After some recent heavy rains, I noticed what appears to be some minor water damage around one of our living room windows. Our house is now ~18 years old, and everything is builder grade so I assume the windows are equally cheap. The internal caulking should probably be replaced regardless, but I don't know if the windows/exterior seals could be near end of life. I am out of my league here, but I would imagine the most thorough fix could involve replacing the window and sill, ripping out the small section of ruined drywall, and inspecting the framing for long-term water damage. At a minimum, we will need to redo a small section of drywall, texture/paint, and reseal the windows. Another problem is that the lintels have obvious rust issues so I'm wondering if they might be compromised or were installed incorrectly with the flashing.

We are considering moving in the next year or two, so would prefer to avoid any huge capital outlays unless really necessary for structural integrity of the home. One complication is that we live in a 3-story townhouse so any access to the exterior will require a serious ladder/anchoring setup or scaffolding which I assume equates to $$$.

All that being said, my main questions are:

1. Who would you hire to do this type of work and would you trust them to give you a true opinion of what is needed? Given the possibility of multiple disciplines/crafts, does a GC make the most sense? Could a window shop also handle the sill repair, drywall, and painting if the framing is fine? I assume it is too much to ask of a handyman, unless it just involves painting, caulking, and applying rust converter to the outside.
2. What range of costs should I prepare for assuming the best or worst case scenario?

I'm also concerned about whether this is a 1-2 window problem, or a 15 window problem, but I assume that determination can be made once the root cause is better understood.

Appreciate any and all feedback! I can try to upload pics later tonight if that would be helpful.

"A picture is worth a thousand words", so please post
to avoid "blind" opinions.

A true reseal will require pretty much the same thing as if you were replacing the window. Brick/siding around it needs to be removed, all flashing and seals around window fixed/replaced and then brick/siding put back. Replacement will add a little more to fix the internal drywall/caulk/paint but thats very minor in the overall cost.

Also, if the problem is the window frame cracked and thats where the leak is, then full replacement is best. Just caulking the frame crack is a bandaid waiting to fail again.

If as you say you will move soon and want to pass a replacement on, the just try a full recaulk around the exterior of the windows and interior window frame joints. That should limp you along.

These pictures might only be worth a hundred words as it's hard to capture, but here you go: https://imgur.com/a/6p1kcGH

In person, the discoloration and paint peeling is more obvious.

Indeed this helps, even if only a "100 words"
some of the blindfold comes off and guessing is improved.


Until more in depth photos or digging into the problem areas is revealed.
I'll give my take below but hopefully another will have recently solved this exact
same problem to give you a better answer.


https://www.gobrick.com/docs/default-source/read-research-documents/technicalnotes/tn-28a-2020-03.pdf?sfvrsn=2
may serve you and from it I direct your attention to top of page 8 for some of
their sections/details to serve here.


Since you are only living there 1-2 years more
and assuming you did not have control over the construction/design of this
problem, I really must lean toward DIY or professional patching.
It will then be the next Owner's judgment as to the more proper solutions
which may vary from replacement SOP or opportunity to install windows more
fabulous that makes them love this abode more. You cannot know, then choose
all this = potential money down the drain.
Caveats: potential buyers may shy away from buying into a window fix-me-up
and of course may ask for money to fix them, deducted from selling price.
(You may be renting, making all the above moot)


The DIY patch can be as simple as lifetime/50 year silicon caulk/sealant that is
then forced into the voids that are allowing rainfall to invade spaces, where
original construction barriers either failed or were omitted.


These voids are best sealed from the outside but if scaffolding or man-lift is required,
leave this for the pros that own (not rent) such equipment.


From the inside, the DIYer is faced with cutting into at least the header, top of
window to get at the majority of this invasion space, to seal it off, no matter
how many tubes of caulk required. Even better would be to cut into the
jambs/sides where it has been running down the inside wall layers UGH. Then
patch & paint after any mildew/mold killers have dried.


The metal angle iron exterior header holding up the brick is rusting from either
improper prime/painting or lack of maintenance since paint doesn't last forever,
perhaps 7 years in such a spot. If DIY inaccessible, then consider it only a seller's blemish (same as your neighbors), & very doubtful a structure issue. Something for others to address when they replace the window someday.

Are those aluminum windows? If so it's probably condensation causing the issues and not an actual leak.

That would be wonderful and some close up & more pics might help determine that.

Also a report on any driving rain that produced leaks - or not - could be evidence.

e.g. hospital & church windows past witnessed appeared similar but a driving rain's damage swayed the owners to replace ...

Quite a mystery thus far, we are still offering guesses

There were heavy rains here recently, yes. Are aluminum windows very cheap? If so, that's probably what these are.

If my aluminum frame residential windows have lasted 42 w/o leaks, then I vote ... not cheap in the sense of substandard but indeed not over priced ala wood frame (alum.clad or not).

Sooo if heavy DRIVING rains did not evidence themselves either via gaps or condensate on the metal (if conditions a good for such), then perhaps IF any leaks, they are unseen, slow ones that soak to the inside

With 2 years to go and no other evidence, I am prone to DIY sealing as best you can from inside.

Additional DIY
Scrape off offending/damaged paper (or more) gyp.bd, then plaster repair after sealing

Extreme DIY
If not mentioned prior, you could carefully cut out damaged gyp.bd flanking this window frame and replace it with a waterproof or water-sealed material
WP Gyp.bd
Eng. flooring
Vinyl plank
Hardwood trim board
Hardie-Trim

More to read here
https://www.google.com/search?q=heavy+vs+%22driving+rain%22+leaking+windows&newwindow=1&rlz=1C1GGGE___US945US945&sxsrf=ALiCzsarWD_SFa06FcLcjQ9YdLpowvWV0g%3A1662136133531&ei=RS8SY_f7H5efqtsPme2VwAo&ved=0ahUKEwi3srrOw_b5AhWXj2oFHZl2BagQ4dUDCA4&uact=5&oq=heavy+vs+%22driving+rain%22+leaking+windows&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEKIEMgUIABCiBDIFCAAQogQ6CggAEEcQ1gQQsAM6BQghEKABOgUIIRCrAjoICCEQHhAWEB06CgghEB4QDxAWEB1KBAhBGABKBAhGGABQ6QZYlh1g2SBoAXABeACAAdMCiAGGJZIBBjItMTIuNJgBAKABAcgBCLgBA8ABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz

If you're only going to be there another year or two, just patch any damage, paint it, and reseal as needed. Replacing windows is a pain in the ass and not worth it for a couple years. Just make it look good and save the money to spend on the next house.

Location? Maybe I missed it in all the words.