In the final planning stages of a 30x60 barn, being built for the purpose of storing a classic truck, boat, and over flow space when doing outdoor parties.

What are some barn "must haves" that I haven't thought of?

Current list:

Plumbing:

- Water cut off to drain lines
- Exterior hose bib for washing
- Sloped concrete apron for washing
- PEX lines
- Small softener for spot free water

Electrical:

- Outlets, outlets, outlets
- RV plug
- Welder plug
- LED overhead lights
- Plug in the eves for string lights/christmas lights


Other confirmed:

- location to mount compressor with air lines running to both parking locations
- Big A** fan to move some air
- 12' roll up doors
- windows for natural light

Other considering:

- ceiling mounted propane space heaters


What am I missing? Suggestions?

If you are building new, have it spray foamed. Even if you don't plan on running full AC (I would for that size tbh), this will help keep it much cooler. Running a few nice heavy window units while your out there can make a world of difference too. Especially in your work area.

Flooring, get a nice garage anti skid / anti oil stain floor coating over the concrete.

If you plan on doing a decent amount of work with tools, get a built in nice tool cabinet/bench to work on. Plan out your big tools storage whether that is wall mounted to a peg board, in drawers etc..

Storage racks from ceiling or on top of a crossbeam section to store totes etc. is always nice.

Parties, get speakers mounted and wires run so you can have music etc. throughout. Set up some input jacks in a corner to hook whatever audio output into for the night.

TV's and a cable run for sports watching while out there?

This site gave me lots of ideas when I built mine.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/index.php

Thanks!

With the absence of living quarters, I have a lot less "things" to consider. But still want a functional work/play space.

Think about a good location to mount a hoist that you can back your truck under and consider beefing up a truss or crossmember for if necessary

dead zip 01 said:

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Think about a good location to mount a hoist that you can back your truck under and consider beefing up a truss or crossmember for if necessary

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+1 on the hoist, this was how I pulled my boat motor a couple weeks ago

Electrical: way to plug in a generator to run your whole barn.

Probably 20-30% more open space than you think you need. Everything else is just creature comforts.

Put the air compressor in a shed room outside, so you don't have to listen to the damn thing.

If you're getting a generator, put it there, too.

If you have an RV, put in an RV plug, so you can run the A/C and fridge as you prepare for a trip

Some kind of a tornado shelter/strong room? Like a small cinder block area you can cram into if you're at risk for twisters.

Jason C. said:

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Some kind of a tornado shelter/strong room? Like a small cinder block area you can cram into if you're at risk for twisters.

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Put the air compressor in that, so if it blows up, it is contained, as well as quieter.

This thread is relevant to my interest. I am planning on adding a heavy beam with an electric hoist. I am tired of dealing with heavy crap by myself.

Following just for fun. One of these days I guess.

Lots of good things already said. I have built three now in my life. If you are doing red iron building have the contractor put the insulation in with the vinyl white covering. It will look much nicer than the blown in and you can clean it.
Don't forget to plan on your outside lights as well.
I put in doors on each side where I can just pull through with my boat and horse trailer.
Adds door cost but beats backing in and when you have your parties you can open them up. Make sure overhead doors are insulated.
The first 40x60 I built I put in windows and sky lights. Bad mistake as it really caused building to heat up in the summer heat.
Had only one 4x4 window in the rest.
Plan on a mezzanine for storage.
Make sure you plan tall enough eve height and overhead door height for boats with T-tops or tractors.
Put in a small septic and have a sink, hot water and a John.
Expansion joints in your concrete floor.
If you are going to wall some areas have the builder put horizontal C perlins on the floor, at 4 ft up and 8' up. Then you can wall it with tongue and groove plywood and not have to mess with framing it out. I used 3/4 and can hang anything I want anywhere.
Build it 40x60. You'll be glad you did.

For me and my shop the must haves are 100A service minimum, multiple welding outlets, bathroom, and two post vehicle lift. Everything else I can add, modify, or fab as needed.

have them install water lines throughout the floor before they pour the concrete. Also do it in the pad in front of the shop. Install a water heater and you will have heated floors that will radiate heat in the shop in the winter. The heated pad outside of the shop will melt snow and ice also.

How big a water heater are we talking here? Based on quick back of the envelope math, it would take 1000 Btu/h (300-ish W) per yard just to raise the temp 1 F, assuming a specific heat of .25 and 4000 lb yard density.

Two ductless mini splits

I have a 36k with spray foam insulation on my 30x40 and it's awesome.

Central AC/Heat. Insulated building.

That question is above my pay grade, but a lot of guys with shops (commercial and private) around here are using a heated floor for their heat source. Most recommended using a condensing boiler to heat the water. It will be 10 degrees outside but they will have a warm shop with a nice warm floor to work on, plus no snow to clear in front of their doors.

Interesting recommendations!

- Not in a snow/ice area. So the heated flooring isn't in the plans.

- Mini splits are awesome...but there is a point where a barn becomes more than a barn. And IMO, thats when HVAC gets involved. I suppose I grew up "cooling" my dads barn by opening all the roll up doors to get a cross breeze.

- Great call on the C perlins at 4ft and 8ft to wall some areas for workbenches.

- Mezzanine for storage will come if/when we build out a little room with bunk beds.

- Restroom may be complicated. I can't just do a small septic, as I live in rocky country and have aerobic systems. Would have to trench to tie into house septic and use a lift pump. Not sure the juice is worth the squeeze on this, but its worth pricing.

AgEng98 said:

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How big a water heater are we talking here? Based on quick back of the envelope math, it would take 1000 Btu/h (300-ish W) per yard just to raise the temp 1 F, assuming a specific heat of .25 and 4000 lb yard density.

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Radiant heating is not a new concept... and you circulate the heated water, not just pump it through. Typically using a boiler.

And as with all things human, a heated floor is more about PERCEIVED temperature more than actual temp. It's about how much warmer it feels. Same reason a fork at room temp from your silverware drawer feels colder than the cloth seat you sit on, even though they're both at room temperature.

This is extreme, but you might find some good ideas here.

Small hot water heater with hot water faucet outside for washing coolers and anything else too large for a sink.

Check your electric service amperage to make sure your current service can handle the additional load. May need to upgrade or put in a second service.

fridge space for your natural light

I prefer over head style doors to roll up doors.

Ceiling vents work great.

I wish I considered painting the red iron. It is only painted with a primer. If your builder drags their feet with the install it will get a light coat of rust.

Insulation makes a big difference.

The reason metal feels colder is because it's a better conductor and heat flows out of your hand. But a heated floor isn't just radiant. It's natural convection off the floor that does the heavy lifting. Most "radiant" heating systems have convection as a significant portion of their output.

But to my point, is that yes, a rather large condensing boiler (as pointed out in the follow up) would be needed for something like this, not a "water heater". These systems really only work if you insulate the slab also - the ground is a great heat sink.

Wood burning stove inside?

Yes. Roll up doors not as good as overhead.
Also while doing the wiring you can easily pre wire each door for an opener someday.

There is another option to the John/wash room. Forget the hot water and just run your grey water outside and you can get a toilet that does not use water and turns everything to ash. My uncle has this in his garage in Hunt Texas as he did not want the additional expense of a septic. The toilet has no smell at all.