So I have a 48" Dacor range with two ovens. Smaller has a heating element and the larger uses some sort of high powered element under a glass plate.

So a few weeks ago after going through the tedious oven cleaning process I decided to put in some oven liners.

The one on the large oven melted and fused onto the glass!
I called Dacor and they said they don't recommend those, just use a pan. So $200 later I have replaced the glass. And I just put in an aluminum pan from a restaurant supply.

Do you see it coming?

Yep! MELTED the aluminum pan! Aluminum melts at 1200F!

Better, the aluminum has fused to the bottom and the pan won't come out. So instead of replacing the glass, it looks like the entire thing will have to be replaced.

I'm still in shock....I'll be talking to Dacor but I don't have any hope of this working out for me.

So...what brands should I be looking at when I need a new one?

This looks more like your style

Thanks...

After cooling the glass shattered so at least the pan came out. I may be able to just replace the glass again...

wow.

Sorry dude, that's a huge bummer. What a pain.

So the pan was above the heating element?

I've never seen a Dacor, but we have an inexpensive toaster oven that has a pan to catch the crumbs at the office. The cleaning lady can't seem to understand that the pan has to go under the bottom heating element, not above. When she cleans the toaster oven and puts the pan back above the heating element, it doesn't do well at all.

The heating element is under a glass rectangle which is flush with the bottom of the oven. There is one on the ceiling for the broiler. It's crazy to me that they don't put a label on the bottom of the oven telling you not to cover it.

Putting something on the bottom of the oven - liner, foil, pan - is super common.

There is a line in the UG warning against it, but for something this catastrophic they need to make sure anyone who opens the door knows.

I assumed when the liner melted that the element just got hotter than the liner is rated. Never in a million years did I think it could MELT a 1200F aluminum pan.

Maybe this will help someone else...

How hard is it to run a self cleaning cycle every now and a again?

A few spills between cleanings looks a lot classier than any liner.

It's 3+ hrs for each oven and you basically have to leave the house due to the odors.

Was trying to avoid and made a costly mistake. Twice.

After cleanup I think I'm just gonna be out another piece of glass and the piece that secures it to the bottom.

This time last night I was browsing for new ranges and pretty pissed.

Hope you're not paying secondary for those parts. #neverpaysecondary

It looks like you had a flounder disaster.

Sazerac said:

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It's 3+ hrs for each oven and you basically have to leave the house due to the odors.

Was trying to avoid and made a costly mistake. Twice.

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how much stuff are you spilling all over your oven?

What are you cooking at 1200 degrees ?

I'm not. Oven was set to 425

By having a pan on top of the bake glass it somehow got to over 1200F and melted.

To top it off Dacor has been purchased by Samsung so all parts are special order and many are being replaced with Samsung part numbers. No idea when I'll actually get replacement parts...

Samsung needs to stick to phones if what I've heard about their fridges is an indication

Imagine what a cast iron pan and steak would have done.......

agree on Samsung refrigerators....well, not the frig but their ice makers are worthless.....just had a 3rd one put in my 5 year old frig....they said they had redesigned it and this one should work. guess I will find out...
Have over $600 on replacing the icemakers....on top of original purchase price of $3300 . Would never buy again. And I let them know that too.

The pan looks pretty cool. Have you thought of hanging it on your wall as modern art?

Well, the glass finally came in so I could repair.

Now let me vent on the latest disaster Dacor has brought upon me.

One of the two bulbs in the vent hood started to go out. I could not figure out how to get the bulb out.
Online manual says just use the provided suction cup. Cool.
1. don't have the suction cup
2. neither of the bulbs has a glass covering. It's just the housing with what looks like a G4 two prong bulb as a filament.

Thought maybe the house stayed and just the bulb would pop out. Nope.
I tried everything to create some leverage to unscrew this thing. My next step was to drill two holes in the bulb so I could get a pair of pliers embedded and twist.
But before I did that I wanted to see if I could remove anything to get access further up the neck to be able to turn.

I removed the filter section, and that gave me some access, but not much. Could awkwardly get a thumb and finger on the neck but it wasn't budging. Couldn't get any sort of tool in there to lock on and twist, just wasn't room.

So my next great idea - ha - was that maybe the vent hood panel / trim pieces would come off and give me access. So I undid the 8 little screw caps, thinking this was just a panel that would come off.

Nope! This was basically keeping everything - frame, filters, bulbs, switches, vent box - connected to the outer hood. So the entire guts of the operation basically dropped down. The inner assembly was (emphasis on was) screwed and taped to a custom vent box which then transitions to a round vent that connects to a similar round vent to go out the wall. This is basically all pulled out of place. No longer an airtight connection and the vent is pulled out of the wall.

Oh, it gets better. This is just a vent hood. All of the vent surround is completely custom, built up around the vent frame. The best I can tell this vent must have been installed 100% first, with a custom frame then built around, and then sheetrock on top. It looks nice, but there is no room to take the inner assembly, with vent box attached, and transition to round vent and get it back up into place.

It appears that I'm going to have to cut into the vent hood, reinstall from above then patch and paint!

So in the interim I had to just push the components back up into the hole and screw things all down again.

I finally was able to get the one bulb to budge just using my awkward finger and thumb grip. Great, I'll change the bulb. Replacement bulbs are $60 each! So I get a $12 for 2 LED version on Amazon that says it will work. Not exactly, the bulb is slightly too wide or not quite long enough to overcome this trim piece they include. Removing the trim piece - which obviously doesn't look as nice - does work.

So I now have one janky looking bulb, and the other bulb is impossible to remove. Will not budge, and has no glass to use a suction cup tool that I do not have. And I likely have to cut into and repair the vent hood.

All over changing a light bulb!

Couple visuals for you

Have you considered giving a 10 year old boy an 8 pound sledge and letting him fix the issue

Icecream_Ag said:

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Have you considered giving a 10 year old boy an 8 pound sledge and letting him fix the issue

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Never underestimate the power of a properly motivated 10-12 year old boy armed with a shop full of tools for many projects.

I can have 6' t-posts driven in mere minutes for a few dollars. Using my self made t post drivers. They are 10 and 12 year olds.

Add them drip pan after the oven is preheated. I assume the heating element gets super hot to get the oven up to temp quicker.

Find a suction cup for the light our try press your palm, or a few fingers, up against it and twist. It isn't the funnest thing to do but I've managed to change a couple where the suction cup wasn't available.

peace said:

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agree on Samsung refrigerators....well, not the frig but their ice makers are worthless.....just had a 3rd one put in my 5 year old frig....they said they had redesigned it and this one should work. guess I will find out...
Have over $600 on replacing the icemakers....on top of original purchase price of $3300 . Would never buy again. And I let them know that too.

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I too am a victim of the scourge of Samsung ice no-makers. It's a solid brick.

Tell me more about this wonderall replacement! I'm still under warranty.

I have a Fulgor Milano range. 14,000 BTU burners. The oven, also gas, pre-heats above temp setting. When you open the oven door to insert food, it drops to setting temp.

A little weird to get used to, but we like it.

And I will tell you that many ovens fail during the clean cycle. It gets so hot that the door seal often fails. This leads to heat leakage that can warp the oven door or ruin any controls above the door. Our Fulgor Milano doesn't have a clean cycle, and I am fine with that.

Sazerac said:

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Couple visuals for you

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Beautiful vent cover and herrigbone backsplash.

Does the heating element span the whole bottom? Maybe you could just get something to shim it up off of the element and give it an air gap to prevent it from getting so hot.

I'm not doing a damn thing to this oven for the rest of ever

I feel your pain on the dacor vent hood. I had the exact same problem replacing bulbs. Grease some how gets into the threads and gums it up enough to keep the lights from unscrewing easily. I did not get a suction tool either. Only thing I could do is push up really hard with thumb and forefinger while rotating your hand counter clockwise to eventually loosen. Replaced with a ge led light that fits the space well. Model LED6DP16AG

Your story reminded me of an experience many years ago when I was younger & dumber, lol. Our wall-oven incandescent bulb burned out. A few months later, I bought a new bulb to replace it. Should have been (I expected it to be) a trivial job.

I attempted to unscrew the old bulb, but that resulted in the glass separating from the bulb base. The bulb base was stuck in the socket.

I tried to use needle-nose pliers to remove the bulb base, but I ended up mangling the bulb base to such an extent that I couldn't unscrew it from the socket.

To get better access to the bulb socket, I had to pull the oven.

First step was to kill the power. No prob, I flipped the garage circuit breaker and confirmed that the oven's panel had no power.

Pulled the oven out of the cabinet.

Pulled the electric wires leading to the oven.

I used pliers/etc to get better access to the ceramic bulb socket (to remove the old/broken bulb base). It was tedious but I got it done. Turned out that the ceramic bulb socket had a slight defect (a protrusion) such that it wasn't exactly circular; that protrusion was why the bulb didn't unscrew.

Reattached the bulb socket assembly and screwed in a new bulb.

As I was about to reattach the electric wires, I jostled one of the wires and its end touched a sheet-metal enclosure around the oven and created sparks. !!!!

Turned out that I had been unaware and had not known/realized that there was a 220V power to the oven, controlled by the main breaker on the other side of the house.

Sort of just dumb luck that I didn't electrocute myself that day as I was about to re-attach the electric wires that I thought were dead.

ETA: From that point forward, I do very little with either electricity or gas.

Good for you that you're a do-it-yourselfer. Service tech would have been very expensive.

I had to break the bulb fixture to get it out, but I did accomplish that last night.

Still going to take one more shot with another pair of hands to see if I can get the vent pieced back together but I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to cut a panel into the hood.