Ask the Agronomist(TM) says .....
I have hesitated to weigh in on this subject, but here goes .....
I'll start with planting hybrid bermudagrass, a subject which I knw just a little about. I hesitate to tell anyone to plant bermudagrass after 10/1. It's not the amount of warmth you get, but the shortness of the days combined with the possibility of frost within 30-45 days. With the short day length, even Coastal has a hard time making enough growth to be safe from damage with early cold weather. $150+/acre is a big investment to lose by being too anxious. In East Texas, go ahead and get your soil samples NOW. If lime is needed (it almost always is in the Piney Woods area) get it out in December and disk it in. YOU WILL NEVER GET ANOTHER GOOD CHANCE TO WORK LIME DOWN IN THE PROFILE LIKE YOU WILL NOW. Don't poor boy it. Do it right. Next, get ready to put you pre-plant phosphorus/potassium, and nitrogen out in February and work it in with the last disking. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT LET ANY OF THE LOCAL YOKELS TALK YOU INTO "SEEING IF YOU GET A STAND" BEFORE FERTILIZING!!!!!!! You wouldn't pull a baby calf off of momma to see if it was any good before letting it nurse, would you? I am a fan of Tifton more than Jiggs. I saw some Jiggs stands get nailed last winter with the cold. It reminds me a bunch of the old "Alecia" variety - long runners that die back to the original "mother" plant when it gets really cold. Tifton can be planted from sprigs or tops (late spring for tops). By all means, go visit your local NRCS office to see if you are eligible for cost-share under the EQIP program for the planting next spring. 65% reimbursement (more for beginning farmers) beats eating all of it yourself.
Now for the rest of the subject .... Hybrid bermudagrass is a desert for wldlife. Period. It can be improved in East Texas by overseeding clover and ryegrass, but that really doesn't do quail populations much good. As far as "eliminating it from the countryside", that is utter nonsense. What native grass can you plant in March and be bailing hay off of in July? Even if all goes right, native grasses will be doing darn good to give you a stand you can graze in the dormant season of the planting year. Most times it is at least 2 years to get a good stand (I have supervised the planting of 10s of thousands of acres of it). To top it off, even in East Texas, you will do well to graze an animal unit to 8 or 10 acres on natives vs. 1 au to 3 or 4 acres on coastal, even with moderate fertility. When working with landowners, I usually look at what is there to begin with. If there is a chance of saving a half ass native stand, I will recommend grazing management and time to preserve the natives. If they are shot and the manager wants volume, I will go with improved grasees.
By the way, quail do not know the difference between a kleingrass bunch and a little bluestem bunch when it comes to nesting, and don't care if they are eating a bundleflower seed or a crimson clover seed. Habitat variety is still the key. Food, shelter, loafing areas, nesting cover, and bugs are the keys - whether "native" or introduced.