Building a barndo (about 3,000 sqft of living, 2.5 bath + lots of shop area = about 6,000sqft total).

Slab is not yet poured (working on foundation framing, will pour next week).

100ft from well house to barndo + another 100ft to far side of building.

Well house/pump currently puts out at least 8gpm and has 3/4" fittings but will be upgraded someday.

Plumber did the following:
- Used 3/4" ball valve from well tank to main line.
- Main line 1" that runs almost 200ft.
- Then branch lines are 1/2" under the foundation (inside of 3/4" sleeves).

We think this is too small, especially the distance and are requesting he redo. I'd think a 1.5" main and 3/4" branch lines at minimum, with 1/2" only at certain fixtures.

Also, since the foundation work (digging footings and beams) has already begun, he said he would wait and run new larger lines in the footings instead of digging the smaller ones up and relaying. According to web search, this would be out of code (though we are in the country so would not be inspected).

PS - he also tied into the well house about 16" away from the wall, which seems lazy and more freeze prone, in addition to using a little 3/4" ball valve instead of a 1" or larger valve.

Do we need a different plumber or is this kind of work acceptable?

Thanks

I am used to PVC for Irrigation but...
The max flow through 3/4" is 8 gpm. Flow is different than Pressure.
A 1" mainline should be plenty for that.
The tie where it is, isn't a thing to me but you are the one having to live with it.
Seems like he had 3/4" pex parts and just used what he had. Down sizing for the ball valve won't cause too much friction loss in pressure.
Seems like common downsizing of pipe sizes.
I bet you could find a flow chart for PEX piping. Maybe ZURN?

We do spec 3/4" supply to all bath fixture groups that then get fed 1/2" ... but seldom get it.

Betting the 1" main supply is good enough for that distance if 1.25" supply solved a 150yd run problem that initailly was only 3/4", resulting in shower heads spitting, drooling.

Eventually rural water supply upgraded the main drag supply up to 2" (from what IDK) ~0.3mi away, thereafter a garden hose could shoot water over the house.

Avoiding CODE compliance nuances, most structural engineers will accept penetrations, even runs of voids/pipes in their grade beams ... so long as they appear in the "zero moment" areas aka dead center. If in structural doubt, then steel reinforce pipe centered outlets against cracking with at least wire mesh 3" conc protected from moisture OR galv.steel.

I don't need to address freeze proofing pipes as pictured when Amazon and farm gurus on this forum can wax eloquent on the subject. Might leave this sleeping dog lie and complement the ease of accessibility.

Am NOT a plumber