for killing off mesquite? Do you have to have any special permit to purchase it?

I just picked some up a tractor supply and you do not need a private applicator license.

...for Remedy.

Reclaim used to be so expensive is was not cost effective.

But now with the cost of diesel, the Reclaim/Remedy mix with water may be the cheaper route. Only drawback is that it works better in the hot summer months.
Remedy+diesel works almost year round.

Reclaim does not require app. lic. (TSC or most coop/feed stores carry both).

I do the stump cut Remedy+diesel but, my mesquite problem is small and almost non existent in the main pastures after three years. I don't think you can get more cost effective than Remedy and diesel on a cut stump.

yeah, mine are like small trees. Small enough to kill, but too big to run over with the shredder.

If i had to buy one, which would you recomend, reclaim or remedy?

[This message has been edited by jed1154 (edited 4/28/2008 4:08p).]

http://texnat.tamu.edu/brushbusters/Mesquite.htm

If you buy one it should be remedy (mix with diesel) (Stem treatment)

Buy both= remedy+reclaim+water (Leaf treatment)

The foliar treatment is actually quite a bit cheaper. However, you can do the stump treatment year-round, while the foliar treatment can only be done once the mesquites have hardened off. Personally, I prefer the stump treatment.

Yaupon Holly control....

I've got a customer with about an acre of little yaupons less than 2' high. (He clear cut them out about 18 months ago)

What is the TexAgs opinion on killing these little bastages? Foliar with round up? Basal with Remedy/Diesel?

Producers Co-op in Bryan. Second best Co-op in the state.

no license required if it starts with an R...
Roundup, Reclaim, Remedy

however you do need a special license for applying rrrrxzlchzycpq

but seriously if you do the foliar application of the mix of Remedy,Reclaim,Water and surfactant, here are some tips:

1. always use a surfactant. You can dump a bunch of cheap liquid soap in it if you dont want to buy surfactant.

2. It works best if the day is hot. (hardly ever a problem)

3. It works best if it has recently rained and is in a growth spurt.

4. dont miss a spot (of leaves) or it wont die

5. dont spray if it looks like rain

6. it doesnt work as well late in the summer/fall... best April,May,June,July

I use the foliar method. It's cheaper and more effective. It's also less labor intensive.

If you're only going to use one of Remedy/Reclaim - don't bother. They work great together, separately not so well.

When you have to go back and respray the 80% that didn't die from Remedy only mix, then it doesn't seem so cheap.

I can't remember the soil temp, but it needs to be warm. For most Texas, you shouldn't spray before June 15th. It works before then, but not as well. Same story in the fall.

Definately, hit all the leaves. You're always going to miss a few but getting 95% of leaves is usually good enough to kill. After I spray, I do a walkthrough about two weeks later. Then I hit the trees that I missed and finish off the 5% of leaves that I missed.

I don't use a surfactant. I've done both and didn't notice enough difference to mess with it.

Using my methodology, I've been averaging between 95% to 99% kill rate.

I really like the triclopyr/clopyralid foliar mix. If you have trees that are single stemmed and still smooth barked at the base, the stem spray method may be more effective. For multi-stemmed trees, and trees already showing rough bark at the base, the foliar spray is the way to go.

For foliar spray, I usually mix mine at 1/2% each, with 5% diesel, and enough dish soap to adequately emulsify the diesel. The dish soap also acts as a surfactant, and the diesel a penetrant. I've tried a couple different brands of dish soap, and Dawn has been what I've had the best luck with.

I try to spray when the soil temperature 10-12" deep reaches 75 degrees F or higher. In my neck of the woods in North Texas, that's usually right about the July 4th weekend.

I avoid spraying when there is a lot of active growth in the canopy. This includes after a rain when there is a lot of light green growth on the canopy, the trees are in the white flower stage, and the trees are putting on beans. If the canopy is mostly a nice, dark green color, the trees are in the yellow flower stage, or the beans have fully elongated, the trees are more susceptible to spray.

I prefer to spray in the morning or late evening. If there is dew on the leaves, I wait for it to burn off before I start. I do this for two reasons. One is it is cooler on me spraying if I'm doing something else in the heat of the day. The other is hot temperatures increase the amount of volatilization of your spray. I want your spray to penetrate into the plant, not evaporate into the atmosphere.

I use blue dye. It makes it easier to see what leaves I've hit and what I've missed, and it also temporarily marks the trees I've sprayed so I don't accidentally double cover some. I make sure I hit every leaf.

As birdman said, I go back through the area twice. Once one week later, another two weeks later. If I missed anything, I hit it again during a walk through.

I really like to spray by the sign if possible. Sometimes, things just don't work out that way for me. Either I've got too much, or the sign just doesn't fall at a time I can get it done, but I think it makes a lot of difference.

Understand that spraying is not grubbing. I don't get a 100% kill every time. But most of the time, I'll successfully kill 90-95% of the trees I spray on the first pass. Some of them will try to leave out again and die. It takes 2-3 years to accurately measure what I've killed and what I haven't.

If the plants have been previously top-killed, they are hard to kill with spray. I usually give them 2-3 years to recover before hitting them with spray. It takes a while for the canopy to catch back up to the root systems, and get enough growth on the canopy to get adequate amounts of chemicals in the plant to kill the roots.

The Brushbusters book is N.A.I.L.S on mesquite. Multistem = foliar w/Remedy and Reclaim mix. Timing is crucial with the ground temp and maturity. Look at foliar when the leaves turn from bright to dark green. Single stem = streamline basal or cut stump w/remedy and diesel. Yaupon = cut stump w/ remedy and diesel

TechTard has good stuff there.

[This message has been edited by B-1 83 (edited 4/28/2008 8:39p).]

I cut the mesq at the ground spray the stump with a 15% Remedy/diesel mix. If under 2" diameter and smooth bark just spray the trunk with the same mix. I am getting around a 95%+ kill rate. I use a skid loader with hyd shear to cut the trees

for me we have a different species honey locust, Ive found picloram does a good job. Grazon or tordon in the fall late summer will do a great job. I would think any foliar treament would work best at that time.


[This message has been edited by TRG ghost (edited 4/28/2008 11:37p).]

[This message has been edited by TRG ghost (edited 4/28/2008 11:38p).]

I have a 'patch' of these things. As in, i am going to have to work my way into them slowly. Its too thick to drive or walk into , so im going to have to hit the perimeter and work my way inward. So far, the best thing i have done is going through with my brush hog and hit all of the ones that have small and/or brittle thorns and are small enough for me to run over with the shredder. I know they are going to come back, but this is a part i shred weekly. I can keep those knoced way down until i get the chemical thing figured out.

I can see im going to have to purchase some sort of sprayer for the tractor.

Im going to keep this thread up, because once i get a hold of this stuff, im going to come back and read through the tips.

Anyone know how much this stuff costs?

[This message has been edited by jed1154 (edited 4/29/2008 10:03a).]

Just save the brushbusters link above.