You're S&J Fence? I'm drive by your place all the time going to Whataburger on Leopard. Small world. No I don't eat there every weekday.

Brush Country, what's the difference between no climb horse fence and regular horse fence? And then how do each of those compare to the links below?

49" x 330' high-tensile cattle fence

49" x 330' high-tensile fence

In the second link, is the only difference compared to the cattle fence the spacing in the bottom horizontal rows?

This would be for around a portion of the house for a dog fence only. Between the two linked fences and the two different horse fences, what would you recommend?

Also, what would you charge to build a fence like the one in the little photo you linked? My best estimate for right now is 225' of fence with two gates. What do use for the rails on that type? 1 x 6, 2 x 6, 1 x 8, or 2 x 8? What about the rail cap? Is that 2 x 6 or 2 x 8? I planned to use 1 x 6 treated corral boards for the rails, unless those are not good enough. Then treated pine for the rest, no cedar.

Planning to DIY it, but just curious how much extra I would pay someone else than what I could get all the materials for.

Yessir, but we moved from that location over to NPID frontage in the fall. Better location, but no Whataburger.

No climb horse wire has 2"x4" continuous squares whereas the Stay Tuff Fence you linked has larger spacing. But the Stay Tuff wire is a great wire, we are a dealer and sell an install a lot of it. If your dogs are large, either of those will prob be fine.

I think the photo I linked is all 4x4 posts with 2x4 rails and cap. Of course, you can upgrade to 4x6 or 6x6 posts and 2x6 rails if you want a more substantial look, but it just costs you more. Its really personal preference. Its been a little while since I priced a fence like that, but I'd guess a project of that size would come out in the $25-$35/ft range, materials and labor. That's our price, I will make no bones about it, we are expensive, but people hire us because they feel assured that we will deliver in all aspects of the project and not leave them high and dry. In other words, you can probably get it cheaper than that price if you are willing to take a little risk with a smaller fence contractor (not that I recommend that).

The whataburger on greenwood or old Brownsville road is better anyway...but the people who work there aren't as friendly. Sadly there isn't nearly as high a chance to buy a bum lunch or have a conversation with a crazy person either.

So if a person wanted 2.5 miles of 949-6 class 3 put up, what kind of posts would you recommend? Some of the land is dirt but it has a rock bottom creek going thru it too.

Anyone have recommendations on hole drilling in rock? I've heard people say 3 pt mounted Belltecs work better than loader mounted ones, but then some folks tell me I need an air drill. Perhaps someone can recommend a quality fence contractor in Central Texas north of Austin.

TIA.

T posts. They were invented for a reason.

But what about braces, and is it worth going galvanized instead of reject new pipe?

milkman00 said:

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But what about braces, and is it worth going galvanized instead of reject new pipe?

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We still talmbout a continuous rail fence? It doesn't need braces if done right. A typical field fence needs braces.

No, I was talking about fixed knot cattle fence wire like in Khkman22's link above.

I've put up 1348-6 before on a stretch of fence. That wire takes a long time to tie if you want to do it right. The first number or two (in a 4 number wire) is how many horizontal wires there are, and the last two numbers are the height of the wire. The dash 6 means that there are vertical wires every 6 inches, as opposed to -12, which only has verticals every foot.

Down here we mostly use wood posts for our braces, usually an 8x10 CCA. Pipe is good too, I think either option will hold up well, it's just a matter of what you can get at a good price and what you prefer.