Can and "should" a 2014 F150 Ecoboost 4x4 with off-road / towing package pull this?

You probably have the power to pull it, but that is a long trailer for a short bed pickup. Definitely need antisway setup, and would avoid heavy hilly terrain. Most trucks these days can easily handle the weight of most trailers, but most forget the length can be just as big if not a bigger deal. Father in law was killed and mother in law injured several years ago in west Texas pulling a 30 foot airstream with an f250 4x4 short bed. Wind started trailer swaying and it was all over before anyone could react.

No. By the time you load generator, gas, water, food, coolers, kids, dogs, bags, and the literal hundreds of other things I'm not listing...you'll be squatting a 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel. Ask me how I know.

This one could probably work, although not as luxury still nice and plenty of sleeping spaces.

Much more boost friendly. The memories are made outside the trailer.

The fully loaded weight on that trailer is 10,400 pounds, and the max towing capacity on your truck is not much over that. I think you could tow it, but I would not be comfortable being that close to max towing capacity. Particularly in the mountains or in high winds. I'd look for a camper that was no more than 8000 pounds.

Payload is usually the bigger problem...

We need more info. Look at the sticker on the inside of your door. What is your GCWR, CURB, GVWR, and the loaded weight of your trailer.

If the numbers work it works. Don't listen to the morons they say you need a 3/4 ton to tow anything more than a popup tent camper.

TXAGFAN said:

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Payload is usually the bigger problem...

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Definitely. People forget on half tons you run out of payload long before towing capacity.

Salute The Marines said:

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We need more info. Look at the sticker on the inside of your door. What is your GCWR, CURB, GVWR, and the loaded weight of your trailer.

If the numbers work it works. Don't listen to the morons they say you need a 3/4 ton to tow anything more than a popup tent camper.

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If I'm reading this right, I don't see many 3.5L 4x4 with less than about 15,000 GCWR, not sure what that means for me.

Your GVWR based on your decal is 7,200 pounds. The hitch weight listed for that trailer is 660 pounds. Count on adding 300 pounds to that when loaded. That puts you at 960 on the hitch. That sicker gives you a payload of around 1,327 pounds. So subtract the 960 hitch weight from that. Then another 100 for your weight distribution hitch. That leaves about 267 pounds for the weight of your family and anything you'll put in the bed. If it's less than 267 you're good on payload. If that trailer fully loaded is 10,000 plus the 5400 curb weight, plus the hitch (100), plus your family then you already exceed the GCWR of 15,000 pounds. However, the dry weight is 7,600 pounds. So, that's now 13,100 combined when you include the hitch. So if you can keep your family and anything you load under 1900 pounds you're good.

Salute The Marines said:

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Your GVWR based on your decal is 7,200 pounds. The hitch weight listed for that trailer is 660 pounds. Count on adding 300 pounds to that when loaded. That puts you at 960 on the hitch. The curb weight of a 2014 F150 supercrew is about 5400 pounds. That gives you a payload of around 1,800 pounds. So subtract the 960 hitch weight from that. Then another 100 for your weight distribution hitch. That leaves about 740 pounds for the weight of your family and anything you'll put in the bed. If it's less than 740 you're good on payload. If that trailer loaded is 10,000 plus the 5400 curb weight, plus the hitch (100), plus your family then you already exceed the GCWR of 15,000 pounds. However, the dry weight is 7,600 pounds. So, that's now 13,100 combined when you include the hitch. So if you can keep your family and anything you load under 1900 pounds you're good.

Based on the numbers it's not safe.

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His payload is 1327 per the sticker on his truck.

Would this be within reason (safe)?

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/surveyor-legend/276BHLE/5748

BCStalk said:

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Lol, yes. And when safety is on the line it isn't too comforting.

Either I'm getting a new truck or we are getting the right sized smaller trailer. And I'm not in favor of a new truck quite yet. Kids are small so we can go smaller for 4-5 years.

Bob_Ag said:

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Salute The Marines said:

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Your GVWR based on your decal is 7,200 pounds. The hitch weight listed for that trailer is 660 pounds. Count on adding 300 pounds to that when loaded. That puts you at 960 on the hitch. The curb weight of a 2014 F150 supercrew is about 5400 pounds. That gives you a payload of around 1,800 pounds. So subtract the 960 hitch weight from that. Then another 100 for your weight distribution hitch. That leaves about 740 pounds for the weight of your family and anything you'll put in the bed. If it's less than 740 you're good on payload. If that trailer loaded is 10,000 plus the 5400 curb weight, plus the hitch (100), plus your family then you already exceed the GCWR of 15,000 pounds. However, the dry weight is 7,600 pounds. So, that's now 13,100 combined when you include the hitch. So if you can keep your family and anything you load under 1900 pounds you're good.

Based on the numbers it's not safe.

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His payload is 1327 per the sticker on his truck.

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Edited with the sticker number

Yes that one would be manageable. Basically, a good rule of thumb is that anything, regardless of manufacturer, with a model number that begins with 3 is too much trailer for a half ton.

Premium said:

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Would this be within reason (safe)?

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/surveyor-legend/276BHLE/5748

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I think that's as big as you want to go with that truck. I used to tow with a 2014 F150 with a camper that had a gross weight weighting of 6,900 lbs, but was only 28' tongue to bumper. That one is considerably longer, slightly heavier. The truck will pull it and the trailer brakes will help you stop it. However trailers that big with half tons, you will definitely know it's back there.

My suggestion is get the best weight distribution hitch you can find.

Airbags can also help quite a bit too.

After having gone though the progression of 16' bumper pull behind a Toyota Landcruiser to a 36' bumper pull behind a F250 to a 41' 5th wheel behind a F350 DRW in the last 5 years, I'd suggest getting the smallest and lightest trailer you think will work for you and the family to start with. Small and light has a lot of advantages and you will be a much happier camper when you get to your campsite. Half ton towable trailers command a premium price and also hold their value very well, should you decide that a bigger truck and trailer are necessary down the road. Smaller probably lets you back it into your inlaws' driveway and power from a standard 110V extension cord, should the need arise. You will also be very happy with smaller and lighter if you expect to spend most of your time in parks within a day's drive of home. Smaller trailers give you access to many more spots and spots are hard to get with the increase in popularity of camping. Unless you have the ability to plan trips and make reservations 6ish months out, smaller will give you more options with short notice. You really just need a place to sleep if you're doing weekend trips to state parks. Get a good outdoor cooking set up, some comfy bag chairs, and plan to spend the vast majority of your time outside. Just my $0.02...

As a person who's spent a lot of time on the road I agree 100% with all of this, EVERY RV has advantages and disadvantages.

Highly recommend a Blackstone for your outdoor cooking setup, they're awesome.

One of the best ultra lightweight travel trailers for your buck is the 2021 R POD trailers by Forest River. The one we used is the RP 202.

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/r-pod/RP-202/5489

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/r-pod?RegionSelected=1

I know every family is different, but one thing to consider Is what you're going to spend your time doing. If you're like my family, and pretty much the only time you're in your camper is to sleep, you don't need a big camper. If your family likes to hang out inside the camper, that's different. We upgraded after our a-frame got stolen, and we added another dog. Other than having a bedroom with a door, I wish we hadn't. I miss hauling that little a-frame around at highway speeds in my Jeep.

Premium said:

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Either I'm getting a new truck or we are getting the right sized smaller trailer.

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Congrats on the new Super Duty or the new Pop-Up Camper

Get a good weight distribution hitch setup and it will make a huge difference as well. I pull a Wildwood 26DBHD with a Silvy 1500 and haven't had any problems. RV camping is amazing and the memories will last forever! Good luck with your decision

From someone who went from a maxed out half ton with a travel trailer to an F250 and then to a 5th wheel and now an F350. I'd buy the trailer you want and then get the truck. It will save you a couple of purchases.

I would also rent a few to find out.

PS I did none of the above.

As is typical with these threads, the length of the trailer is getting overlooked, Need to take a close look at the wheelbase of the vehicle and the hitch to bumper length of the trailer. Remember you are pulling a brick wall through the wind and it will sway, weight distribution hitches and sway control are an absolute must. I pulled a Salem 26tbss all over the midwest with a 1/2 ton Megacab dodge with the 6 foot bed. plenty of truck power and with the trailer brakes added it stopped just fine as well. But getting passed by an 18 wheeler was knuckle whitening often, despite dual sway bars, weight distribution hitch, and airbags.
Edit to add:
Most manufacturers model numbers include the length of the boxed area not the length hitch to bumper, good rule of thumb is add 4 feet to the length listed in the model number for a good estimate of overall length.

Anyone know about this particular brand/model? Also, to the OP - could my F150 4x4 pull this safely?

2020 Heartland Sundance 278BH

I just bought a 2021 Sundance 278BH about three weeks ago. I tow it with a 2019 Chevy Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 V8. My numbers aren't much different than yours and it tows very easily. I use a Husky Centerline TS WD hitch with the 800-1200 pound bars. After I picked it up I was doing 70 on I35 with zero sway, even when passing or being passed by 18 wheelers. After getting it loaded, including carrying a Hobie Outback kayak on a rack over my bed, I weighed in at some truck stop scales and was still well under my max weight and payload. Your truck should be fine.

We love the Sundance after having only forest river trailers for the past 15 years. The finish and the quality seem much butter. The 278BH is a great floorplan and we love ours. Taking it from Parker County down to Bluewater RV resort by Surfside beach this weekend.

That's why I love my 2019 Silverado. 1900 payload.

If I've got a 24-28 foot trailer I still wouldn't go over 5500-5800 pounds dry.

I would go smaller with that truck. My Titan Pro4X is max 9230# and I am at 82% of that weight dry. I believe folks in the know recommend being at 80 or 85% so I'm close. I have an Excel calculator that I picked up on a Grand Design page that you just plug the numbers in if you want it. Need an email.

I'm towing a 2021 keystone Cougar 29BHS. GVWR on it is 8800 amd it's 34'-1" tongue to bumper. It's a sail in the wind that's for sure. I'm towing with a 2020 F150 XLT 3.5EB with the 6.5 bed and Max tow package. Couldn't imagine doing it with a shorter wheelbase. Best thing I did was run it over the CAT scales a few times which allowed me to get all my weights so I know how to dial in my blue ox sway pro. It's worked great since. But I can definitely still feel it when an 18 wheeler passes me.

AceAggie05 said:

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I know every family is different, but one thing to consider Is what you're going to spend your time doing. If you're like my family, and pretty much the only time you're in your camper is to sleep, you don't need a big camper. If your family likes to hang out inside the camper, that's different. We upgraded after our a-frame got stolen, and we added another dog. Other than having a bedroom with a door, I wish we hadn't. I miss hauling that little a-frame around at highway speeds in my Jeep.

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This is what we considered when buying a camper. We wanted something with just enough space that we wouldn't be on top of each other, but also wanted something well within the tow rating that would make travelling a breeze with my 1/2 ton Chevy. We've been very pleased with our Keystone Passport 239ML. The dry weight is right at 4,000 lbs and at 25' it's compact enough that sway is hardly noticeable with a distribution hitch.

Payload will be your limitation for sure. Big Truck Big RV has some good videos on tongue weights as well. It's surprising how different the tongue weights are in person vs what is advertised. The 650lb is probably for the bottom of the line model, with out propane tanks.. If you've got a second A/C up front, two batteries and two full 20lb tanks you could be higher than 650lb.

Also shameless plug, if anyone is looking for a used WD hitch, see my classifieds listing:
https://texags.com/forums/50/topics/3201280

I owned three different trailers when my kids were growing up. Each one progressively lighter. All in the 24 - 29 ft range. Bunk house. Pulled them with a 1/2 ton suburban and then F150. When going over steep mountain passes at 25MPH in 2nd gear my kids used to hide. It can be done safely if you mind the limits. But you will always wish you had a lighter trailer back there.
I also determined that most non airstream ($$$) type trailers are pretty much the same quality of construction. Lots of plastic, cheap particle board and other easily breakable components. Slide outs are nice but add a lot of weight. With a couple of solar panels you can leave the generator at home. Get above 6000 ft in the summer time.