Bought my current house about a year ago just noticed that I have a small leak on the roof. The roof toward the back of the house has two different pitches and the leak is just under where the two roofs join. It looks like the shingles don't go all the way in the crack and when the wind blows the right way the water gets in. Any good ideas on how I should fix it? I called a couple roofers but most of them seemed gun shy about fixing a leaky roof.


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flashing

Nuke it. It's the only way to be sure.

nimrodag99 said:

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flashing

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How would I flash where it get more narrow?

quit watering it!

MoparAg said:

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nimrodag99 said:

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flashing

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How would I flash where it get more narrow?

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Why are you asking us? You are a Mopar guy. You should be used to fixing *****

You need a flashing that makes a 90 degree angle. One side goes on the bottom part (you'll have to remove the shingles) and the other part slides up the fascia board and behind the 1x2. You cut the top part along the roof line. So the flashing makes a triangle to fill that gap.

Pretty tough to explain. Tried to google a pic but no luck.

spray foam the hell out of it under that crack, that stuff is a miracle worker in small spaces like that.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF-16-oz-Gaps-and-Cracks-Insulating-Foam-Sealant-with-Quick-Stop-Straw-99053937/206977048

Also, the pitch over the patio doesn't seem to be steep enough for shingles. When you get a new roof down the road you might want to consider modified bitumen there.

lotsofhp said:

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Also, the pitch over the patio doesn't seem to be steep enough for shingles. When you get a new roof down the road you might want to consider modified bitumen there.

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Yeah I agree, also the lump that is right there at the transition is causing water to shed sideways towards your exposed fascia instead of following the roof line. You can use roof tar for the easiest fix, but that porch should either be mid bit or you need to put ice and water guard under shingles before re-shingling it. What city are you in? I can find you a roofer that fixes leaks.

I think you need the flashing near the brick going up the roof line. Make sure to start on the bottom and overlap as you work your way towards where the roof lines meet.

SnowboardAg said:

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I think you need the flashing near the brick going up the roof line. Make sure to start on the bottom and overlap as you work your way towards where the roof lines meet.

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He most likely does, it's just behind that fascia board. The shingles go under it and butt up to the step or L flashing.

Quick and cheap, but not permanent, NP1 sealant.

Correct and permanent fix would be ice and water shield and flashIng. Going to need to tear out and replace under a bundle of shingles.

You can get away with shingles as long as that is 2/12 or steeper. But you need to put ice and water shield as your underlayment for that transition and probably all that lower pitch area under your shingles.

That's called J flashing. You can also use step flashing. Also, get some kick out flashing to re-route the water from the edge of your roof transition. I agree with your pitch. It's too shallow and you may be dealing with leaks on that. I'd recommend heavier felt (maybe 30lb) if you don't want to change your roof pitch.

SpiDer09 said:

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That's called J flashing. You can also use step flashing. Also, get some kick out flashing to re-route the water from the edge of your roof transition. I agree with your pitch. It's too shallow and you may be dealing with leaks on that. I'd recommend heavier felt (maybe 30lb) if you don't want to change your roof pitch.

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What I was saying was, it's already going to be there, behind that fascia overhang. 30lb get isn't more water proof than 15lb, the uses are for different pitches because of the walkability that changes when your roof pitch reaches about an 8 pitch.

Flex seal. You can float a boat with that stuff..

*Not a roofer, but a home inspector.

Most single manufacturers require at least a 3 on 12 slope to warranty them. This slope is much less.

It looks like the cheapest/ best way is going to be remove some shingles and install some metal flashing/ roofing at the different pitch transitions that would allow it drain towards the person taking the picture. There is a dip there at the transition, that is going to need to be remedied. Any kind of caulking or sealant is a temporary fix.

As stated, on a low pitch roof, a bitumen membrane would be your best bet if you wasn't a "shingle" look.

Some of the trapezoidal standing seam products can be mounted on a 1/4" on 12" pitch. MBCI has a couple of metal commercial roof products that actually look pretty nice installed.

Here's what you need OP



Don't paint the 1x2 though.