RRA two stages are the best bang for the buck right now. You will pay extra for them though.

I love my 2-stage on my RRA, your have extremely precise control on every shot.

No, the RR national match is a good trig. I have one and am pleased with it. They had to grind it a little to fit properly in my bushy lower, but I had them knock it down to 2# pull while they had it. They did all the work free of charge also. I will say I put a JARD single stage adjustable trig in my other AR and like it better, but I prefer single stage over 2 stage

Do yall have optics on yours? If so what is usually put on them? I see alot of red-dots and low power scopes.

I just bought an iron site for mine at first.

The red dot optics are $$$ and not ready to make that investment yet.

I have a Leupold CQ/T but it is not cheap.

Wow, you weren't kidding about the not cheap. But leupold is worth it. What kinda distance do you usually shoot?

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Do yall have optics on yours? If so what is usually put on them?

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I've got a Zeiss Conquest on my RRA M4. Probably a little overkill but I like it. It's definately not for shooting up close.

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Wow, you weren't kidding about the not cheap. But leupold is worth it. What kinda distance do you usually shoot?

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Very effective from 25-200 meters. It co-witnesses so that at close range and 1x you can keep both eyes open. It is a dot scope.
The dot is 1MOA at 100m with 1x and is 3MOA on 3x.
There are cheaper similar options available but I like the leupold and it is milspec.



"Funny how justice often smells like gunsmoke." Mauser101 from arfcom

"Give me a gay republican anyday over the total dumbassery that is the Democratic party." hrcAg

[This message has been edited by deatsman (edited 12/10/2007 9:03a).]

Deats, have you messed around any with lasers on ARs? My scope goes down to 4.5x which is still a little high for closer shots.

There is a smaller outfit in Scottsdale, AZ that makes AR's that has one of the best reputations for quality and price you can find. They don't advertise much, and as such, have stayed relatively small in the grand scheme of things (I think they like where they are size-wize).

American Spirit Arms
www.asa.com (I think - you can google them)

I think their brand new entry level M4 flat top is right at $800, and their craftsmanship and quality is pretty high on the scale. You can also buy all kinds of parts and pieces from them to build your own. If my cheap ass ever decides to go the 5.56 route, they are probably who I am going to start with if I don't go with a CMMG bargain bin deal.

no lasers yet

I like the way that leupold looks deats. And it seems pretty versatile.

Now tell me this, Is it worth it to put a high powered scope on an AR? How accurate are they out at farther distances? I've shot a mini-14 alot and they weren't the most accurate so I'm wondering how an AR compares.

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How accurate are they out at farther distances?

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My RRA A4 came with a guarentee of 1 MOA groupings at 100 yards. I can attest to the fact that it's much more accurate then my ability to shoot it. Off a bench it's very accurate. I haven't had a chance to shoot it more then 100 yards yet so I can't comment beyond that.

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Is it worth it to put a high powered scope on an AR?

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I guess that depends on what you want to use it for. If you're going after varmits it may be as the higher magnification should help you with the shot. They're very popular varmit rifles and several manufactures make varmit models that are supposed to be more accurate then the standard models.

cd,
I use Larue mounts to switch between optics.
They have guaranteed return to 0 so I can go a from CQ/T to a 3-14X scope in seconds.

But offhand, I can hit pie plates at 200m with the CQ/T.

That's good to know, I didn't even think about changing optics with those mounts. How long does it take to change scopes?

[This message has been edited by cdaggie007 (edited 12/10/2007 6:07p).]

I just bought a shotgun today from a guy who sells AR15's and he claimed he has some of the lowest prices in the nation, I'm not sure if that's true or not, but it may be worth a try.

www.ar15.biz is his website.

If you were going to buy an AR and you deceided on Rock River... The month of December is to do it. They have a 10% discount on most of their models. On shelf items at stocking dealers and special orders apply. Accuracy guarantee, match Wilson barrels, two stage match triggers with a the discount should put you less than $850 for most A2 and A4 stock models. FYI

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How long does it take to change scopes?

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10 seconds

The basic rifle I'm looking at on the RRA website is $1,015 and at champion it is I think $935. But I'm looking to upgrade things such as grip, handguard, stock, and other small things which can be done when ordered off the RRA website. Does anyone know if Champion firearms in CS allows you to order a RRA rifle with custom parts at their price? Or would they just charge you what RRA would charge?

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I've shot a mini-14 alot and they weren't the most accurate so I'm wondering how an AR compares.

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AR's are WAY more accurate than mini 14s

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Does anyone know if Champion firearms in CS allows you to order a RRA rifle with custom parts at their price?

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I've order guns from them before but never a RRA. I found them easy to work with on ordering.

I know they stock a lot of assecories for ARs in their store so you could always buy one of the ARs they have on hand and then get the assecories you want. It might be cheapier then ordering it from RRA.

There are some vendors on AR15.com that I think you could do better than Champion. You will have to wait, but would have to if you ordered one custom from Champion as well.

I think "Legal Transfers" is one of the popular and less expensive ones.

Pete from Legal Transfers off of AR15.com seems to be the best place to get the RRA AR that you want for the best price. When it comes time to buy it, that's where I'm going, unless I find something better.

What's the difference in the length of the Mids and elite or tactical rifles on the RRA website? Is it just the length of the handguard? If so, what does this affect, if anything, besides look and feel of the rifle?

cdaggie,

I was trying to figure out the same thing when I bought one of the CMMG bargain bin rifles.

As far as I can tell the difference is the handguards and barrel profile.

Maybe Log or deats will clue us in.

Does the legnth of the rifle handguard have anything to do with performance? Or is it strictly just for the different looks?

Most mids are usallly 18" with a longer length gas system. Some say it is more reliable.

Log knows more about the gas systems.

Other wise it's just looks and more weight. There is some loss of velocity so accuracy will suffer at a distance but nothing to worry about it in the typical usage.

A CAR gas system is 7" long.
A MID gas system is 9" long.
A Rifle gas system is 12" long.

What this translates into is different recoil impulses. We all know that the .223/5.56 doesn't "kick" per se, but it does have a bit of recoil.

All else being equal, there is a pressure difference in the barrel from the gunpowder gas between the 7" and 12" points. Therefore you have higher gas pressure entering a 7" gas tube and lower pressure gas entering the 12" gas tube. This gas is what impinges upon the bolt carrier and cycles the action. As you can probably deduce, this higher pressure in the 7" system creates more of a recoil impulse than a 12" system. What makes it worse is that a CAR buffer is only 2.9 oz, whereas a Rifle buffer is 5.2 oz. So high pressure + light buffer = gun with a larger recoil impulse that likes to jump around more on you. My A1 rifle is ridiculously smooth comparted to my M4gery. One of the ways to remedy the recoil impulse is to use a heavier buffer. Forget about the regulating or adjustable gas blocks; these are for competition shooters or special situations. Buffers come in the standard 2.9 oz, H, H2, H3, and several varieties of 9mm buffers which are even heavier. The H designations come from the 1, 2, or 3 Tungstun weight inserts in the buffer. The extra weight causes the bolt to stay locked up longer and some more of the gas to bleed off down the barrel before the carbine begins to cycle.

Buffer Weights


Midlength systems are kind of compromise between the two others. You can get away with a shorter gas system and consequently shorter barrel, while having a more rifle like recoil impulse. The military only uses the CAR and rifle systems though; there are no MID systems in use as far as I know.

Basically it boils down to using as much weight as possible in a CAR to reduce the recoil impulse. Another way to add weight is to use a M-16 bolt carrier group, which has more mass than an AR-15 or SP-1 BCG, since the isn't as much metal milled away on the bottom. This is completely legal, and there have been several BATF Determination letters issued on the subject.

Letters:
http://home.comcast.net/~cjan99999/6520-ColtM16CarrierLetter-1a.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~cjan99999/6521-ColtM16CarrierLetter-2a.jpg

BCG's:



SP-1 "Half Circle" Carrier


Here's a detailed links on the subject of gas systems:
http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=256

There's more out there, but I haven't been able to find links.

I'm working on a 16" MID system RECCE style carbine right now. I posted some preview pics the other day. It'll be getting an H3 buffer and M-16 BCG. Should be a very smooth shooter.

[This message has been edited by Log (edited 12/12/2007 10:45p).]

Man, Log and deatsman really know their ARs!

Question: Do you guys have any tips for cleaning out the inside of the gas tube that runs from the gas block near the muzzle back to the reciever?

I can get to everything else on the gun to clean but I'm not sure how to clean the inside of this tube.

why are you cleaning the inside of your gas tube?

http://www.ar15.com/content/guides/maintenance/

[This message has been edited by deatsman (edited 12/13/2007 10:47a).]

[This message has been edited by deatsman (edited 12/13/2007 10:49a).]

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why are you cleaning the inside of your gas tube?

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deats, I figured that particulate mater could collect inside the tube and affect the performance of the system over time. Is this not correct?

Sorry, didn't mean to come off as an ass.

If you try to clean the gas tube from the receiver you will push debris into the gas hole. That is bad. The only way to really clean it is remove it. At that point, you might as well replace it.

O.K., thanks. So basically don't worry about it until the gun starts to have problems then replace it? Probably something that requires a gun smith?

Yep. Gun smith? Not really. Just some minor tools.

There are 3 small ports that exit the receiver right around where the gas tube enters. Those should be cleaned as well as the area around them on the outside at the ring that holds the hand guards on.

All they do is let gas escape the inside of the receiver. If they become clogged it can cause misfeeds.

It's also one of the favorite places for an armorer to check to see if you really cleaned a weapon or just wiped it down.