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Outdoor photography gear and pointers

5,012 Views | 48 Replies | Last: 6 yr ago by ballchain
AgBQ-00
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AG
I'm looking at upgrading from a point and shoot to dslr. I'm leaning towards Nikon but want to hear thoughts on other brands. Also debating between an entry level or an intermediate (d3400 v D5600) What should I look for? what should I avoid? Any thoughts from those more experienced?
reddog90
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There's a large photography thread in the nerdery section with lots of good information and very knowledgable posters. Also there are lots of great reviews online for entry level setups. Photography Life is an awesome resource. I was in your shoes several years ago and I jumped into a D7000 body and found good used glass instead of a entry level kit and vowed to learn how to use it. None of them are better than a good point and shoot if you leave it on auto mode though. Do your research and learn to get it off auto. I found a photography school near me and took some classes because I learn better that way. I don't think you can go wrong with nikon or canon, but I shoot nikon.
Snow Monkey Ambassador
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Best piece of advice to beginners :If this is something you think you'll stick with, avoid DX (or the cannon equivalent) and go straight to a full frame camera. If you move up to an FX (full frame) later, you're going to want FX glass. If you buy a DX you'll buy DX glass and when you move up to FX it'll be worthless (it will "work," but you won't want to use DX lenses on an FX camera). If you need to, buy used. A D750 is a fantastic camera, and a brand new body is around $1,500. You can get the (pretty damn good) kit lens with it for $2K. Or buy used and a D610 or something and save money. Either way, full frame is your future so don't waste money on cropped lenses.
91AggieLawyer
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Whatever you do, buy used. KEH and a few other used online camera dealers are good places to get stuff from.

I would not limit myself to the traditional DSLRs. Mirrorless sytems are much lighter and still do very good jobs in virtually all photographic areas with the possible exception (depending on the system) of sports and other fast action stuff. It isn't that the mirrorless systems are incapable of taking good pics, but they don't (yet) have the frames per second speed of the Canons and Nikons on most bodies. But if that isn't something you're going to be shooting a lot of, Panasonic, Olympus (same lenses on both) and Sony are 3 good brands to look at. I shot Canon cameras for years starting with film -- owning more than a dozen bodies from manual film cameras to pro digital bodies -- and am now with Panasonic and 2 bodies. I'd like to grab an Olympus for my still camera and use the Panasonics for video.

Anyway, it is an option to look at.
mpl35
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Snow Monkey Ambassador said:

Best piece of advice to beginners :If this is something you think you'll stick with, avoid DX (or the cannon equivalent) and go straight to a full frame camera. If you move up to an FX (full frame) later, you're going to want FX glass. If you buy a DX you'll buy DX glass and when you move up to FX it'll be worthless (it will "work," but you won't want to use DX lenses on an FX camera). If you need to, buy used. A D750 is a fantastic camera, and a brand new body is around $1,500. You can get the (pretty damn good) kit lens with it for $2K. Or buy used and a D610 or something and save money. Either way, full frame is your future so don't waste money on cropped lenses.
Disagree 100%. I bought my first Nikon over a decade ago. I've upgraded bodies since then, but still use dx. The form factor is advantageous for hiking - its smaller and lighter. I shoot a ton of landscape, some wildlife, and some sports. DX is still fine. I'd go Sony for smaller form factor before FX on Nikon.

You can certainly buy FX glass for DX body if that is a concern.
Kenneth_2003
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The issue with DX glass on an FX body or vice versa has to do with focal length.

OK, I'm speaking Nikon now.
Early DSLRs were DX. They would certainly use older manual and automatic lenses. The issue was a roughly 30% increase in focal length. So a 50mm lense was now roughly equivalent to a 70mm. A 30mm was more akin to a 50. If you're outside shooting sports or landscapes, this probably isn't an issue. If you're trying to get the family around the table you're gonna be needing a bigger breakfast room. Now, putting DX lenses on an FX body and you're losing distance. a 50mm is effectively a 30, a 70mm is effectively a 50mm. That long lense you like to take to the blind just doesn't reach like it used to.
Caladan
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If you are reaaaaalllly going to get into photography, then you will definitely want to heed Mr. Ambassador's advice. However, you really need to consider if the extra weight, bulk and cost is worth it to you. Clearly it is to Mr. Ambassador, but it is not for everyone. I used to shoot a lot of 35mm film many years ago, and basically got tired of lugging that much weight and bulk around. I ditched everything a number of years ago, and haven't regretted it a bit.

If half-frame is good with you, then please read the following -- Sony, Nikon, Canon, Pentax -- all are very good. However, there are a lot more Canon users out there, which also means that there is more used Canon equipment out there. On one of the forums I frequent, there are probably ten times more used Canon lenses for sale over Nikon. Something to consider if buying used. Personally, I would go with Canon or Nikon, as lenses are easier to come by. And between these two, you will sometimes find Canon-mount lenses on sale at popular retailers, while the same lenses in other mounts are not on sale.

That being said, I use a Nikon half-frame dslr, and am very happy with it. Half-frame is fine for my needs and desires, and I use my Nikon when shooting wildlife with a big Sigma telephoto. I don't use it for anything else. For the rest of my photography, I use an Olympus micro four-thirds camera and a Fuji p&s. As with my Nikon, the size of these two cameras suits my needs and desires just fine. If you haven't already done so, you might research the pros and cons of the different popular formats before you decide. After all, it is good to have alternatives..........
mpl35
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More canon used equipment because they are bailing to other brands.
MonkeyKnifeFighter
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flashplayer
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I'm not the only one who misread the thread title expecting something epic, right?
mpl35
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KEH is good. I also bought a macro lens and great tripod off Fred Miranda
AgBQ-00
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Thanks for all the pointers. I will look into all of this. Im mainly wanting to use the camera for travel pics and family stuff. Am wanting to fool around with pics for web use of leather work and such as well.
Mr. Dubi
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If you want to shoot panorama and up close, macro shots, then a pocket camera might actually be the best coice, unless you are looking to complicate your life.

The Olympus TG series are great, shoot RAW and stitch pano's n the camera. Hey are nearly bulletproof as well for under $500.

To get the same sort of flexibility from an SLR or mirrorless would cost several thousands. If you are going to make this a serious hobby, then SLR/mirrorless would be the way to go.

I don't think there is a need for a full frame for most people; the sensors on most APSC's and m4/3's are more that adequate. Get good glass.
dubi
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The upgrade learning curve is huge when you move to DSLR unless you just put it in "auto" mode; I'm in it now and have been for several years.

I totally disagree that you must get a full frame camera; it would be a big waste of money at this point.

Take a class. Adobe CreativeLive has what they call "Fast Start" classes for the major DSLR cameras and it teaches you about all the buttons and settings.

What is it you want to do better? Macro, distance, flash, or just better pictures? Post these detail on the Nerdery forum and it will help them help you better.
reddog90
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Are yall suggesting he buy a used body? When I first started out, I was told to buy new bodies and used glass from a reputable place like KEH.
dubi
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reddog90 said:

Are yall suggesting he buy a used body? When I first started out, I was told to buy new bodies and used glass from a reputable place like KEH.
I purchased a used body without any issues. KEH stands behind their products.
AgBQ-00
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I will cross post over on the nerdery photog thread for sure. I wanted to give some details about what I am currently working with and some examples of what I have shot with it and some examples of what I am hoping to shoot in the future.

Currently using the Olympus su600 uz A couple of pics I have taken with it:



I like these pics but I don't at the same time. I also want to know how to adjust for lighting to get the most color as I can and also take the best shots I can.

Now for some shots I would love to be able to take:





Anyway, thanks for all the pointers and tips. Just thought some idea of what I want to do would help.
TexasAggie_02
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full frame is not necessary for a beginner. I would NEVER buy crop lenses (dx, Nikon; EF-S, Canon) Buy full frame (normal) lenses for any camera you get.

Buy a crop sensor as a beginner. Get the body only. Use all the money you saved by not buying a full frame, and get a couple of good lenses.

Good lenses will last you 10 years or more. Buying camera bodies is like buying a laptop or an iphone. By the time you figure out all the ins and outs of it, it will be outdated and worth a fraction of what you paid for it. Good lenses hold their value much longer.

As you get better, you can always upgrade to a full frame if you feel that you could benefit from it.

I've shot 35mm for 11 years, crop DSLR for 3, and full frame for 4.
reddog90
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The two pics you've taken that you posted are fine shots imo, but the composition could be improved and they could be tweaked some in post processing (Lightroom/Photoshop) if you shoot in raw. You seem to have the same tastes in what you want to shoot as I do. Get ready to spend some money. I'll eventually have an FX body but my D7000 is better than I am right now. I currently have a 17-55 f2.8 and a 70-200 f2.8 vrii. I will probably sell the 17-55 and get a 24-70 f2.8 at some point. I'd eventually like a 200-500 f5.6 as well. I rented one from Borrow Lenses for a workshop next weekend.
MonkeyKnifeFighter
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labmansid
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I second the advice about no need for full frame from what you have given us so far. I have been shooting a "crop sensor" DSLR almost exclusively for many years. I do have a Canon 6D full frame I use for very low light situations, since that is what a full frame camera excels at. I bought it as a refurb from Canon a few years ago, which is another option to consider besides the used market. Unless you find yourself shooting in very dark conditions a lot, full frame is overkill, IMO.

That action shot of the dog you would like to emulate tells me you will need a crop sensor camera with a high FPS (frames per second) shutter and fast, accurate focusing. That may be difficult to achieve with anything less than a medium featured DSLR. That is sort of my specialty, action shots of animals and birds. I use a Canon 7D MKII for that. It is even pretty decent in lower light I've found.

I suggest once you find a camera and lens combo you are serious about, try renting it for at least a week or two on subjects you will be shooting a lot of. Shelling out a little for rent is a lot cheaper than having major buyer's remorse later.
sunchaser
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Where are you located?

My advice would be to buy the best lens I could afford for the type of things I want to photograph. I would want to make sure that it and the next lens you want to purchase is compatible with the body you choose.

BPSOP....Bryan Peterson has a great course titled "Understanding Exposure"

Do it early and you will bypass the "Automatic" phase of your camera. After the course you will probably never use the auto feature.
AgBQ-00
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I'm in Ft Worth. I am definitely going to do some reading and probably a class or two to get my mind around exposure and composition. I want to take the best pics that whatever camera I get can take.
Guitarsoup
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AgBQ-00 said:

I'm in Ft Worth. I am definitely going to do some reading and probably a class or two to get my mind around exposure and composition. I want to take the best pics that whatever camera I get can take.
Before you take a class, buy this book and study it. https://amzn.to/2tVCycn
Blue Duck
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This book was awesome and incredibly helpful in explaining concepts and function.
mpl35
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Guitarsoup said:

AgBQ-00 said:

I'm in Ft Worth. I am definitely going to do some reading and probably a class or two to get my mind around exposure and composition. I want to take the best pics that whatever camera I get can take.
Before you take a class, buy this book and study it. https://amzn.to/2tVCycn
yep
sunchaser
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Competitive Camera in Irving near Dallas is a great place to go and get some input.
ntxVol
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I agree with the general consensus on this thread. Beginners tend to get sticker shock when they look at the cost of the good glass but, after you have used a couple you begin to understand.

You can get a lot of mileage out of prime lenses that won't break the bank but they generally aren't good "walk around" lenses.
dubi
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Quote:

You can get a lot of mileage out of prime lenses that won't break the bank but they generally aren't good "walk around" lenses.
I only have one prime and it is a nifty 50 that i never use.

Good glass in order of my usage:
Tamron 70-200 2.8 g2
Canon 100-400 II
Canon 24-105 F4 (used from Guitarsoup and my intro to good glass)

Tamron 24-70 2.8 (brand new so not in the ranking yet)

I must say i am 95% an outdoors sports photographer hence my use of the 70-200; it is my "walk around" lens.
mpl35
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I have a macro prime. Rarely use it but it is irreplaceable for certain situations

I have a 35 mm prime I shoot sand vb with.

Love my 70-200 mm for soccer, baseball
91AggieLawyer
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Quote:

Competitive Camera in Irving near Dallas

Its in Dallas on Irving Blvd.

2025 Irving Blvd, Ste 107, Dallas, TX 75207
ntxVol
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Yeah, prime isn't a good choice for sports, I agree. I have an 85mm F/1.8 that I love, love, love, it is great for portraits and I like getting candids of the grandkids too but a prime lens does make you work a little harder. That lens has proven to be very versatile IMO.
Guitarsoup
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ntxVOL said:

Yeah, prime isn't a good choice for sports, I agree. I have an 85mm F/1.8 that I love, love, love, it is great for portraits and I like getting candids of the grandkids too but a prime lens does make you work a little harder. That lens has proven to be very versatile IMO.


The 400mm 2.8 lens is THE sports lens.
dubi
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I'm saving my pennies!
Random Ag
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Highly recommend looking at the mirrorless options. Unless you are going to blow your photos up to poster size, the 24MP mirrorless are more than capable and from a ease of carrying perspective, they really are so much handier than a full frame. As a point of reference, I went from a Canon 5D II to a Fuji XT20 earlier this year, I shoot mostly landscape.
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