I'm horse wire fencing a larger area of my back yard in, and on the corners I was going to do a double H frame both ways, but I read up that you really only need a double H for stretching fences that are ~160 feet or longer. Since none of my runs will be over that, can I get away with a good single H?

Also, how do you pin a double H at the middle post? I have one I am doing as a double to better support a long gate I am hanging. I'm not notching, I'm drilling and using 3/8" diameter 10" galvanized nails to pin the cross braces in place before stringing the wire diagonal. When doing a double H, I couldn't do this and place the cross braces at the same height due to the nail head on one side. I guess I could leave it sticking out both sides of the post and saw the head off, or offset the cross brace slightly. What would be better?

Yeah, that's what I would call a single H corner. Basically an H each side of the corner, though I guess it is a double H with a sharp middle bend really. I was going to do at least that, but I saw some of the longer fence sections already run had those with a double H each side of the corner. Seems like much overkill for a shorter 120-150 foot run.

MouthBQ98 said:

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Yeah, that's what I would call a single H corner. Basically an H each side of the corner, though I guess it is a double H with a sharp middle bend really. I was going to do at least that, but I saw some of the longer fence sections already run had those with a double H each side of the corner. Seems like much overkill for a shorter 120-150 foot run.

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In the past I have only done a double (or 4 depending on the verbiage, 2 both ways) when the length of fence being stretched is really long, but even still we'd put 2 or 3 H braces in the middle (sometimes a gate) of the stretch. I think just for a back yard, what you're calling a single H corner will work fine.

NO Copperheads can be harmed during the making of this enclosure!

Speaking of, it was warm enough today that they will resume their spring migration, so I will be hunting tonight. Betting on at least 1 catch tonight.

The total length of your H brace should be 1.5x the height of the fence, as a rule of thumb. Doesn't matter if it's single or double, really. If you're doing a 4' tall field fence, make your brace 8' wide.

I understand in the olden day's why you would notch a post for the H, but why anyone continues to do so perplexes me to no end.

Yeah, about 24" down I hit DENSE clay on this clay pan, and hacking into it is brutal work. I can get a few inches deeper with a lot of work, but going past 30" seems a waste. I'm using 5 and 6" posts at corners and gates, and 4" posts for every third post between T-posts.

Digging an auger stuck in the clay out is a sonofa......

My wooden cross posts will stay in place. They have 4-5 inches of galvanized steel spike in each end from the posts.

Of also importance is the pull diagonal brace wire that runs from the bottom of your center post to the top of your H post. This should be of very heavy gauge and the proper way to install it is to double wire it and then twist it with a piece of pipe until very tight. This actually transfers any pulling of the H post to the bottom of the corner post. The picture shown with the wire tensioner is too light of a gauge of wire and will easily stretch. Trying to tighten it with the tensioner sufficiently will usually cause it to break.

Yeah, it's short runs and I'm not going to tension it too much.

I prefer a deadman style corner with concrete footers. It uses less material. I use this exclusively for high tensile fences. It'll outhold and outpull a standard double H any day of the week and twice on Sunday. For horse fence, its required by the manufacturer. It has to be done properly though. I use old telephone poles....as stated above, the corner post itself is of great importance.

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30 inches deep is not going to stay in the ground if you stretch the fence very tight.

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Eh.....Maybe not if you use a 3.5" post for your corner in sand.

I know what you mean about hitting heavy clay. You can work for an hour on a 12" diameter hole and gain barely over an inch with hand tools. I am hard headed and dig through it anyway because I want all the holes to be a certain depth..... over 40".

Your horizontal do not have to be at matching heights! Maybe you are thinking it would look bad, but if I am understanding your OP and situation, I would just move the second horizontal down 4 inches.

Good info.


https://efotg.sc.egov.usda.gov/references/public/TX/382_Fence_Specification-Revised_2015.pdf

The one that gets me on that NRCS data sheet is T-Posts driven 24" into the ground with an alternate at 18" if unable to get them to 24"...... hahahahaha right.

If I get the spade of the T-Post all the way buried, I am lucky.

We must fence in similar territory. Mesquite and lots of rocks!

Allen76 said:

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The one that gets me on that NRCS data sheet is T-Posts driven 24" into the ground with an alternate at 18" if unable to get them to 24"...... hahahahaha right.

If I get the spade of the T-Post all the way buried, I am lucky.

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I have the same problem! You haven't lived till you've chip out a 40" + deep post hole with a bar.

Great shoulder and arm workout.

Allen76 said:

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The one that gets me on that NRCS data sheet is T-Posts driven 24" into the ground with an alternate at 18" if unable to get them to 24"...... hahahahaha right.

If I get the spade of the T-Post all the way buried, I am lucky.

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If it's rock most use an air drill and drive the posts in, knocking the spade off.

Secolobo said:

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Good info.


https://efotg.sc.egov.usda.gov/references/public/TX/382_Fence_Specification-Revised_2015.pdf

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Thanks.... was actually looking for a way to hang a gate and see there is at least some "science" to it.

tamc93 said:

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Secolobo said:

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Good info.


https://efotg.sc.egov.usda.gov/references/public/TX/382_Fence_Specification-Revised_2015.pdf

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Thanks.... was actually looking for a way to hang a gate and see there is at least some "science" to it.

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There isn't, because no matter what you do, the gate will drag the ground in two years. It's just one of those truisms about farming and ranching.

HTownAg98 said:

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tamc93 said:

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Secolobo said:

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Good info.


https://efotg.sc.egov.usda.gov/references/public/TX/382_Fence_Specification-Revised_2015.pdf

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Thanks.... was actually looking for a way to hang a gate and see there is at least some "science" to it.

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There isn't, because no matter what you do, the gate will drag the ground in two years. It's just one of those truisms about farming and ranching.

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2 years?

Maybe you need to dig your posts a little deeper. Either that or find someone else to build your fence.

Cromagnum said:

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Double HH's...

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Lord have mercy!!!!!!!!! I wanna bite'em!