I've heard mixed opinions on this... do you set metal posts in concrete or just drive them in 5' or so?

COSCAG67 said:

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I've heard mixed opinions on this... do you set metal posts in concrete or just drive them in 5' or so?

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You get rid of the goats.

18"-24" is adequate. Use concrete on corners (stretch posts 3' deep).

Old RV Ag said:

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COSCAG67 said:

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I've heard mixed opinions on this... do you set metal posts in concrete or just drive them in 5' or so?

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You get rid of the goats.

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Compromise, lets drive the goats 5' into the earth.

FatZilla said:

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Old RV Ag said:

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COSCAG67 said:

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I've heard mixed opinions on this... do you set metal posts in concrete or just drive them in 5' or so?

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You get rid of the goats.

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Compromise, lets drive the goats 5' into the earth.

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On a bed of coals no less. Mmmmm, Cabrito!!

#GoatsLivesMatter

COSCAG67 said:

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I've heard mixed opinions on this... do you set metal posts in concrete or just drive them in 5' or so?

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Dang! How long are the posts??????

He cuts a 30 footer into thirds is all i know. He says if you set it in concrete it will come out due to the soils. He says he doesnt care how i do it, but that's his recommendation.

I have another guy from the other side of I35 around burnet saying to put them in 3-4' concrete, so i have no idea.

He = builder

Martin Cash said:

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COSCAG67 said:

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I've heard mixed opinions on this... do you set metal posts in concrete or just drive them in 5' or so?

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Dang! How long are the posts??????

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Goats be like tyrannosaurus rex

Put your pipe in the ground and fill with concrete except the top 8-10" and fill the rest of the hole with native soil. This keeps the ground from pushing the concrete out of the ground as it expands and contracts.

I usually dig the hole as deep as my auger goes. Think it's almost 4 foot. I don't really have any issues except when I put concrete in the ground when it's pretty wet. When it dries the ground shrinks and your post will lean some until it rains again.

COSCAG67 said:

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He cuts a 30 footer into thirds is all i know. He says if you set it in concrete it will come out due to the soils. He says he doesnt care how i do it, but that's his recommendation.

I have another guy from the other side of I35 around burnet saying to put them in 3-4' concrete, so i have no idea.

He = builder

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I've built miles of fence in heavy soils. Set your corners in concrete, 3' deep, use double H braces no narrower than 6', and roll on.

B-1 83 said:

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COSCAG67 said:

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He cuts a 30 footer into thirds is all i know. He says if you set it in concrete it will come out due to the soils. He says he doesnt care how i do it, but that's his recommendation.

I have another guy from the other side of I35 around burnet saying to put them in 3-4' concrete, so i have no idea.

He = builder

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I've built miles of fence in heavy soils. Set your corners in concrete, 3' deep, use double H braces no narrower than 6', and roll on.

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This is what we normally do, and it works fine. I've had more issues with braces in sand than clay. I've also had good luck with just driving the brace and line posts 3'-4' into clay with no concrete. In other words, on a properly spaced and constructed fence, they're both fine approaches.

If your fence builder says concrete is the only way to go, he probably doesn't have a driver. If he insists concrete is awful, he probably just doesn't want to handle the heavy bags of sakrete.

https://efotg.sc.egov.usda.gov/references/public/TX/382_Fence_Specification-Revised_2015.pdf

All depends of the area and depth of clay. Ours starts at 16'' after the top soil. We drive 8 foot posts 3 1/2 feet in the ground and never use concrete. The Danuser hammer drives posts up to 8'' in diameter into every soil type we have tried. Second on double h braces. At least 8 feet apart.

My experience in Sparta sands is 3' depth on wood posts and properly constructed H and double H braces aren't going anywhere in a long long time. That would mean 6-8 foot cross beams. Might as well do 8.

CABRITOS!!

My recommendation for 18"-24" depth was for metal tee-posts, used as line posts, which is more than adequate in tight/clay soils. Pipe posts are only necessary for H- braces/corners. Not sure we're talking about the same thing. But goats don't require more than T posts to hold up wire.

Every knee shall bow and every tongue shall confess

Yes they do. Check the market.

Every knee shall bow and every tongue shall confess

I'll keep my goat opinions to myself, but the place we hunted on that had them had 4ft cattle panel with 2 strands of barbed wire around the top on cedar posts with t-post stays. Also had a mule and 2 GPs to manage the heard. Coyotes had a field day on them, but they didn't get out much.

Make sure you buy the goats that faint and fall down, that way if your fence isn't working or falls down you can just scare your goats and then grab then when they fall down... no fence needed

I set my posts 2' or 3'. Bell bottom the hole, concrete. I did this in nearly solid clay and I have yet to have a post come out for my high tensile fences. I've done it with dead man braces and h braces. It ain't moving if you do it right.

I'd dig as deep as you can though. Shallow straight holes will heave.