Does anyone have some specs (preferably Aaron Franklin's design) for turning 1,000 gallon tanks into pits? I've seen his video which is helpful but would like the specs too. Thanks.
Design Specs for BBQ pit?
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Last: 5 yr ago by DriftwoodAg
I built my own in 2013 and 2014. At the time, the Smokering forum was pretty active and extremely helpful. I'd go there for information, starting with the calculator threads.
BBQ Calculator
http://thesmokering.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=30&sid=0e22aea13d6ce477a493aab0b3d2a6d1
k.a.m.'s Saga
The 2nd link will have pages of threads, and the last link was very inspirational for me. That forum wound up being over-moderated (particularly with photos) and I think it kinda died over time (plus I think the folks that were originally very active got their pits built and didn't need to be as active).
That said, general rule is that the firebox should be about 1/3 of the volume of the tank, the size of opening between the firebox and cook chamber matters, and the size and length of the exhaust pipe matter.
Here's the one I built (though not complete and it's been modified since these pictures):
This design is going to be different than Aaron Franklin's -- his was actually much less complex. I have plans to build another backyard cooker, but no time to do it. I'll have a smaller version that incorporates some of Franklin's ideas with the design I did. This was a hybrid to allow for any of conventional, tuning plates conventional, or reverse flow -- which is why it has two exhaust stacks.
If you've got any specific questions, I'd love to help out!
BBQ Calculator
http://thesmokering.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=30&sid=0e22aea13d6ce477a493aab0b3d2a6d1
k.a.m.'s Saga
The 2nd link will have pages of threads, and the last link was very inspirational for me. That forum wound up being over-moderated (particularly with photos) and I think it kinda died over time (plus I think the folks that were originally very active got their pits built and didn't need to be as active).
That said, general rule is that the firebox should be about 1/3 of the volume of the tank, the size of opening between the firebox and cook chamber matters, and the size and length of the exhaust pipe matter.
Here's the one I built (though not complete and it's been modified since these pictures):
This design is going to be different than Aaron Franklin's -- his was actually much less complex. I have plans to build another backyard cooker, but no time to do it. I'll have a smaller version that incorporates some of Franklin's ideas with the design I did. This was a hybrid to allow for any of conventional, tuning plates conventional, or reverse flow -- which is why it has two exhaust stacks.
If you've got any specific questions, I'd love to help out!
Thanks for the info. A buddy and I got two 1,000 gallon tanks and want to make some pits out of them so I thought someone might have some specs handy that we could copy. I'll check those links out.
He has some information about it in his bookagcrock2005 said:
Thanks for the info. A buddy and I got two 1,000 gallon tanks and want to make some pits out of them so I thought someone might have some specs handy that we could copy. I'll check those links out.
He put out a video a while back on how he treated and built the travel pit he uses for competitions. Did all the work himself at some shop he has out in the woods. Pit build maybe?
Nobody cares. Work Harder
Didn't see thann had the pit calculator linked, but here it is again.
Check out: http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
Plug in specs of tank and it will give you recommended specs for everything else. Also, check out Mill Scale pits online and Instagram if you can. They worked for Aaron Franklin building smokers before branching on their on. Also check out Moberg Smokers. Those two seem to be the Cadillacs right now of offset smokers.
Check out: http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
Plug in specs of tank and it will give you recommended specs for everything else. Also, check out Mill Scale pits online and Instagram if you can. They worked for Aaron Franklin building smokers before branching on their on. Also check out Moberg Smokers. Those two seem to be the Cadillacs right now of offset smokers.
I have found that the fire box is about 20-25% larger than it really needs to be when using Feldons. I still use it as a guide and adjust accordingly
I could see that. I run a tiny fire in mine relative to the firebox (and my firebox is bigger than Feldon indicated). I've often thought about making the opening smaller at the firebox. As is, I run the pit at 250-275 when I have a clean, small, hot fire goingbut it could easily be 350 if I used normal size wood splits.
User name makes me think I need to weight your opinion a little higher than the others...thanks
Yeah, I agree on the fireboxes being extremely big. Most of the smokers I have built have been one-off customs so it is really handy to use figuring everything else out.
I totally agree, it's a great resource and a good place to start. Most of my pits are also like yours, one off's. I always look at Feldons, and adjust as needed. I find that everything except the fire box size is pretty close.BKS_Aggie08 said:
Yeah, I agree on the fireboxes being extremely big. Most of the smokers I have built have been one-off customs so it is really handy to use figuring everything else out.
Thanks, I have built a lot of them. I always like to help out when I can.agcrock2005 said:
User name makes me think I need to weight your opinion a little higher than the others...thanks
There is a ton of useful information in the book, I wished I had read it before building my pit. Amazon Link
I would also agree with The Pit Man, I followed that website and built my firebox and after building realized it was too big. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions, I learned a ton of Do's & Don'ts after finishing my rig.
https://instagr.am/p/-sT-p4iQys
I would also agree with The Pit Man, I followed that website and built my firebox and after building realized it was too big. Feel free to hit me up if you have any questions, I learned a ton of Do's & Don'ts after finishing my rig.
https://instagr.am/p/-sT-p4iQys
Are insulated fireboxes worth it for Houston? And if so how do you adjust the size compared to the calculators?
I've been in the process of buying a backyard sized offset smoker and here is what I was told: Big pits (~250 and up) could benefit from insulated fire boxes. In Houston (I'm here, too), not so sure about the extra work/expense with that feature for the climate. Smaller pits (personal sized) do not need them. Then I got Franklin's book and read the same thing.
Also, this thread looks like it could be fun to watch over the next few months.
Depends on what your current steel dimensions are. I bought a 24 X 60" offset from Lonestar Grillz about 3 years ago (has 1/4" steel) and have never needed the insulated firebox. I'm in DFW. Doesn't get cold enough IMO to need one. If I lived somewhere colder I would definitely get it.
Same as others, in process of design and building one myself so was trying to figure out if I should do it or not.
I thought Franklin said in one of his videos his fire boxes were insulated
I thought Franklin said in one of his videos his fire boxes were insulated
OE_Ag11 said:
I thought Franklin said in one of his videos his fire boxes were insulated
One isn't according to his book. It uses about twice as much wood. That said, he goes on to say that if the firebox is too well insulated, it will keep coal warm longer, hardly requiring wood fuel to keep temps up. Without wood, you get less smoke so you are essentially cooking on an oven. So balance is key.
He says insulation's is good for a large scale cooker but not critical on a smaller on, as long as the steel is 1/4" or 3/8". For long cooks from 5-25 briskets, you could possibly need an insulated firebox. For a brisket or two you don't need it.
I talked to the Mill Scale guys and they said they did tests on backyard smokers with and without insulated fireboxes and prefer non-insulated.
Ah, I think the one he was smoking on was one of the 250 gal to 500 gal propane tank sized ones behind his restaurant so that make sense.
since im moving down a tank size from 250 to the 120 then I might just add one set of insulating plates to the top of the firebox between it and the additional cabinet smoker / warming box I was going to put above the firebox.
since im moving down a tank size from 250 to the 120 then I might just add one set of insulating plates to the top of the firebox between it and the additional cabinet smoker / warming box I was going to put above the firebox.
The one he specifically mentions as insulated is Number Two, a 500 gallon tank with an 8" stack that he now has at home. He says it's is favorite (he goes on to say Nikki Six is his favorite 1000 gallon but doesn't mention insulation although it is likely insulated). I'd guess he insulated all his fireboxes based on the wording in his book.
Number One was uninsulated. I don't think it's still in service.
Number One was uninsulated. I don't think it's still in service.
I agree with the above thoughts that for someone in Texas, an insulated firebox isnt super necessary. Mine is 3/8 inch propane tank with no additional insulation just like the cooking chamber and it holds temp really well once you get it rolling with a good bed of coals. As long as you're using thicker metal like 1/4 or more, you'll be fine. Never had a problem bbqing in the winter when its 30 or 40, and sometimes im fighting it getting too hot in the summer when it's 100 degrees and have to build a smaller fire.
do you have more pictures of how you did the firebox, cabinet smoker interface?
How do you like it? I have been looking at doing something similar.
How do you like it? I have been looking at doing something similar.
IMO, the biggest advantage to an insulated firebox in Texas is going to be the potential safety around the firebox (i.e. cooler surfaces that a kid won't get burned on) and a better paint job (i.e. the insulation knocks down the temps and the expansion/contraction so your paint job will have more longevity).
I personally doubt it makes much difference in cooking, and I have access to plenty of oak wood, so it's not like the amount of wood use matters much. As always, small hot fire is what you want to see in there.
I personally doubt it makes much difference in cooking, and I have access to plenty of oak wood, so it's not like the amount of wood use matters much. As always, small hot fire is what you want to see in there.
Where do you recommend getting hinges, handles, grates, etc. from? I am the opposite of a builder unfortunately...my freakin parents raised me in the city. Hunting is about as redneck as I get, but I would like to get all of the stuff to my buddy so that all he has to do is weld. Thanks.
https://bbqsmokersupply.com These guys have a lot of the things you need. As far as grates, just build your own using 1.5" 3/16 angle iron and #9 3/4 flat expanded metal. On the hinges, don't use those that look like door hinges, they suck. The bullet ones work great, and the 3 piece ones are good but kinda a pain to get lined up right.agcrock2005 said:
Where do you recommend getting hinges, handles, grates, etc. from? I am the opposite of a builder unfortunately...my freakin parents raised me in the city. Hunting is about as redneck as I get, but I would like to get all of the stuff to my buddy so that all he has to do is weld. Thanks.
I personally don't think that in Texas you actually "need" an insulated fire box. They will help with wood usage and will keep the paint looking good longer though. As to figuring out the size, use the calculated size for the inter box, then build the outer box 2" larger.OE_Ag11 said:
Are insulated fireboxes worth it for Houston? And if so how do you adjust the size compared to the calculators?
If you live in College Station I would recommend Pioneer Steel on HWY 21. I made all of my grates out of flat expanded metal and 1/2 solid square stock. Quick Tip - Weld all your hinges before cutting your doors. Learned the hard way its a pain to hold the door in place and then weld the hinge.
OE_Ag11 said:
do you have more pictures of how you did the firebox, cabinet smoker interface?
How do you like it? I have been looking at doing something similar.
In regards to the "cabinet smoker interface" you reference I think this is what you are seeing...
So after building my firebox based on the measurements from the online site and realizing it was to big. I flipped it vertically and made the top portion a warming box and extended the fire box a little longer. There is a 6" space between the fire box and warming box filled with sand and firebrick with copper hose ran to heat my hot water. I got super lucky because once it is warm the warming box sits right at 140.
My firebox is not very tall but it is pretty deep. I designed it this way in the end so that I could push the wood closer to the pit if need or pull it back if it was getting hot, no need to have a fire box that is tall. Also one thing I wished I had done since my fire box is square and the vent into the pit is half-moon was put some form of plates in the top corners of the fire box, that is just dead space that collects heat with no where to go.
I love the pit it cooks great, can hold temp all day long, and super efficient (maybe 1 stick an hour). The only draw back is you can justify only cooking one brisket on it, all or nothing.
Firebox Baffle System
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[/img] Thanks again for the information. Are grates really that easy to make? I don't even know what "angle iron" is...I said I wasn't a builder!Quote:
https://bbqsmokersupply.com These guys have a lot of the things you need. As far as grates, just build your own using 1.5" 3/16 angle iron and #9 3/4 flat expanded metal. On the hinges, don't use those that look like door hinges, they suck. The bullet ones work great, and the 3 piece ones are good but kinda a pain to get lined up right.
EDIT: Just googled angle iron and expanded metal and it does look like it would be pretty easy. Thanks again.
If you weld the expanded metal to the back side of the angle iron, then turn it over it makes a much nicer finish.agcrock2005 said:Thanks again for the information. Are grates really that easy to make? I don't even know what "angle iron" is...I said I wasn't a builder!Quote:
https://bbqsmokersupply.com These guys have a lot of the things you need. As far as grates, just build your own using 1.5" 3/16 angle iron and #9 3/4 flat expanded metal. On the hinges, don't use those that look like door hinges, they suck. The bullet ones work great, and the 3 piece ones are good but kinda a pain to get lined up right.
EDIT: Just googled angle iron and expanded metal and it does look like it would be pretty easy. Thanks again.
That is what I was looking for. Do you have any way for smoke to make it into the box if you did want to hang stuff?
I don't although I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to come up with something, I would do a baffle and a form of reverse flow so the heat isn't super direct. Might be easier to just make some custom racks for the pit portion that you could hang from.
I was thinking about that but I am moving down a size in propane tanks to a 150gal from a 250 which is big for being able to move around the yard and such, so I don't think I would have the height. I was thinking of doing the modified reverse flow and two stacks so I would be able to adjust depending on what plates I have in the bottom of the smoker. Then either have a tube to the bottom of the box with a baffle, or run it through the main chamber. Was thinking main chamber might be better.
is that for permanently welded shelves?
Also is there a rule of thumb for how high to place the bottom rack in the main cooking chamber to the reverse flow blocker panels, or to the bottom of the pit tube?
Also is there a rule of thumb for how high to place the bottom rack in the main cooking chamber to the reverse flow blocker panels, or to the bottom of the pit tube?
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