Anyone have any photography or camera questions?

416,838 Views | 3566 Replies | Last: 1 mo ago by Bregxit
Mr. Dubi
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AZAG08 said:

Looks good -- how long of an exposure did you use?
I'm going to bet 15 minutes.
MBAR
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ISO 400 f4.5 for 20 seconds on each exposure on my 24mm lens. There were 84 exposures that I stacked for the trails. After I had gotten those exposures, I did some single shots at various shutter speeds and appertures and I think it would have been much better to take twice as many frames at f 6.3 and 10 second long exposures. The foreground isn't nearly as exposed and stars are visible above but there isn't as much diffuse skylight so its a bit cleaner. I guess I could have just dropped the ISO as well and kept the 20 exposures.

dubi
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MBAR said:

ISO 400 f4.5 for 20 seconds on each exposure on my 24mm lens. There were 84 exposures that I stacked for the trails. After I had gotten those exposures, I did some single shots at various shutter speeds and appertures and I think it would have been much better to take twice as many frames at f 6.3 and 10 second long exposures. The foreground isn't nearly as exposed and stars are visible above but there isn't as much diffuse skylight so its a bit cleaner. I guess I could have just dropped the ISO as well and kept the 20 exposures.



If you go again to shoot at the Academic bldg I'd like to join you and learn.

We live less than a mile south of campus.
TexasAggie_02
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MBAR said:

ISO 400 f4.5 for 20 seconds on each exposure on my 24mm lens. There were 84 exposures that I stacked for the trails. After I had gotten those exposures, I did some single shots at various shutter speeds and appertures and I think it would have been much better to take twice as many frames at f 6.3 and 10 second long exposures. The foreground isn't nearly as exposed and stars are visible above but there isn't as much diffuse skylight so its a bit cleaner. I guess I could have just dropped the ISO as well and kept the 20 exposures.


dehaze in lightroom can help a bit with light pollution in the sky
MBAR
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dubi said:

MBAR said:

ISO 400 f4.5 for 20 seconds on each exposure on my 24mm lens. There were 84 exposures that I stacked for the trails. After I had gotten those exposures, I did some single shots at various shutter speeds and appertures and I think it would have been much better to take twice as many frames at f 6.3 and 10 second long exposures. The foreground isn't nearly as exposed and stars are visible above but there isn't as much diffuse skylight so its a bit cleaner. I guess I could have just dropped the ISO as well and kept the 20 exposures.



If you go again to shoot at the Academic bldg I'd like to join you and learn.

We live less than a mile south of campus.
Sure. I'm sure I'll go again in the relatively short term future. I'll shoot you a PM when I plan to do it.
MBAR
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TexasAggie_02 said:

MBAR said:

ISO 400 f4.5 for 20 seconds on each exposure on my 24mm lens. There were 84 exposures that I stacked for the trails. After I had gotten those exposures, I did some single shots at various shutter speeds and appertures and I think it would have been much better to take twice as many frames at f 6.3 and 10 second long exposures. The foreground isn't nearly as exposed and stars are visible above but there isn't as much diffuse skylight so its a bit cleaner. I guess I could have just dropped the ISO as well and kept the 20 exposures.


dehaze in lightroom can help a bit with light pollution in the sky
I used a viveza plugin control point in the sky and it did fairly well but I'll have to try dehaze as well next time.
MBAR
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Well, just purchased a 6d and a 17-40mm L. Can't wait to get out and do some low light and landscape shooting. Or better yet, can spring and severe storm season get here already?
FTAG 2000
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Any thoughts on Nikon D810 vs. Sony a7ii?

Obviously different systems (mirrorless for the Sony), more glass for the Nikon...
Guitarsoup
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I think a D810 replacement is coming VERY soon (prob late Feb or March), so I wouldn't buy anything just yet.

Lots easier to get lenses and accessories and repairs for Nikon.

I always advocate used lenses due to price savings. Good luck with the selection of used Sony lenses.
AZAG08
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Guitarsoup said:

I always advocate used lenses due to price savings.
Favorite place to look for used lenses?
Guitarsoup
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AZAG08 said:

Guitarsoup said:

I always advocate used lenses due to price savings.
Favorite place to look for used lenses?
www.keh.com - by far the best - based in Atlanta

http://usedphotopro.com/ - they want to be keh - based in Indianapolis

FTAG 2000
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Guitarsoup said:

I think a D810 replacement is coming VERY soon (prob late Feb or March), so I wouldn't buy anything just yet.

Lots easier to get lenses and accessories and repairs for Nikon.

I always advocate used lenses due to price savings. Good luck with the selection of used Sony lenses.
Good tip.

Will say, I have an a6000 and a couple of lenses, and love it for portability.

But also want to go full frame for a multitude of reasons. Plan to keep the a6000 and lenses, just have a full frame compliment.

bthotugigem05
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It's a very expensive complement. The Sony full frame lenses are pricey, although a few budget lenses have started to come out. I shoot with an a7rII and an a6500 with quite a few of the FE lenses.

I'm selling my 55mm f1.8 and 70-200mm f4 if anyone is interested btw.
FTAG 2000
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Agreed, very pricey!

How are you liking the R2?

Majority of my photos will be landscape, weather (lightning, tornadoes).

Have you found a good wide angle for the full frame?

Probably should ask the same question on the WA for the e-mount. I've been using my SAL1118 with the LA-EA4 adapter on the a6000, but would like to get an e-mount wide angle.

is the 55mm f1.8 you're selling a full frame or emount?
bthotugigem05
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AG 2000' said:

Agreed, very pricey!

How are you liking the R2?

Majority of my photos will be landscape, weather (lightning, tornadoes).

Have you found a good wide angle for the full frame?

Probably should ask the same question on the WA for the e-mount. I've been using my SAL1118 with the LA-EA4 adapter on the a6000, but would like to get an e-mount wide angle.

is the 55mm f1.8 you're selling a full frame or emount?
I really like the 7rII, I upgraded from the a7 and shoot mostly landscape, cityscape, and architecture. It's been really nice having more megapixels to work with but it does seem ridiculous to me at times because 95% of my images are displayed on my travel blog at 2000 pixels across.

I have the 16-35mm f4 FE (full-frame) which is a great wide angle that I've been happy with, I'm actually probably going to sell that one too actually (have some Canon tilt shifts which cover that focal length).

The 55mm f1.8 is an FE lens, one of the sharpest lenses out there. Only reason I'm looking to sell it is I have the 24-70 G Master lens which covers that focal length and can help me consolidate my gear a bit.
wee_ag
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MonkeyKnifeFighter said:

Based exclusively on GS mentioning that he doesn't have experience in astrophotography, I'll be happy to stand in and answer questions as best as I'm able.

https://instagr.am/p/BJiOnj0jut1
Hey MKF, I'm curious what camera/lens you are shooting with. I've been with my Canon 5DMKII for years and it's not quite cutting it for Astro shots given the noise level at higher ISOs.
flintdragon
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ugh, I'm having serious issues with my camera at the moment. I don't know if it is me (probably) or the camera.

This is with the 1D Mark III taking volleyball pics in a badly lit gym. In high speed mode, the exposure changes quite a bit in the same burst. dark, bright, dark, bright, etc.... I'm shooting around 1/800, 2.8 and 1600-3200 ISO.

It does the same thing on both a 50 1.4 and a 70-200 2.8.

I'm in my hotel room now taking some pics (very dark room) and it is doing the same thing.

Anyone know what's going on?
schmendeler
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Does the image info show the same data on the dark vs light photos? (Shutter speed, aperture, ISO)
flintdragon
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schmendeler said:

Does the image info show the same data on the dark vs light photos? (Shutter speed, aperture, ISO)
yes, same settings. the histogram shows pretty big differences in exposure.
schmendeler
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Well that doesn't sound good.
TexasAggie_02
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Are you 100% certain that it's not bracketing exposures?
labmansid
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Are you using any auto settings? Does it do that if everything is set manually?
Guitarsoup
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Lots of indoor places don't have. Very good lights and they more or less flicker that can change color and exposure
flintdragon
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no bracketing. using manual mode.

Just took some daylight shots and it seems ok. Maybe it is the lighting...
schmendeler
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Guitarsoup said:

Lots of indoor places don't have. Very good lights and they more or less flicker that can change color and exposure


I was coming back to suggest this. Perhaps the shutter speed was fast enough to catch the cycling of the lights.
MBAR
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flintdragon said:

no bracketing. using manual mode.

Just took some daylight shots and it seems ok. Maybe it is the lighting...
AEB can be enabled in manual mode but each image would display different exposure info as it would change something for you.
AggieDruggist89
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GS,

Do you AI-Servo focus shooting sports?

Tell us your secret on tack sharp sports focus.

You da Man!
Guitarsoup
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Always Al-Servo for Canon of AF-C for Nikon for sports.

I only switch to AF-S (Nikon) or One Shot (Canon) when shooting in extreme low light or strobed portraits or product.
AZAG08
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I keep learning more....everyone keep it coming
labmansid
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On the subject of focusing, many cameras have a feature that some people may not know about. It is commonly known as "back button focus". Using this feature, instead of the default setting where focus occurs when the shutter button is pressed, focus is shifted to a button on the back of the camera using the shooter's thumb. That way, focus can be set and not changed when the shutter button is pressed. It is great for recomposing the shot so the main subject is offset from center but still remains in focus when the shutter is tripped.
flintdragon
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crud, I think the issue I'm having with exposure from shot to shot is the shutter. Finally got a chance to play with it and any shutter speed greater than 1/125 I start seeing variation in exposure.

What's the best way to test the shutter?
schmendeler
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flintdragon said:

crud, I think the issue I'm having with exposure from shot to shot is the shutter. Finally got a chance to play with it and any shutter speed greater than 1/125 I start seeing variation in exposure.

What's the best way to test the shutter?


Do you get the same problem outside? If not, then it's probably the lights flickering.
TexasAggie_02
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flintdragon said:

crud, I think the issue I'm having with exposure from shot to shot is the shutter. Finally got a chance to play with it and any shutter speed greater than 1/125 I start seeing variation in exposure.

What's the best way to test the shutter?


Stupid question, but are you using flash while testing? If so, then you are probably taking pictures faster than the capacitor can recharge, therefore some frames will not have flash bc it didn't go off.

Could also be lights flickering. Does it only Happen indoors, or can you repeat it in daylight?
flintdragon
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No flash. I reset all settings too just in case I had configured something wrong. I'll do some outside pics today.

It still could have been the halide lighting in the gym and the LED lights in my house that is causing it but I've never seen this before.

Some of the shots go from well exposed to as if someone fired a flash right at the same time. I'll try to get some pics posted.
MonkeyKnifeFighter
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