Recently bought a house that had no noticeable issues with doors, suddenly and only a few months later, both exterior doors are almost impossible to lock with a key. It's my first time in a pier and beam house, not sure if this is more common of an issue when not on a slab. Is this pretty normal in anyone's experience?
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Problems with Exterior Doors
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Last: 1 yr ago by Gary79Ag
Here are my thoughts based on the info provided:500,000ags said:
Recently bought a house that had no noticeable issues with doors, suddenly and only a few months later, both exterior doors are almost impossible to lock with a key. It's my first time in a pier and beam house, not sure if this is more common of an issue when not on a slab. Is this pretty normal in anyone's experience?
You might have bought (and inspected) this home when the soil conditions were just right… and now with a little summer time drying out things have settled causing the door problems. Here's the top 3 signs of settlement explained and things to watch for in your home.
I dislike the term normal settlement… and prefer to use seasonal settlement as it describes the back and forth (up & down) movement of many homes based on rain and expansive clay soil.
You haven't been in the home long enough to establish any history to then figure out what is "normal" and what is excessive. I usually recommend at least a full year in a home before making big $$ foundation decisions. Here's a list of the top reasons to wait.
P&B homes can be more susceptible to movement because they are lighter weight than slab on grade home. That doesn't mean you should just put up with exterior door issues, so keep an eye on things and be proactive.
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Check the screws in the hinges.
I did check and none are loose.
P&B homes are more picky about moisture consistency especially if in a high clay environment
Has it rained recently ?
Or has it been really dry for a while ?
Are you doing any yard watering ?
Are there soaker hoses around the perimeter of the house ?
Has it rained recently ?
Or has it been really dry for a while ?
Are you doing any yard watering ?
Are there soaker hoses around the perimeter of the house ?
JP76 said:
P&B homes are more picky about moisture consistency especially if in a high clay environment
Has it rained recently ?
Or has it been really dry for a while ? Central Texas, so dry and hot.
Are you doing any yard watering ? I am.
Are there soaker hoses around the perimeter of the house ? There are not. The house has a good swale and water runs off pretty well.
The screws don't necessarily have to be loose. My front door needs 'adjustment' a couple times a year to keep it working normally. Even just tightening a couple hinge screws a quarter turn each makes a huge difference in how easily the door closes/opens and locks.
I assume you're talking about moving a deadbolt with the key. The bolt is rubbing against the strike plate on the jamb. Adjust the strike plate and/or coat the bolt with graphite. Also a good idea to squirt graphite into the key hole.
Humidity is my guess. Are the doors wooden?
I just spent about 15 mins adjusting the hinges on both doors and both are aligning the deadbolt much better. You can actually lock them with a key. Which is awesome.
One will have to have a modification on the strike plate because the door knob doesn't catch, even with the deadbolt alignment much better. The other, although the deadbolt is aligning better, there is still an awkward friction from the door slightly rubbing.
One will have to have a modification on the strike plate because the door knob doesn't catch, even with the deadbolt alignment much better. The other, although the deadbolt is aligning better, there is still an awkward friction from the door slightly rubbing.
Can u post a picture of the doors and the current door reveals?
Where is it dragging ?
Where is it dragging ?
I've learned a trick years ago that I use as needed and highly recommend to others with minor door locking issues.
The hinges are typically mounted to the door frame only with 3/4" to 1" long screws that only go into the door frame itself. It's usually 3 - 4 screws that don't provide much adjustment.
I remove one of the screws from each of the hinges and replace with a 3-4" long screws that go into the rough opening studs behind the door frame. Then I tighten them accordingly to tweak the door as required to plum it up with the frame opening to better align the door latches.
As things change due to shifting, I just re-tweak the long screws to accommodate the shifting. Beats the heck out of trimming the actually door, etc..
This tweak method might help you as well...
The hinges are typically mounted to the door frame only with 3/4" to 1" long screws that only go into the door frame itself. It's usually 3 - 4 screws that don't provide much adjustment.
I remove one of the screws from each of the hinges and replace with a 3-4" long screws that go into the rough opening studs behind the door frame. Then I tighten them accordingly to tweak the door as required to plum it up with the frame opening to better align the door latches.
As things change due to shifting, I just re-tweak the long screws to accommodate the shifting. Beats the heck out of trimming the actually door, etc..
This tweak method might help you as well...
aka The Legendary *******!!!
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