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Pasture Weed Help

17,604 Views | 49 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by Micropterus
BQ_90
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In reply to 5C • 10:42a, 12/29/22
AG
5C said:
BQ_90 said:
5C said:
Found this thread and wanted to bring it back to the surface. We bought a ranch and the pastures are overrun with goat weed. Bermuda grazing pastures and I want to get the Bermuda thick and try to control the goat weed. Dormant (or dead, I don't really know) stalks are everywhere and my thought was to mow them down and spray 2,4-D when they start growing in the spring. Any ideas?

Also should I overseed with more Bermuda after I spray in the spring?

Thanks!

Edit to add: we have cows in the pastures currently and they are all the Bermuda down so right now the only thing taller than a few inches is the goat weed.
you can mow now, but it doesn't really do anything, once they go to seed then there really isn't much else you can do unless you just don't like the stalks. Yes spray in the spring.

Also you probable should soil test. Normally weeds are signs of overgrazing and/or nutrient deficiencies.


Property wasn't touched for 5+ years before we bought it.


If it was overgrazed before then the weeds got jump start. Also Bermuda tends to need nutrients to out compete the weeds

I'd soil test, one sample per 40 acres at $10 sample isn't a huge investment. If you need to lime or if you have glaring nutrient deficiency it's good to know now before you blow money doing anything on the pastures
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B-1 83
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In reply to BQ_90 • 11:01a, 12/29/22
AG
You talk like one of those damn government NRCS guys……..


Your best bang for your buck will almost always be weed control in pastures. Shredding just makes short weeds. In bermudagrass it only makes sense to spray weeds and give it a good jump start with fertilizer to make it harder for more weeds to come back.
Being in TexAgs jail changes a man……..no, not really
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hook60
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11:22a, 12/29/22
Croton is a constant battle. Any over grazing, disturbing the soil, and/or drought give it an advantage over grass. The window to spray it is very small - typically late May/early June with 2-4-D. Best kill is when the plant is roughly 4-10 inches tall. There will often be a second growth a few months later when the conditions are right for weeds. On pastures/fields where we have really stayed on top of it the grass will choke out the second growth (some of the first growth as well).

Considering using P+D to have more residual (and possibly have an impact on small huisache). The last I priced it P+D and 2-4-D where getting more comparable in price.
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rancher1953
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4:40p, 12/29/22
If you want to get a jump on it this year, put out Rezilon Herbicide. This will stop it before it gets out of the ground. It is also good for a number of ther weeds in the pasture. However it is expensive, but a little goes a long way. Have been using it with good results in Austin County for the past two years. My pastures are not grass burr free and goat weed free. You must put the product out with then soil tempt. reaches 55 degrees and rising. You can get the soil tempt. by going to greencast, put in the zip code and you can track it daily. If you want the best person to speak with on the matter get in touch with Brad Pierece. He puts on a number of classes all over the state and well worth the $50 fee for the knowledge you will get plus a great meal. He can be reached at bwpierce2011@gmail.com or 512-354-0018. You will thank me later.
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rancher1953
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4:42p, 12/29/22
It is was to read grass burr and goat weed free. Sorry for the typo.
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BoerneGator
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5:56p, 12/29/22
AG
Was hired by a big ranch in South Texas to "harvest" them a big batch of seed from their native pasture. Their plan was to take it to their ranch in Georgia to get it established. Ran my combine all over their pastures from clump to clump until I was able to gather a couple of hoppers full. Because the seed was still 'green', we had to spread it out on a barn floor for it to dry, lest it go through a heat and spoil. Never learned if the experiment worked for them, but imagine it did. This was ~ thirty years ago . Never knew if it succeeded or not, but reckon it did.

Texas Croton (dove/goat weed) is a prolific weed across Texas, but to my knowledge, doves are the only thing that benefit from its existence.
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BoerneGator
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In reply to B-1 83 • 6:00p, 12/29/22
AG
Quote:
Shredding just makes short weeds.
Lol
And then, only for a short time, until just after the next rain...
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5C
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9:15p, 12/29/22
AG
I appreciate all the replies. So P+D in place of 2,4-D?

Also any reason to overseed with Bermuda?
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GSS
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In reply to 5C • 10:28p, 12/29/22
5C said:
I appreciate all the replies. So P+D in place of 2,4-D?

Also any reason to overseed with Bermuda?
It's a cost/application decision....no residual with straight 2,4-D, but <$5/acre for outstanding contact kill. Or go with a P+D product, for 2,4-D control and some degree of pre-emergent/post emergent control (more $$).

The Rezilon mentioned earlier is an outstanding pre-emergent product...at $25+/acre, just the chemical cost!
We have used it in areas of our Coastal hay field (grass burs), great success, and in yard areas infested with grass burs.

Decisions, decisions....
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5C
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In reply to GSS • 3:24a, 12/30/22
AG
GSS said:
5C said:
I appreciate all the replies. So P+D in place of 2,4-D?

Also any reason to overseed with Bermuda?
It's a cost/application decision....no residual with straight 2,4-D, but <$5/acre for outstanding contact kill. Or go with a P+D product, for 2,4-D control and some degree of pre-emergent/post emergent control (more $$).

The Rezilon mentioned earlier is an outstanding pre-emergent product...at $25+/acre, just the chemical cost!
We have used it in areas of our Coastal hay field (grass burs), great success, and in yard areas infested with grass burs.

Decisions, decisions....


I'd like to get the Bermuda thicker so I wasn't sure about pre emergent if I wanted to overseed, so that's why I was asking the question. Is it worth seeding further with Bermuda or should I just go all out on killing the weeds?
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GSS
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In reply to 5C • 7:38a, 12/30/22
Before I would invest in Bermuda grass seed, I would go for the weed control first, and try and control the level of grazing.(easier said, than done).

https://counties.agrilife.org/denton/files/2013/08/bermudagrass-pasture-management.pdf
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CowtownAg06
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8:57a, 12/30/22
AG
This my thread so funny to see the bump. 2021 with all the rain, mine got out of control, I just shredded in the fall. I planned to spray this June, but with the drought, the stuff never spring up. If we get normal rains this winter/spring, I'll be spraying I'm sure.
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Rockingoranch
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In reply to 5C • 10:11a, 12/30/22
Since this thread is back, I would like to comment. First comment for me ever.

The weed in the picture is Silver Nightshade. It is a highly toxic weed, but easy to control.

There is NOTHING you should do in January. Mowing won't do any better than this past week's freeze.
Change the oil on your tractor and enjoy your family.

However, you should seriously consider an herbicide application in late February or early March, when the seeds from your "Goat Weed" etc., begin to germinate.

I would get with my county agent for the best formula for your area. I use Picloram and it is EXTREMELY effective in my area, but it's not right for everyone.

You need to consider the equipment you have, the soil structures, your grazing goals etc.

Hope this helps
Happy New Year
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El Hombre Mas Guapo
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11:44a, 12/30/22
AG
Calling grapesoda ag lol
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Micropterus
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In reply to Rockingoranch • 3:44p, 12/31/22
AG
Rockingoranch said:


The weed in the picture is Silver Nightshade.



No its not. The two are sometimes easily confused, but the weed in that picture is 100% Croton capitatus, i.e. woolly croton (WSSA accepted common name) goatweed, doveweed, etc.
Those fuzzy little balls at the top are the encapsulated seedpods. Croton is an annual; silverleaf nightshade is a perennial with little purple flowers when it blooms.
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