I have an old .38 special snub nose revolver. I have tried to figure out how old it is and any information I can about, but I am coming up short.

Based on pictures I have found and what little research I have been able to do it appears to be an old Chief's Special Model 36, but everything I have found shows that those were 5 round capacity and the one I have is 6 round. I have the serial number. Does anyone have the ability to tell me more about this gun if I provide the serial number?

It looks like some of these can be worth a good amount, but I can't confirm what it is. The picture below is not the gun I have, but it looks identical.

S&W can provide a history based on the serial. Open up the cylinder and look at the frame in front of the cylinder, there should be a model number engraved there IIRC

A serial number can get it down to the year it was shipped. Does yours start with an S or C?

I have a modest collection of post war pinned S&W's revolvers. S&W dropped the "Chief Special" moniker in the mid fifties and sold them as the Model 36 thereafter. I have two a 1959 "flat latch" and a 1974 nickle. I have had a lot luck having S&W revolvers dated by serial number here: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/identity-and-date-of-manufacture-of-s-w-revolvers.372213/
BTW I have never heard of nor have I seen a Chief Special/Model 36 with a six shot capacity but I am not the know all end all on S&W revolvers. I would guess you have a nice Model 10 but, again, I could be wrong.

the serial number starts with a C.

Model 64 = 6 shots

Edit: Model 10 blued; Model 64 Nickel

A gun with a C prefix in .38 Special is either M&P .38 Special which became the Model 10 in around 57 or the M&P Airweight which became the Model 12. The C prefix began in 1948 and ended in around '67.
Snubbies are cool, especially if they are round butt.

Looks like a Model 10 to me.

Don't know why but I am suddenly in the mood to catch a couple episodes of Baretta.

Muzzleblast said:

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Looks like a Model 10 to me.

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Yeah, I know they made some "snub nosed" 10s, don't know what years or how many. I think you're spot on.

Op, realized my first post may not have been clear if you're not a gun guy.



The red #1 on that picture is where I was telling you the model number might be found. Let us know what it says.

Did you try emailing S&W?

I know there is a S&W forum that has a ton of info on serial numbers. Il see if I can find it tonight.


I'm also pretty sure it's a Model 10.

I found that, there was a "Y" stamped into it below that was a 6 digit number and then below that was just a single "8"

The grips don't reflect that revolver being a "pre-model marking" piece (which began in the mid-50's), but the grips are a common thing to replace.

But if there is not a clear model number w/suffix on the frame, old it must be....

DartAg1970 said:

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I found that, there was a "Y" stamped into it below that was a 6 digit number and then below that was just a single "8"

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That is most likely an assembly number they used to keep the fitted parts together while bluing, etc. If you post the serial number starting with C and x out the last couple of numbers if you want to keep it somewhat anonymous, I can get close.

He did say this picture wasn't his gun, just one he thought it looked like.

I'm pretty curious now too.

What oklaunion said: just post your serial # like "C8387xx"

There's nothing anybody could do harmful by having that little information, but just enough for him to help you.

Missed the part of not being the actual revolver in the pic.

A couple years ago at a gun show, what was tagged as a Model 15 was a "pre-15", and a 5-screw version! Great condition, and priced right. As if I needed another S&W revolver

GSS said:

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Missed the part of not being the actual revolver in the pic.

A couple years ago at a gun show, what was tagged as a Model 15 was a "pre-15", and a 5-screw version! Great condition, and priced right. As if I needed another S&W revolver

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I love it when sellers don't know what they have I did the same last year: bought a 98-99% 1965 Colt Cobra (the year before they standardized the grip frame) for $500. Side plate has never seen a screwdriver; It was one of those, shot once, stored in a gun rug in the night stand guns for sure.

Serial number is C592XX

Missed the adjustable sights. May be a Model 15.

Model number listed plus any dash - after will tell you the engineering change.

Model 15 - 5 would be Model 15, 5th engineering change.

Oops, looking at the bottom revolver, not the OPs pic. Back to Model 10.

DartAg1970 said:

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Serial number is C592XX

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From 2 revolvers on either side of your number, ship dates were 3/49 and 5/49.

So a '49 M&P .38.

OP, can you tell if the frame is alloy or steel?

Oklaunion, do you know if that number includes some of the alloy cylinders or did they change that prior?

I would guess steel, but i have no idea how to tell.

is M&P the model, so it is neither a model 10 or 36?

DartAg1970 said:

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I would guess steel, but i have no idea how to tell.

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How much does it weigh?

no idea, Ill have to weigh it later, but it is pretty heavy. Heavier than other handguns i have handled.

DartAg1970 said:

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I would guess steel, but i have no idea how to tell.

is M&P the model, so it is neither a model 10 or 36?

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The M&P is what Smith called their K frame revolvers before they went to the new model naming scheme in the 50s.

So it's not a model 10, but it is the forerunner to it and was basically the same gun with minor differences for a very long time.

DartAg1970 said:

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I would guess steel, but i have no idea how to tell.

is M&P the model, so it is neither a model 10 or 36?

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Unless I'm mistaken, that is officially a .38 Military & Police Postwar, unofficially called a "Pre-model 10" if steel.

If it's alloy, it would be a .officially a. 38 Military & Police Airweight, unofficially called a "Pre-model 12"

The alloy version would be slightly thinner (and of course lighter) than the steel. Based purely on a guess, I would put the alloy version at around 18-21 oz. and the steel version at ~29oz.

Edit: Also, the steel M&Ps are built on the square butt K frame, while the Airweights can be either round or square K frame. Some of the originals also had an alloy cylinder (not the aircrewman, which is very rare, but numbered concurrently).

Strongweasel97 said:

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DartAg1970 said:

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I would guess steel, but i have no idea how to tell.

is M&P the model, so it is neither a model 10 or 36?

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Unless I'm mistaken, that is officially a .38 Military & Police Postwar, unofficially called a "Pre-model 10" if steel.

If it's alloy, it would be a .officially a. 38 Military & Police Airweight, unofficially called a "Pre-model 12"

The alloy version would be slightly thinner (and of course lighter) than the steel. Based purely on a guess, I would put the alloy version at around 18-21 oz. and the steel version at ~29oz.

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Does the steel vs. alloy affect value? what would these typically be valued at? it is in pretty good shape from what i can tell.

Strongweasel97 said:

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So a '49 M&P .38.

OP, can you tell if the frame is alloy or steel?

Oklaunion, do you know if that number includes some of the alloy cylinders or did they change that prior?

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My original statement about the alloy cylinder gun was incorrect. My earliest is a few years later and I think the first ones were in the early 50s. I misread the serial number.
The original grips should be stamped with the serial number inside the right half.
OP, is the front sight serrated ramp like the pic or a half moon?

Oklaunion, you know a lot!

i believe it is the half moon. Ill check when i get home, but i don't recall it looking like the first picture.

DartAg1970 said:

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Strongweasel97 said:

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DartAg1970 said:

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I would guess steel, but i have no idea how to tell.

is M&P the model, so it is neither a model 10 or 36?

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Unless I'm mistaken, that is officially a .38 Military & Police Postwar, unofficially called a "Pre-model 10" if steel.

If it's alloy, it would be a .officially a. 38 Military & Police Airweight, unofficially called a "Pre-model 12"

The alloy version would be slightly thinner (and of course lighter) than the steel. Based purely on a guess, I would put the alloy version at around 18-21 oz. and the steel version at ~29oz.

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Does the steel vs. alloy affect value? what would these typically be valued at? it is in pretty good shape from what i can tell.

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Yes. 95% condition steel would be ~$400; Alloy ~$775+ Alloy cylinder would add about $80-150. Of course, it all depends on condition, market, and buyer.

Edit: I say "buyer," because you would really need to find a revolver fan, probably especially an S&W fan. Pretty hard to come by these days.