Hot water issue

3,140 Views | 44 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by jt2hunt
DallasAggie89
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Master bathroom.

2 sinks, garden tub and separate shower. Garden tub no longer gets hot water, has been this way for about a year.

All other fixtures hot water works fine.

House built in 2014, we are the original owners.

I've looked under the vanities for a mixing valve, nothing there.

Garden tub is enclosed with tile with no access panel. We do not have any extra tile so I'm reluctant to break some of the tile to see if there is a mixing valve as I will struggle to find anything that matches.

I have had a plumber look. He replaced the cartridges on the tub faucet but that did not help.

Any ideas or am I at a point that I have to remove the tile?

jt2hunt
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You have had no plumbing work done from the time it used to get hot water until it did not? Anything done after the big freeze?
DallasAggie89
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jt2hunt said:

You have had no plumbing work done from the time it used to get hot water until it did not? Anything done after the big freeze?


Had a patio hose bib replaced that froze but no other plumbing work done.
Picard
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There's a mixing valve somewhere. Post a picture please. It may be possible to lift the tub out without breaking any tile.

But the plumber should've known that if so.
DallasAggie89
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Picard
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Yeah there's a good chance your mixing valve is inside that tub decking. Given it's in the middle of the floor and connected to the shower, I bet the builder's plumber just tapped off the shower hot and cold to get water to the tub vs. running additional lines from elsewhere. Therefore the mixing valve had to go between the shower and the tub. And the framers and tile guys said "lol, not my problem".

1.) Disconnect the tub faucet. Should be an allen key bolt at the base you have to remove.
2.) Unscrew the overflow drain cover and unbolt the tub from the drain pipe there
3.) Remove the tub stopper from the drain and unbolt the tub from the bottom drain.
4.) Tub should be loose now but held in by the ring of caulk around the rim. Remove that caulk. If they used grout instead of caulk, add extra cuss words.
5.) Lift the tub straight up with help and then pray a mixing valve is in there.

If there's not a mixing valve in there you're going to be really pissed at me at that point. My apologies At least you can then check to see if hot water is making it to that point.

jt2hunt
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If the hot at garden tub is left on for ten minutes there is no change in temp?
DallasAggie89
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jt2hunt said:

If the hot at garden tub is left on for ten minutes there is no change in temp?


Just ran the hot only for 10 minutes - no hot water. Tankless hot water heater was running the entire time.
jt2hunt
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Wow
So the tankless was producing hot water and running the whole ten minutes?
No other valves were open?
Yet no temp change.
If the tankless never turned on then I would say a line was crossed.
Have you replaced any cartridges in nearby fixtures since it stopped working?
DallasAggie89
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jt2hunt said:

Wow
So the tankless was producing hot water and running the whole ten minutes?
No other valves were open?
Yet no temp change.
If the tankless never turned on then I would say a line was crossed.
Have you replaced any cartridges in nearby fixtures since it stopped working?



Tankless ran the entire time, no other valves were open.

I replaced the cartridge in the shower to see if that would have any affect but nothing changed.
DallasAggie89
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Picard said:


4.) Tub should be loose now but held in by the ring of caulk around the rim. Remove that caulk. If they used grout instead of caulk, add extra cuss words.





Just looked, it's grout
jt2hunt
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This is a another dumb question but did you run the cold side to see if they were reversed.

I know this would not make sense because you indicated the tankless was on with the hot valve open and not other fixtures I. The home were on.

Sounds so much like a cartridge issue.
DallasAggie89
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jt2hunt said:

This is a another dumb question but did you run the cold side to see if they were reversed.

I know this would not make sense because you indicated the tankless was on with the hot valve open and not other fixtures I. The home were on.

Sounds so much like a cartridge issue.


I have done that with no luck.

I have changed both cartridges, no luck. I then swapped the cartridges in case one was bad and that didn't change anything.
tgivaughn
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What I would do after reading all that
1) insist on an older, Master Plumber only
2) cross your fingers and you both check the attic for a mix.valve gone bad ... then maybe MP has other places to look

Let us know the answer, inquiring minds need to know
IMHO and am sticking to it
jt2hunt
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Is hat to be a cartridge or mixing valve under tub or in attic
BenTheGoodAg
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Can you close the shut-off valve to your tankless unit and see if water will still flow with the hot valve on only? Even though the tankless is running, it may not be supplying all the demand at that valve.

It is really perplexing, especially having separate hot/cold valve handles. Typically these are mixed in a simple tee. I wonder if there is a thermostatic mixing valve supplying the tub's hot water valve?
jt2hunt
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This is what I am thinking as well. Some mixing valve that has mineral build up on the hot side.
BenTheGoodAg
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Right. And if so, could you try flushing the line with vinegar and let it sit overnight before ripping a tub or tile out?
jt2hunt
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Any update on resolution?
DallasAggie89
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I have a plumber coming out February 3rd. Stay tuned.
RC_57
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You may end up having to "rip the band aid off" (put in an access panel)

Oh well, you'll have one for the next time.
DallasAggie89
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FIXED!!

Turns out there was a mixing valve under the bathtub.

Even better, when the plumber was running his pocket knife around the grout lines of the tile he found a piece that was secured with caulking versus grout. It was held on with magnets on the back side.

I never realized this as the caulk and grout matched perfectly.

He swapped the mixing valve and hot water is back.

My wife will be happy again (at least temporarily).

Chipotlemonger
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Awesome!
jt2hunt
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Hell yes!
BenTheGoodAg
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Awesome! That's got to be a relief.
DallasAggie89
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BenTheGoodAg said:

Awesome! That's got to be a relief.


Absolutely!
tgivaughn
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Indeed and not even a Master Plumber
Kudos
CODE should be CHANGED to force a plumbing access door for these b/c of SO many problems
IMHO and am sticking to it
jt2hunt
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Technically they should be accessible per code.
Belton Ag
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jt2hunt said:

Technically they should be accessible per code.
Builder most likely caulked that tile after the plumbing final.
tgivaughn
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A good plumber does caulk a panel to serve as an access panel for self as well as Owner when the IRC does not require a regulation/any access panel to such as this. Kudos to the plumber. Would be nice to have a tile etched as "PA" for Owner ID.
IMHO and am sticking to it
jt2hunt
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I thought valves had to be accessible. And this is considered a valve according to the IRC
Matsui
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That's amazing!
Picard
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Great news!

tgivaughn
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Indeed some IQ finally sunk through those daddy brain CODE makers that intend to protect us idiots.
The change does not affect everyplace yet, until they adopt the newest IRC
https://www.phcppros.com/articles/11128-ipc-code-changes-part-4

So, a Master Plumber uses caulk for high-IQ, no IRC aesthetics until IRC wakes up ... SOP, always been.

Aside: so what is the IQ of Texas Lawmakers when they find no need for a plumber to be licensed to protect the Texas public? Asking for a friend....
Remembering in-the-day-recently, Texas law was to license homebuilders, then QUIT all that in favor of fingerprinting all architects ... that have no access to stealing building materials ... etc.
IMHO and am sticking to it
Scriffer
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Bumping this because I've been following with a similar issue. I've got a normal two handle price pfister shower in my master bath, and it sometimes won't get hot at all. If I run hot water from the sink, it'll usually get there, but it's very inconsistent.

I bought a water pressure gauge, and I'm at 65psi both at the master shower head and at a guest shower that will put on a good scald with the hot water. Guest bath is between the heater and the master.

The house was built in 1984, and I don't see anywhere in my Googling that these have mixing valves. Here's the closest match I could find in the Pfister website:
https://www.pfisterfaucets.com/bathroom/product/pfister-007-31-2-handle-shower-only-rough-in-valve?modelNumber=007-31XA

Any thoughts?
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