To come down to my place and give me a crash course in proper line routing for implements, etc. I will provide beer or whiskey for your services.

I live near Angleton, about 30 miles south of Houston. Any takers?

[This message has been edited by Bunkerhill (edited 6/11/2012 6:21a).]

Hooking up a disc or mower?
Get it right once and use colored ty wraps to identify the lines.
The Grranimals method.

Muzzle,

I have a 6 way blade on the front and a finish mower on the back. The hydraulic lines are run all over the place, and i dont know what is what. Unfortunately Kubota makes finding operational info online difficult. Right now my 3 point hitch wont raise up at all.

It is probably very simple to learn, but i am a hands on guy.

That doesn't sound right. Hooking implement hydraulics into the SCV's should not affect the three point hitch unless somehow you have all hydraulic flow directed to the SCV's. I know on older large row crop tractors if the SCV's are all turned up it will make the three point sluggish to pick up. I know nothing about Kubota's though.

Match ever pair of hydraulic hoses from each hydraulic cylinder and plug them into each SCV. Check to see if the implement moves correctly when you move the lever. If not, switch the matching hoses around in the SCV.

That's about all I can tell you without seeing the thing.

Advice is good so far. Make sure your hydraulic oil is full and filters clean. As said above, remote cylinders should not effect a three-point lift unless you're trying to move everything at once.

If you are getting nothing, unhook every remote and start from scratch. I think it may be possible that you have different cylinders hooked up to the same remote. Kill the tractor, and cycle all the hydraulic controls to relieve pressure. Don't ever get underneath any implement. Don't bet your life on hoses and valves.

If the three-point doesn't move with all the remotes unhooked, something is wrong with the hydraulic system itself. This is assuming that your three point system is integral.

If it's working with all the remotes unhooked, start reconnection and testing them one at a time. Find one cylinder, find both hoses from that cylinder, and trace them back. Plug the pair of hoses from one cylinder into one pair of remote outlets. Test and assure proper operation before connecting the next.

On John Deere, you hook up all remotes so that pulling rearward on the control raises, pushing forward lowers. Have the same consistency with your controls.

Is your fluid level okay?

Are your pressure reliefs set too low?

So it's not how it's hooked up ( maybe ) but the other guys are correct. Fluid levels and filters. I would change the filters and make sure I was topped up on oil.
The 3 pt. lift thing is baffling unless something is crossed up in the lines.

Comply with OB Rule #1 and post 12,000 detailed photos and we'll figure it out or mess you up so bad you'll scrap the unit.

You may also need to check the speed switch. It is usually located right behind the plugs in the back. THink of them like a resistor for electricity. If you turn them up too high you will blow the plugs out and have a bit of a mess, but if they are too low nothing will happen.

I'm also not too far from you. I would be happy to come down and help, I have customers not too far from there so I will have to go close over there soon anyways. The only problem is that I am going out of town for a few days tomorrow. I might could make it over there next Friday or squeeze out a Saturday afternoon.

Feel free to email me and I will have to see what my schedule is doing.

quote:

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So it's not how it's hooked up ( maybe )

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Depends. If it was working and quit, and nobody messed with the lines, then I agree.

If he just went out and hooked it up himself and couldn't get anything to work, being hooked up wrong is a big possibility.

Can I get in on this class? I'll be installing a used FEL in a few weeks, and the seller didn't leave me squat with regards to instructions on which port does what. I have the adapter block for the on board hydraulics, but like geniuses, they did not put a flow arrow on it, so I have no idea which is pressure, and which is return.

I suppose I could turn uover the starter with no fuel and see which port the fluid flows out of.

There is a hydraulic flow restrictor that controls the speed ( hydraulic fluid flow and return ) of the lift. Best I remember it is only for the 3point lift. Should be located under the seat area. Set it halfway and see if things move.

Seeing the problem would help.

Post a movie and I'm sure we'll solve it.

I will try to get pictures posted tomorrow so that maybe somebody can straighten my mess out.

I finally got it all powerwashed and cleaned, so that should help with the pictures.

I've found the restrictor control (below the seat) and it doesn't seem to have any effect one way or another on the 3 point operation. I also think that the problem is most likely low fluid, but I'm still not sure.

I have a block on the front, but i'm in the same boat as Mouth in his post above - I have no clue which port is which and don't have any instructions for it. There is alos a line coming off the back of the tractor (just forward of the rear axle) that has a hose run and connected to the same block, and I don't know that this line should be run this way - could also be part of the problem.

Like I said, a huge mess.

quote:

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I have a block on the front, but i'm in the same boat as Mouth in his post above - I have no clue which port is which and don't have any instructions for it.

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I'm going to guess this is a set of valves for the front end loader. If you don't have enough outlets to run everything, sometimes they'll add a second set of valves.

My guess is that there will be a single pressure and return line leading to the block with 2 or more working lines going to the FEL. To get the FEL working, you probably have to block the remote "on" to provide constant pressure to the block.

Does this help?

Or this?

Orange Tractor Talks dot com

Also watch for air in the hydraulics. Enough air in there, it will just compress and not move a darn thing. I know that much.

One of those links may have helped Canyon.

I think the 3 point line from the back of the tractor up to the block is probably installed on a wrong port.

Unfortunately, Kubota blows goats in terms of having information online. Trying to find an operator's manual for the hydraulic block I have is pretty much impossible. I have to admit, I'm extremely disappointed with this aspect of their company.

I don't think what I'm looking for is asking all that much, but apparently it is. And it looks like odds are I'll have to blow through about 37 gallons of hydraulic fluid and a long weekend just trying to figure this shti out, or find a trailer and haul my tractor to a dealership and pay them to do it. Either option sounds like shti to me.

Have you looked online for a manual? There are several places that have them. I used http://farmmanualsfast.com/ for a digital download. Sorry, they don't appear to have Kubota, but it's a good link for anyone else needing old tractor manuals. I got a Technical Manual (service) for a John Deere combine at a fraction of the cost of new from Deere.

I can't vouch for the value or safety of the site, but here's one I stumbled across for Kubota:

http://kubotabooks.com/

kubotabooks.com is way out of date, I've looked there and asked a few questions on orangetractortalks.com, but no dice so far.

The good news is that Kubota manuals are relatively inexpensive - I downloaded the complete parts manual for about $12, and ordered the Operator's Manual for about $60. The service manual I believe is also under $100. The bad news is that dealers are just about the only place you can go and get them.

I may just take a bunch of pictures and make a sketch and head to my dealer and make them show me what needs to be changed so that it works. If they won't, I'm sure I can find somebody that will, and they will ultimately get my money in the future as a result.

I get frustrated when simple things are made overly complicated.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/2010/10/how-to-tap-hydraulic-lines/

Nope, read that one too. All that talks about is physically cutting your hydraulic lines to add a block. Doesn't go into any information on the actual block or how individual implement lines should be plumbed.

If it's not too far, there a good Ag named Rick Pryor (class of 76) who lives near Madisonville who I assume still does tractor repair.

What model tractor?

May have gotten low on fluid and as mentioned earlier, need an air bleed.
What size tractor is it? Mine is a Kubota 8200 4WD and I have the LA 1251 front end loader. I have the manuals for my tractor but they really aren't a lot of help.

Kubota B2410

I talked to a few of the guys here, and they suggested several of the things already mentioned.. Low fluid level, air in the line, draft setting too low, etc.. But they said a picture would be very helpful.

They also asked what the year and model number is, has the 3 point worked in the past, did you try disconnecting all the remotes?

I would be glad to run it by our mechanics to see if they can help.

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I completely forgot to take pictures this morning, so I'll have to remember to do it tomorrow morning.

I just can't imagine why something has turned into being this difficult and frustrating.

I had a Case once that I think the hydraulics broke three times in my Dad's lifetime. Interior was in little pieces.

Schem - Email me some pictures and a description on what you are trying to accomplish. My dad has been a farm equipment mechanic for the last 35 years. The dealership where he works has also been selling Kubota the past 15 years so he can probably help.

When you have the tractor running and try to raise the 3 pt lift does it cause the engine to "bog down" or load? If so, that is most likely a crossed line.

You could start another thread and see if someone has a manual for your model tractor. They could scan or copy the sections you need.

Worth a try.

I like reloading problems better than tractor issues.

Ok, here is what I have.


I've included a picture of the valve, the two front ports on the tractor and the rear port on the tractor. Each picture is labeled with how the hoses are currently routed, which is obviously not the correct way. I'm guessing that it's probably a matter of switching 1 or two hoses over to the correct ports, but I don't know which ports they are.


The blade is actually a 4 way blade, not a 6 way. I have 2 cylinders on it for up/down and angle left/angle right. The only issue with this is that the joystick is backwards on the up/down - it should be pull back on the joystick, blade goes up. But it's opposite on that aspect only. I can live with this as the blade is temporary anyway, though if it's a simple fix to get it correct I'll do that too.


Let me know what you think.







[This message has been edited by schmellba99 (edited 6/13/2012 12:07p).]

you see those two lines that cross in the last pic...

uncross them and you should (un)reverse the up-down motion.

I tried that Rebel - down worked great. Up, however, was another issue. As in it wouldn't go up.

when crossed, down might be powered by gravity... My first guess is that line is connected to the return line.


On that valve block, which lines are your pressure, return, and case drain?