Does it do something for it besides make it heavier and look more snazzy? I guess it might make it a little stiffer, maybe...

they're more $$$

That's it? Wow.

Round pipe = more expensive because there is more metal. They also hold up alot better than angle or square tube.

I'm no expert, but I'd also say it's more difficult to construct & takes more time.

Yeah, I figure so. Round pipe means that there are not so many weak joints. I'm still looking for a trailer for my ~3000lb semi-compact tractor, and cost is an issue. Round pipers, the cheapest, start at about $1500, but I can get an angle iron rig for about $900. All it has to do is move the tractor a dozen times a year for about 50 miles. Damn, too bad I haven't used one before extensively...don't know what is "enough" trailer.

The funny part is, the trailer frame underneath the bed on either type all seems about the same for the same axle weight class...

I work with some weld engineers and the consensus is that the welds are seam welds (all the way around) and not butt welds (one edge).

My guess is that the round pipe can handle the weight better.

Don't forget to inspect your rig for rust and be sure to treat the rust ASAP once you see it. It's cheaper to scrape and repaint rather than to hire out a welder to repair...

What most of you call a "pipe" trailer is not top framed with ordinary pipe but oilfield tubing ... either 2 3/8 or 2 /7/8 diameter. The side wall thickness of o/f tubing is greater than other types of pipe and gives the trailer greater strength. Depending on the loads driven up on them, lighter constructed trailers will tend to "dovetail" if heavier loads are driven on them up a ramp.

Having a set of 10,000 pound tandem axles doesn't help the tail end of a lightweight trailer when you drive even a 3,000 pound tractor onto the tailboard ... the stress in on the point of the trailer where the rear axle spring attaches to the frame.

Yep, I'm looking at pipe trailers now. I figured that it might be wise to come up with some sort of jacks to support the rear end of the trailer when loading a tractor, but of course the place where they are situated would have to be adequately reinforced. I also already have the load ramps. When I bought it, we loaded it on a an angle rail trailer, and it did put a lot of pressure on the tail end of the trailer. The toughest part is centering the tractor so the mass is over the axles and the tounge weight isn't a huge amount.

I already have the 3/4 ton towing truck, and a big arse industrial tarp to store it under...for now. I'm not quite a farmer, but I've done some brushing with the tractor already, and it sure seems to handle the 5 foot shredder adequately, even when I accidentally drag it across some 4 inch thick dead limbs....oops..

Also not particularly worried about welding. I have my own wire feed welding machine, though I really need a bigger one to weld on a trailer like this. Mine only does 200 amps, so 3/16 steel is about as much as it can handle.

Should not be that bad to load with no jacks on back, but if you need them or just would feel better they make a jack(for use on the tongue) that could be installed on the rear very easily and are removable for towing. I do not know the exact name, but they have a round nipple that welds onto the trailer and the jack has a collar that slides over the nipple and then is held on by a removable pin.I use them because you can remove them, do not have to wind them all the way up to keep from dragging off or bending and they seem to last a long time...

a pipe section can withstand more force than an angle section of the same material and thickness.

save the money for jacks and just cut a couple of pieces of railroad ties. cut them short enough to slide under the rear frame but long enough so that when the weight hits the back of the trailer, it sets down on the ties

Nice call on the wood blocks...if I can find some. I still might weld on some jacks..depends on cost and feasability when I get around to it.

An angle frame trailer is probably strong enough for what you are doing, it's not like you're hauling a D-6 Caterpillar.

A pipe frame trailer is stronger, but the stiffness of the trailer is influenced more by the depth of the side rails and cross bracing than angle vs. pipe. You will probably bend the frame on each before you break a weld, so that's not really an issue. Pipe top also takes a lot more abuse when you run into the side with an implement or tire.

Pipe trailers usually come with heavier axles, better tires, better jacks, etc. because they are a step up over angle frame trailers. You could get away with an angle frame, but you may find a use for a heavier trailer down the line. I don't really see much difference from a towing standpoint, they both should pull like nothing is back there on a 3/4 ton truck (empty that is).

C&M Trailer in Ennis can set you up with a new pipe rail trailer for $795.

http://www.candmtrailers.net/id10.html

Good prices. Too bad it is way the hell up there in Ennis... Doh!

A 3 hour drive from Spring might be worth it to save $700 IMHO.

I researched trailers for several years before I bought a steel boat trailer and converted it to a 6x12 utility trailer myself.

I have not seen a single pipe trailer (utility trailer) yet that was constructed any differently than the same size angle iron trailer with the exception of the top rail being pipe.

It may be stronger than angle iron, it's definitely nicer to sit on and it looks better. OTOH, tie-down hooks are easier to attach to angle iron. There is not sigificantly more welding involved when attaching a pipe rail but the angle iron verticals must be coped to fit the pipe.

Call Steel Supply or Triple-S steel in Houston for the cost per foot of 2x2x3/16 angle and 2" schedule 40 to get an idea of the cost difference in material. The pipe rail option is overpriced by most all trailer manufacturers.

SV

Depends on what kind of oilfield pipe you lay your hands on. If it's 2-3/8 H40 you will have 50% more surface area versus 2x2 angle iron. In addition the wall thickness will be about twice the aforementioned 3/16" angle iron.

That's why they will support more if they are built the same way.

I found a place here in Houston that sells a 16 foot basic utility trailer for $795 with a light angle top, actually. Ironically, it is a new outfit with a sales lot just a couple of miles from my house... Pipe top option is only $100 more. Not too shabby. I do agree on it being easier to hook tiedowns to an angle rail. Now I have to decide if I should bother with brakes on one axle or not...

Does the tractor weigh 3000# ?

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That's why they will support more if they are built the same way.

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Doesn't the fact that it's a circle and closed make it inherently stronger than something like angle iron or a channel beam assuming they are the same thickness and same type of metal?

Should NOT tie or secure ANYTHING to top rail no matter if Pipe or angle. Always secure to frame.....ALWAYS. As to brakes on one axle I would say most likely you do not need them. For occasional use with a ¾ ton truck if you watch what you are doing you should be good. With brakes not only do you have the cost of the controller and the brakes you have adjustments and such and if you do not pull it every day or at least every week and keep up with the maintenance when you need them they will not work, so might as well go without them. Do get GOOD trailer tires, not only do they work into the load capacity equation it is a real pain in the rear to have a flat when you are loaded. Hint: jacks are VERY hard to get under utility trailers with flat or blown out tires....

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Hint: jacks are VERY hard to get under utility trailers with flat or blown out tires....

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Hint - If you have a dual axle trailer, maybe real easy. If you have a big rock, piece of wood, etc, just ride the good tire up on the object and presto! Instant jack.

Figured that one out when I couldn't find a jack when I had a flat.

God put the perfect rock 10 feet from where I pulled over. My Jesus rock.
1 Corinthians 10:4 "... and that rock was Christ."

I don't agree with not using the rails for tie-down points unless the load requires it, the compact utility tractor as an example.

Also, why on earth do you need to add extra weight to the trailer with oilfield pipe? The rails need to be strong but that is overkill unless someone drops heavy loads on them.

My boat trailer conversion had a 4" channel frame and I used 3" channel for the tongue, the finished trailer rides great empty or loaded but at the cost of 5-8 mpg (highway) in my truck.

A 100.00 upgrade for the pipe rails sounds like a deal.

For the Houston folks, there is a guy on the SE side that builds rolling frames that the buyer finishes out. He sells on eBay and a search for utility trailer in Houston should find his product.

SV

I know this is an old post, but i was told that the upper rail being tube or square vs angle iron is purely looks, seeing as how the weight of your load sits on the trailer floor and not the railing. In general the tube or square railing is stronger but if the railing isn't load bearing then that square or tube railing is non functional.

Look at the trailer capacity rating. I can buy a 20' angle trailer with no breakers with 3500 tandem axles for less than $2000. We use thes for hauling lite bulk material.

A pipe top with heavier axles (can't remember if the next step up is 5k or 7k axles) with breaks is more suitable for hauling a tractor.

I have an angle equipment trailer with 10k axles tandem. The angles is like 4" wide and thicker that the the above mentioned angle trailer.

Look at the trailer rating

I agree that if your load is evenly distributed, then the top rail section doesn't matter. However, when the load is uneven, such as when loading the tractor on the tail and the tongue is held down by the truck, the rail will bend same as the floor frame (down on the ends and up in the middle) and a pipe rail is very much stronger than angle. Same can be said for going down the road - much less twisting with a pipe rail.

I'm just wondering why someone created a profile and then bumped a thread from 12 years ago.

Txgunrnnr said:

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I'm just wondering why someone created a profile and then bumped a thread from 12 years ago.

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It's the interweb and happens often, who knows. TexAgs is public and comes up in Google searches. I typically just ignore any thread that has an old creation date and assume it's a spam post like this.