I recently purchased a 1 acre lot we plan to build on within the next 18 months or so. There are a lot of cedars, as well as some nice live oaks. Someone on this thread mentioned that if you can't clear an acre of cedars with a chainsaw you should turn in your man card....so what chain saw should I get? Thanks in advance.

Stihl.

Husqvarna

I have a Stihl ms250 that has served me pretty well.

Stihl. 5 yrs old. Starts every time. Runs smooth.

Husqvarna rancher

Another vote for STIHL

Been looking at the Husqvarnas or Stihls...I'm not too experienced with a chain saw...any tips on cutting the cedars down as low to the ground as possible? Most are 3-6" diameter, but there are some larger ones as well. I'm initially thinking I'll leave the larger ones for now, at least until we get the site planned.

Stihl. Bought a ms250 last year and like it. Didn't use for 6 months, didn't treat the fuel, and it started up the other day without issue. Has a lot of power in a 18" bar.

Stihl. Can get parts and service about anywhere.

Primo....We clear cedar on our ranch constantly. First you want to cut down below anything green or it will regrow.
Its best to cut off at ground level but that is hard to do with a chain saw and keep blades. I might suggest you renting a skid steer with a tree shear for the week end.....will allow you to cut off at ground level. I have cleared many an acre with a chain saw. On larger trees you need to cut most of the limbs off first then the main trunk. I take it that when you say cedar you mean the typical ashe juniper.......not true cedar?Ashe juniper has a relatively shallow root system in the rocky terrain like the hill country and the stumps can eventually be easily bladed up after a year or two after cutting........... If you are going to need to get rid of the stumps.
Clearing cedar with a chain saw is hard work if you have thick large trees as you have to cut the limbs, stack piles, and then cut the trunks. Make sure you get you some extra blades as you will need them.....one bump against a rock and the blade is toast.

I've got a Stihl MS290 FarmBoss. It's extremely heavy. I didn't use it for about six months. When I did, it was a ***** to start and then it died on me repeatedly. The bar oiler system failed on me and the clutch burned out. Was a simple failure, the oil hose just came unattached from the oiler nozzle. Poor design with no way to know it was unattached until it was too late.

The clutch is an easy part to replace, so I ordered one. The bad news is once I got the clutch off, following the recommended procedure, I now can no longer make a full revolution with the crankshaft. Something has damaged the piston or cylinder near top dead center and the piston won't travel within the cylinder as designed.

No problem, right? Just remove the engine head and check it out. WRONG! There is no head. Or, basically, the full cylinder is the head. And the plastic housing is a ***** to disassemble to even get the engine apart.

I lost interest in doing the repair and the whole thing is in pieces in a plastic bin in my garage. Maybe one day when I'm retired and have the free time, I'll fix it.

Chainsaws, like most everything else, are consumables nowadays. Buy something you can afford and with a good warranty, if you want, and use it until it breaks. Throw it away and buy another one.

Stihl

I have an Echo CS400 that has downed and cut up a lot of limbs and whole trees, including live oaks, post oaks, and Eastern Redcedar. It is extremely reliable and easy to start in cold or hot weather, fairly light weight and simple to use. I've been pleased with it.

I have 10 acres with mostly post oak and red cedar but a scattering of other natives. I like my cedar trees. They are pleasingly aromatic and evergreen, so it doesn't look so dead in winter. Of course, most of mine are 30-50 foot trees, and not shrubs. Keep a few maybe, see how you like them.

AggieCowboy said:

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Husqvarna rancher

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This is what I have and it's worked well for me.

If you don't have anything over 12" in Diameter, or at least very little:

My choice is a Top Grab Echo. (CS-303T)

Change out the bar to an 18"

Starts First or Second pull every time.
Light weight. (you can use it with one hand - although OSHA says you shouldn't)

My dad has had one (possibly different model #, but top grab) for over 20 years. I have had one for 8.
Neither has had more than fuel tubing, filter, or primer bulbs replaced

Not What you want if your cutting down a forrest of large trees. But nothing better if you have lots of medium and small stuff.

You won't feel like you got your but whipped after a day of cutting.

I have used medium and large Stihl's, and they are mean s.o.b.s and will certainly get the job done, but the weight makes them my choice only for large cutting. Stihl makes a top grab, but I don't have experience with it, so I can't say if it's a good saw.

Regardless of what you choose, make sure you use E-free gas or Stabilized gas if you plan to let it sit more than a week.

I've cut many trees with Stihl saws and own many Stihl products. I've heard many people recommend Husqvarna as well.

Go to your nearest Stihl or Husqy dealer and find what's right for you.

If you use it a lot, get an extra bar and an extra chain or two.

Keep the chain adjusted and lubed and you should be fine.

Most problems occur after extended periods of sitting unused.

I run VP C12 fuel in my lawn tools. Not just because I like the smell, but because it doesn't have any ethanol in it and I've never had problems letting it sit.

Just get a stihl farm boss and be done with it

Echo or Stihl.

I have an 18 inch Echo. Always starts on the first pull after closing the choke without fail.

I was going to buy Stihl, but they threw in the case for the same price.

Whatever you get, run the fuel out of it before you put it up for awhile, that will ensure its longevity. I prefer Stihl or Echo, currently have a 391, but I've also had two 031AV's that said made in West Germany on them. They ran like champs until the day I sold them.

Our Stihl runs a lot better than the Poulan, both are old and still run decently. Do yourself a favor and get some chainsaw chaps too, I learned that lesson the hard way a few months ago when the blade bounced off a branch in some thick stuff and sliced open my left leg just above the knee. Was lucky to only need 11 stiches and a good round of antibiotics to prevent an infection.

Yep, I always wear the chaps. They double pretty well as brush guards, which is what I guess was the original purpose of chaps anyhow.

I know I'll be shredded here for saying it, but I can recommend the new battery saws on the market. Got the 40 volt Husqvarna a few months ago and have put in a couple of hours with it. Very light and powerful. It powers through larger logs and in a quicker fashion than I had anticipated. I still recommend a gas Stihl, which I've always used, but in some circumstances it's very handy to have this battery machine, i.e., I'm sure my neighbor in my suburban 'hood appreciates me more when I use the battery saw in my back yard...

For the task you mentioned, get an entry level Stihl with a 16" bar. It will be light which makes it easier to climb under those junipers. You can always add a larger one later.

Husky 562 XP excellent entry level professional that can handle everything outside very large DBH trees

Gunny456 said:

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Stihl. Can get parts and service about anywhere.

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And they're made in the USA!

Stihl 250 owner and very satisfied

We've run one on mesquite in STX for at least 5 years now with no issues

Also I think it's the yellow chain that is best for mesquite (or green I forget) but ask for the the best chain for mesquite - that's what the guy at the store recommends for longest lasting chain. My store was out when I bought so waiting to pick one up myself

That would be the yellow, the yellow is a more aggressive pitch. The green is a less aggressive pitch and is suggested for beginners. More aggressive chain you get the more wood you remove, but also the more likely you are to get a kick back.

For smaller chain saws, I'd go Echo. I've had small engine shop guys tell me Echos are better than Stilh on the smaller end. Either way, go to one of those small engine shops and get one there -- per their recommendations. Good place to get it serviced when needed.

The one that someone else runs

I used to be a Stihl dealer in a previous career. This is NOT typical. You should take it to a service center and they should make it right.

I have a Stihl Wood Boss that is 35 years old, replaced the start rope and changed from points to electronic ignition about 16 years ago. It starts with 2-3 pulls even after sitting for months at a time. I'd buy another one if this one quits.

Another happy Stihl MS250 owner here.

Stihl ms251 great. Go to stihl place and buy the lightest weight with the biggest engine you can afford. Ms251 is about it would love to have a 261