restaurant at the National Park, and if you want to eat there, you need to make reservations *well* in advance. If you don't have reservations, then the only other thing you can do is eat fast food from the little canteen there. There is a small grocery store a mile away from the lodge where you can buy some food, however the cabins do not have any means of cooking anything you might buy. Perhaps the very large and expensive cabins have a stove or microwave, but I can tell you that the smaller cabins do not. Just be prepared for the food situation there. The south rim has a lot of infrastructure, but the north rim does not. Also be prepared for the possibility of thunder storms, which can be quite impressive up at the rim.
Other routes:
If you come up to Flag from the south via Phoenix and I17, then you should consider stopping at Sedona for lunch, and a bit of retail therapy if you are so inclined. Sedona has its faults, but in reality it really is a nice place and a nice area. Yes, Sedona is a bowl of granola, but the people are nice. From there, take Hwy 89A through Oak Creek Canyon and then up to the southern edge of Flagstaff. This route is extremely scenic, but also somewhat slow as there are lots of curves through the canyon. Allow 45 minutes minImum to make the trip, and even more if stop along the way. Once you climb out of the canyon and up onto the plateau, you will see a rest stop on the right side of the highway. Although this place is not on Native land AFAIK, the Natives (mostly Navajo) are allowed to set up stands and sell their wares there. Well worth a short bathroom break there. 89A connects to I17 right at the Flagstaff airport, and from there it is just a few miles to the city center.
Hope this helps - let me know if you need something more specific about the general area.
C