Just wanted to get some opinions. Putting up a tower blind this weekend but doing it in sections.

How have you guys attached the walls to the floor normally. Nails? Screws? Lags? Staggered pattern?

A little more info...All wood construction. Wall framing is treated 2x4, floor is plywood sitting on top of treated 2x6s.

TIA.

I'd use lots of wood screws

Bolts with washers. 3/8" diameter hot dipped galvanized with either fender washers or square washers is probably more than sufficient, but will provide a very strong connection.

Since I believe in doing things over the top, I'd go 16" OC with the bolts. You are probably talking about a dozen or so anyway total, unless your blind is pretty good sized, so it's more or less insignificant in terms of cost or labor to do the installation. At minimum, no less than 2 bolts on any side, but preferably a minimum of 1 at the corner and one at mid-span.

I'd also put some blocking between the floor joists where you will be installing the bolts (just a 2x4 nailed to the joists), but that's just me.

So, for example, if your blind is 4'-0" x 4'-0", each wall would be the same - a bolt at the corner and one at mid span, for a total of 12 bolts.

If your blind is 4'-0" x 8'-0", the 4'-0" sides would have 3 bolts each and the 8'-0" sides would have a minimum of 6 bolts each.

(hey, I said it was overkill)



[This message has been edited by schmellba99 (edited 3/3/2014 10:02a).]

I agree with schmelba on using bolts, especially since we're talking about a tower blind made of wood. I wouldn't want to worry about that thing deteriorating and falling apart while someone is in it.

If it was a ground blind I'd go with just wood screws

[This message has been edited by Bird dog (edited 3/3/2014 9:41a).]

*not trying to "educate" you, just assuming this may be the first tower blind you have ever done!

A failing ground blind just falls apart. A failing tower blind can cause injury or worse.

ALWAYS over-engineer and over-build when you are on a tower blind.

bolt together all walls, roof and floor. Caulk every joint to keep out moisture (and bugs/wasps) to minimized hidden wood rot. Tie down the tower.

Finally, don't leave any exposed t-posts or rebar sticking out of the ground anywhere near the ladder....you don't want anything that has the potential to impale you just in case a slip or fall happens.

schmellba99- So you're saying putting a bolt through the sill plate through the plywood floor? I was originally thinking of just driving some .25" lags into the beams of the floor framing. I was worried just relying on the plywood would not be secure enough, but I see what you are saying about blocking near the connections.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Yep, if it were me I'd install the blocking between the stringers where the bolts will go simply because I personally wouldn't want the forces of windloads imparted on the plywood itself. It's probably more than sufficient strength wise, but I personally would prefer the stress being put on the blocking/deck/joists combination.

Drill a 3/8" hole through the sill plate, deck and blocking, then install the bolt and washer. It is likely 10x more than you need strength wise, but it's not that much effort and will be structurally better than even a lag bolt will be because you aren't depending on the threads in the wood for your structural strength - you are bypassing that and using nuts/washers over a much larger surface area that isn't as dependent on wood not drying out.

Again, way overkill, but for a minimal amount of additional effort and cost it would be my method.

I'm with schmellba99, overbuild and you will never be sorry!!

Ok got it. Easy enough to do, thanks for the help.