A couple years ago, I lost mine to the roots in a freeze not near as bad as this. They came back in couple seasons. I am expecting to replace them this time around.fire09 said:
Asked my buddy in NJ about pool prep, he said leave all the pumps running 24/7 during freeze and everything should be fine.
Anyone covering oleanders up with blankets, should they be ok during freeze, or should I plan on replacing all my privacy bushes in a week?
Preparing around the house for unusually cold weather
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Last: 1 yr ago by AustinCountyAg
Potcake said:
I posted in other thread also. Our backflow preventer has been covered but I think it may already be frozen because the valves won't turn. I'm guessing I need to heat it up and close the valves. Which of the four bleed screws do I need to open?
Open all 4 drain cocks. Leave the two shutoff valves half closed.
If electric water heater, you need to turn the power to it off if you're are emptying faucets. The elements in the water heater can burn out if there is no water in it.Warsteiner said:Sazerac said:
Not sure if serious...
Yeah, I should've specified.
Assuming turning off main water line and opening faucets to drain: Would there be any issues with the water heater in the attic? I wouldn't think so, but I figured I'd ask.
Sorry if a dumb question.... lol
Empty your rain gage and turn upside down
Dale Earnhardts Stache
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AG
What's the consensus on the water heater? Leave the power to it on?
Shutting water off at street and draining lines as I'm out of town.
Shutting water off at street and draining lines as I'm out of town.
I'm nowhere near an experienced plumber but I have winterized our 100-year-old home in Yellowstone about 2-3 times each year over the past decade and can share some experience I have had - with so far, never a problem. Obviously we have temps stay near 30 below for weeks and face many of the problems described here (except the swimming pool - lol).
While some professionals may have contrary advice, I strongly recommend against what some have suggested here about turning off the water at the main line and opening the faucets and draining the lines. The problem with that action is that you will NOT come near to draining the water in all important areas (joints and valves) unless you blow the lines with pressurized air. The slightest drop of water at a ball valve will crack upon thaw so it is imperative to remove all water if you aren't going to let the water dribble/flow. Furthermore, this bowing of the lines must be done until all moisture no longer is visible when the air is released through each faucet (including other areas like the washer and dishwasher). This takes patience and a lot of time (I run about 50-60psi for about 45 minutes throughout the house using a compressor/tank that we permanently installed in the interior).
My point is, either let the water stream out all outlets or blow the lines out entirely. Turning off the water without blowing will be a costly mistake.
Granted, BCS isn't Yellowstone but for the coming week, it is darn near acting like it's stepchild. Again, there are likely more experts on this board however the principle above had worked flawlessly for us and those colleagues of ours in the area who skimped on being so tedious, have had their share of broken valves and pipes.
Hope this helps.
While some professionals may have contrary advice, I strongly recommend against what some have suggested here about turning off the water at the main line and opening the faucets and draining the lines. The problem with that action is that you will NOT come near to draining the water in all important areas (joints and valves) unless you blow the lines with pressurized air. The slightest drop of water at a ball valve will crack upon thaw so it is imperative to remove all water if you aren't going to let the water dribble/flow. Furthermore, this bowing of the lines must be done until all moisture no longer is visible when the air is released through each faucet (including other areas like the washer and dishwasher). This takes patience and a lot of time (I run about 50-60psi for about 45 minutes throughout the house using a compressor/tank that we permanently installed in the interior).
My point is, either let the water stream out all outlets or blow the lines out entirely. Turning off the water without blowing will be a costly mistake.
Granted, BCS isn't Yellowstone but for the coming week, it is darn near acting like it's stepchild. Again, there are likely more experts on this board however the principle above had worked flawlessly for us and those colleagues of ours in the area who skimped on being so tedious, have had their share of broken valves and pipes.
Hope this helps.
what about underground sprinklers? I turned my valve off and wrapped it with a towel...its about six inches under the surface in an access box with no insulation...mhnatt said:
I'm nowhere near an experienced plumber but I have winterized our 100-year-old home in Yellowstone about 2-3 times each year over the past decade and can share some experience I have had - with so far, never a problem. Obviously we have temps stay near 30 below for weeks and face many of the problems described here (except the swimming pool - lol).
While some professionals may have contrary advice, I strongly recommend against what some have suggested here about turning off the water at the main line and opening the faucets and draining the lines. The problem with that action is that you will NOT come near to draining the water in all important areas (joints and valves) unless you blow the lines with pressurized air. The slightest drop of water at a ball valve will crack upon thaw so it is imperative to remove all water if you aren't going to let the water dribble/flow. Furthermore, this bowing of the lines must be done until all moisture no longer is visible when the air is released through each faucet (including other areas like the washer and dishwasher). This takes patience and a lot of time (I run about 50-60psi for about 45 minutes throughout the house using a compressor/tank that we permanently installed in the interior).
My point is, either let the water stream out all outlets or blow the lines out entirely. Turning off the water without blowing will be a costly mistake.
Granted, BCS isn't Yellowstone but for the coming week, it is darn near acting like it's stepchild. Again, there are likely more experts on this board however the principle above had worked flawlessly for us and those colleagues of ours in the area who skimped on being so tedious, have had their share of broken valves and pipes.
Hope this helps.
An empty electric water heater can burn up the elements, so power it off.Dale Earnhardts Stache said:
What's the consensus on the water heater? Leave the power to it on?
Shutting water off at street and draining lines as I'm out of town.
What do you think? Two c9 bulbs inside inner cover with remaining around it then covered with styrofoam cooler.
I'm in Katy. I'm thinking about shutting off the water to the house before nightfall and draining the pipes. I don't want any burst pipes,. Is this overkill?
76Ag said:
I'm in Katy. I'm thinking about shutting off the water to the house before nightfall and draining the pipes. I don't want any burst pipes,. Is this overkill?
Problem is draining pipes. Not sure you really can with out pressure.
76Ag said:
I'm in Katy. I'm thinking about shutting off the water to the house before nightfall and draining the pipes. I don't want any burst pipes,. Is this overkill?
Not overkill, but definitely a mistake. You must either blow the water out or let the water move by a continual stream. Otherwise, joints and valves will break during the thaw.
mhnatt said:76Ag said:
I'm in Katy. I'm thinking about shutting off the water to the house before nightfall and draining the pipes. I don't want any burst pipes,. Is this overkill?
Not overkill, but definitely a mistake. You must either blow the water out or let the water move by a continual stream. Otherwise, joints and valves will break during the thaw.
Plus your hot water heater, are you draining that? I'd just keep water moving through the pipes.
Wheatables02 said:what about underground sprinklers? I turned my valve off and wrapped it with a towel...its about six inches under the surface in an access box with no insulation...mhnatt said:
I'm nowhere near an experienced plumber but I have winterized our 100-year-old home in Yellowstone about 2-3 times each year over the past decade and can share some experience I have had - with so far, never a problem. Obviously we have temps stay near 30 below for weeks and face many of the problems described here (except the swimming pool - lol).
While some professionals may have contrary advice, I strongly recommend against what some have suggested here about turning off the water at the main line and opening the faucets and draining the lines. The problem with that action is that you will NOT come near to draining the water in all important areas (joints and valves) unless you blow the lines with pressurized air. The slightest drop of water at a ball valve will crack upon thaw so it is imperative to remove all water if you aren't going to let the water dribble/flow. Furthermore, this bowing of the lines must be done until all moisture no longer is visible when the air is released through each faucet (including other areas like the washer and dishwasher). This takes patience and a lot of time (I run about 50-60psi for about 45 minutes throughout the house using a compressor/tank that we permanently installed in the interior).
My point is, either let the water stream out all outlets or blow the lines out entirely. Turning off the water without blowing will be a costly mistake.
Granted, BCS isn't Yellowstone but for the coming week, it is darn near acting like it's stepchild. Again, there are likely more experts on this board however the principle above had worked flawlessly for us and those colleagues of ours in the area who skimped on being so tedious, have had their share of broken valves and pipes.
Hope this helps.
This
That's kind of redneck, dude.
Nice.
I like the trash can and lights. Thought about hooking up a space heater inside garage where I have another one set up for the bib outside. I might have to move more **** than I really want to though.
I like the trash can and lights. Thought about hooking up a space heater inside garage where I have another one set up for the bib outside. I might have to move more **** than I really want to though.
Potcake said:Texasyankee said:
Put isopropyl alcohol in your washer fluid tank on your vehicles to prevent freezing. It's the same thing they put in the "winterized" washer fluid.
Even if garaged?
Depends on how long it's outside. Also, slushy washer fluid is like Otter pops about to freeze. If you shock them, or jar them they will do that weird freezing thing you see people doing on youtube.
Running pool nonstop, but any suggestions if power goes out?
Bullpen Chias said:
Running pool nonstop, but any suggestions if power goes out?
With a 30 minute rolling blackout, do nothing. For extended outages You will need to pull your electrical disconnect, pull all the drain plugs on pump, chlorinator and air relief on filter, open the relief faucets. Throw the heaviest blankets and tarps you can find on your system. Antifreeze into your pipes is the nuclear option, everything else can be reversed In a few minutes once power is restored.
what if its already frozen? just went to check mine and all the plugs are frozen solid and pool iced over. i turned off all power to it, but what should i do next if power is restored? in hindsight, wish i had drained it, but they said it was just going to be rolling so i took the risk.
Or put a tarp and or blanket over the pool equipment, fire up a gasoline generator and put a bright light under the tarp. I have a garage drop light with a 150 watt bulb. Led bulbs do not get hot.fire09 said:Bullpen Chias said:
Running pool nonstop, but any suggestions if power goes out?
With a 30 minute rolling blackout, do nothing. For extended outages You will need to pull your electrical disconnect, pull all the drain plugs on pump, chlorinator and air relief on filter, open the relief faucets. Throw the heaviest blankets and tarps you can find on your system. Antifreeze into your pipes is the nuclear option, everything else can be reversed In a few minutes once power is restored.
Could also use another heat source or small electric heater under the tarp/blanket.
So I trickled water both at my kitchen sink and the bathroom at the farthest end of the house. I wake up this morning and I'm getting hot and cold water in all my faucets, but my kitchen sink has low water pressure. All the other faucets seem fine. Do y'all think the pipe to my kitchen sink is partially frozen or has a crack? It is definitely making me nervous.
Edit: Nevermind, it appears there was just some sediment in the faucet that was blocking the aerator. I'm guessing it came from the bottom of the hot water heater or something.
Edit: Nevermind, it appears there was just some sediment in the faucet that was blocking the aerator. I'm guessing it came from the bottom of the hot water heater or something.
Is the "rolling" part of the plan not standard across the board? We're in New Braunfels with NBU and have had no power for random increments with seemingly no rhyme or reason. Power will be on for an hour then off for 30, the on for 20, off for an hour, then on for 45min, etc...
Parents across town with PEC have never lost power.
Parents across town with PEC have never lost power.
chris2010 said:
So I trickled water both at my kitchen sink and the bathroom at the farthest end of the house. I wake up this morning and I'm getting hot and cold water in all my faucets, but my kitchen sink has low water pressure. All the other faucets seem fine. Do y'all think the pipe to my kitchen sink is partially frozen or has a crack? It is definitely making me nervous.
Probably pressure issues from your MUD from everyone dripping.
First winter with a pool. Patchy ice is beginning to form on in areas of surface of salt water pool. Pump is running continuously. Are there any concerns or anything I should do at this stage of the game? Outside of Memphis with next temps above freezing forecast on Saturday.
If you lose power you'll want to turn off power to the equipment and drain the system. I found these videos helpful.kdm_01 said:
First winter with a pool. Patchy ice is beginning to form on in areas of surface of salt water pool. Pump is running continuously. Are there any concerns or anything I should do at this stage of the game? Outside of Memphis with next temps above freezing forecast on Saturday.
I think this is the case. I am guessing the policy is voluntary at this point and based on provider participation somehow? I am hearing the same around NW and South Austin, and I have power in Round Rock so far.
Class of '93 - proud Dad of a '22 grad and a '26 student!
I hope this wasn't anyone here. No prep for the back flow.
So far so good with lights on spigot.
I thought I was really well prepared until I went to get water out of the fridge this morning. Waterline runs into the attic. I hope this isn't going to be painful.
Mine was frozen too. I pulled the fridge out and it runs into a small encasing in the wall. The encasing was real cold so I insulated it with spray foam and a towel. Then I used a hairdryer for about 4-5 minutes on the valve and it works again....no issues.Average Joe said:
I thought I was really well prepared until I went to get water out of the fridge this morning. Waterline runs into the attic. I hope this isn't going to be painful.
Every few years when I decide to turn my water to the fridge off, the stupid valve always breaks. Installed a new one on Saturday and disconnected the line to the fridge. I have had it freeze before without issue (copper line), but didn't want to chance it.Average Joe said:
I thought I was really well prepared until I went to get water out of the fridge this morning. Waterline runs into the attic. I hope this isn't going to be painful.
When I hook it up again, I'll verify that there are no breaks before I walk away.
Question for the experts.
I've got two sinks and a few toilets that seem to have frozen up. 6 or 7 other sinks, showers, etc are running and fine.
I've turned on all the frozen sinks and waiting but what do I do next? Just wait and look for water leaks?
My house has each water outlet (sinks, showers, etc) with an individual shut off. Should I selectively shut off each item that is frozen up or wait and see?
Also - issues seem to be with hot water vs. cold water. Water heater is in the attic but I went up there and it was still in the 40s where I could stand.
I've got two sinks and a few toilets that seem to have frozen up. 6 or 7 other sinks, showers, etc are running and fine.
I've turned on all the frozen sinks and waiting but what do I do next? Just wait and look for water leaks?
My house has each water outlet (sinks, showers, etc) with an individual shut off. Should I selectively shut off each item that is frozen up or wait and see?
Also - issues seem to be with hot water vs. cold water. Water heater is in the attic but I went up there and it was still in the 40s where I could stand.
My understanding is that if one freezes open the faucet and pray.
I have a frozen hot water line to the kitchen sink. Line runs down the outside wall of the house from the attic.h_town_ags said:
Question for the experts.
I've got two sinks and a few toilets that seem to have frozen up. 6 or 7 other sinks, showers, etc are running and fine.
I've turned on all the frozen sinks and waiting but what do I do next? Just wait and look for water leaks?
My house has each water outlet (sinks, showers, etc) with an individual shut off. Should I selectively shut off each item that is frozen up or wait and see?
Also - issues seem to be with hot water vs. cold water. Water heater is in the attic but I went up there and it was still in the 40s where I could stand.
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