I've heard pros and cons to clipping. What's your opinion?

Red Pear Realty said:

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What is your plan to drill and clip the baffles once you get your stamp?

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I'm gonna start with just drilling, and see if I'm happy with it. All the cones are center marked, so i'm just gonna use a drill press with a vise to hold everything.

If I'm not happy with the results, I may clip. If I do clip, I'll probably just use a dremel to make a scalloped groove at an angle. As much as I spent on the internals, I don't wanna end up with a rectangular hack job.

Wanted to bump this.

Finally got all my internals lined up, and got a scheduled trip to borrow some time on a lathe to finish everything out.

Before I do that, though, I need to get the tube engraved.

I've gotten a couple quotes for $80-$100 to get the engraving done, but didn't know if anyone else had some leads.

I could do it myself with a dremel, but I don't wanna have piss poor markings truly.

I was also thinking about stamping the markings, but the tube wall is only around 1/16", so I worry about deformation of the tube. If I could make this work it'd be the best, cause I already got 1/4" stamps laying around.

Thought about stamping on a curved plate and then braze/tig that onto the tube, but that would be adding a lot of work. If I go the braze route i'd have to buy titanium brazing rods and flux, so it wouldn't be saving that much money either.

Anybody got any other suggestions?

Tar Heel State Firearms. $30 for laser engraving. You can also do your muzzle end cap instead of the tube.

UPDATE!

I spent a lot of time looking around the internet trying to figure out the best way to cut my baffles after getting my stamps. I thought about joining a Makerspace and learning to use a metal lathe, but the wait times to get into a lathe class and get approved to use the lathes were around 3-4 months out. So that was a no go. Then I looked for metal lathes on Craigslist and realized that was way out of budget. Finally I ended up with a Harbor Freight Drill Press (surprisingly of all the drill presses I researched online, this one had lowest speed at 600 RPM). The advantage to using a lathe is that the baffles get cut a lot more precisely. The advantage to using a drill press is that it's a lot cheaper. In the end, I think the drill press route went fine for me. Definitely not perfect, but it got the job done.

22 Silencer Purchases to date:

Government Theft, I mean tax stamp - $200
DM Select Titanium 22 Kit - $199
Harbor Freight Drill Press - $108 after 25% off coupon
Harbor Freight Drill Press Vice - $17 (didn't really fit on the drill press evenly?, wouldn't order again)
Cobalt Drill Bit - $23 (drilled my 22 baffles to 9/32 or 0.28125)
McMaster Carr Steel Rod - $6 (used to check drilling accuracy)
Subtotal - $547

Next, I shipped it off to NC Engravers to get Cerakoted and Engraved. Their charges:
Engrave the tube - $25
Cerakote the tube - $30
Cerakote each end cap - $15

Grand Total - $632 (All in this was only slightly cheaper than buying a new one, but that's not really why I did it. I learned some new things, got to play with some new tools, and will have a fully baked silencer in hand about 8 months faster than if I had gone the form 4 route. Overall, thats a win for me.)

Drill baby, drill!












And I just realized I didn't get any pictures of the baffles post drilling to their full diameter. I'll do that tonight.

Thanks for the info Red Pear. I'm in the process as well, and I'm considering a 22lr specific. Which tube kit did you buy, the 1.125OD x6?

I have been trying to get an idea of the sizes of the factory built suppressors, it seems like the 22lrs are about 1inch OD and about 4-5" long.

I would love to hear how it turns out. Any idea what the final weight will be?

Yeah I bought the 1.125" x 6" 22 LR kit from Diversified Machine.

https://diversifiedmachine.us/product/select-titanium-kit/

No clue on final weight, but I will definitely weigh it out when I get it back from NC Engravers. They received it today. I've heard their turnaround time is really fast, but we'll see.

A.G.S. said:

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Wanted to bump this.

Finally got all my internals lined up, and got a scheduled trip to borrow some time on a lathe to finish everything out.

Before I do that, though, I need to get the tube engraved.

I've gotten a couple quotes for $80-$100 to get the engraving done, but didn't know if anyone else had some leads.

I could do it myself with a dremel, but I don't wanna have piss poor markings truly.

I was also thinking about stamping the markings, but the tube wall is only around 1/16", so I worry about deformation of the tube. If I could make this work it'd be the best, cause I already got 1/4" stamps laying around.

Thought about stamping on a curved plate and then braze/tig that onto the tube, but that would be adding a lot of work. If I go the braze route i'd have to buy titanium brazing rods and flux, so it wouldn't be saving that much money either.

Anybody got any other suggestions?

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Turn an aluminum bar stock down to the ID of your tube, slide the tube over it, then stamp. No deformation of the tube to worry about, and it won't cost much (if anything - the shop you go to may have some scrap laying around) to do it.

Red Pear, where did you get the housing for the baffle to hold it while drilling?

Make that yourself? I'd like to get one.

DM sent it with my kit. I think SD tactical sells them also.

I just realized I never shared the finished product. I put about 400 rounds through it for the first time this weekend, and I'm really happy with it. Its quiet--really the only noise you hear is the action cycling, so I guess I need to test it out on a bolt action rifle next...

Engraving and cerakoting from NC Engravers


This angle makes the drilling look really off center but its actually fairly close to center




On it's first host

That looks awesome! Cool thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna have to make my own out of wood or something. I picked my kit up from form1builder and it did not come with one.

Yeah I had to build one from wood for the end cap that didn't fit in the metal clamp tool. I just took a 1x3 and drilled out a 1" spot to *gently jam it down into so I could drill it out. Worked fine.